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Rescuing the Build from Hell - bore crack?

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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by billla
Yes; it is on the exterior (vs. cam valley) side of the block.
I had something similar on a 350 motor from a junkyard, it also sat in my garage for a year before being torn down. Whatever fluid that was in the cylinder when to the low side. It did clean up with a .030 bore. It was basically around the same spot, which was where the top of the piston was at rest.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 01:50 PM
  #22  
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Junkyard motors are scary they sit around in every possible position and get rained in and on and then winter comes along and freezes them.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I said that "a good welder/machinist could save the block." What I didn't say [and should have] is that 'metal stitching' would be the best option to use.
Originally Posted by billla
To my knowledge, this is not a possible repair method for a cylinder bore.
The ONLY way is with a sleeve.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Junkyard motors are scary they sit around in every possible position and get rained in and on and then winter comes along and freezes them.
The point was very simple, the engine had been sitting around and its history was unknown. The engine came from a private junkyard; the hood was on it as well as the air cleaner. Being a freebee, the price was right for a seasoned 71 350. Besides, engines don't really scare me.

The post was just to inform billa that I had something similar that went perpendicular to the bore and provide an explanation for how it got there on my block.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Project80
The point was very simple, the engine had been sitting around and its history was unknown. The engine came from a private junkyard; the hood was on it as well as the air cleaner. Being a freebee, the price was right for a seasoned 71 350. Besides, engines don't really scare me.

The post was just to inform billa that I had something similar that went perpendicular to the bore and provide an explanation for how it got there on my block.
My comment was not directed at your post or your motor specifically . It was a general comment about how motors in junkyards are treated and you just don't know what your going to get until the engine goes through a process and even then you sometimes don't find the flaws until after you have put in a bunch of money.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I said that "a good welder/machinist could save the block." What I didn't say [and should have] is that 'metal stitching' would be the best option to use.
That's a really scarey thought.


Originally Posted by billla
What a sweet guy. This isn't my engine - it was won by a guy in a raffle for the Ronald McDonald House Charities. I'll pass on your sentiment to all those kids with scars on their heads and tubes up their noses the next time I'm there volunteering
I'm sure there is no crack there.

I would find out from the Ronald House, who the builder, machine shop, shadetree was that put the engine together like this was, so that I was sure never to let them touch anything.
It should have been bored etc.

How much does the winning bidder have in this. Ronald house already got their money, right?
Besides overheating, were there any other problems such as burning
oil etc?
I would be tempted to just use it as is, otherwise your looking at least boring this one jug etc.

BTW, we do a lot with our local Ronald house too. Wife has the plaques of recognition hanging on a wall. It's a pretty good cause.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by noonie
How much does the winning bidder have in this. Ronald house already got their money, right?

BTW, we do a lot with our local Ronald house too. Wife has the plaques of recognition hanging on a wall. It's a pretty good cause.
The House already has their money - bottom line is that I'm going to make it right for this guy regardless of out-of-pocket for me. It's one of those deals where no one wants to take ownership - so I will

It's a great cause, if kinda tough sometimes. Brave kids, brave parents. My wife does the dinner supervision there every Sunday, when organizations come in to make a hot meal. I do that with her sometimes, and we're always there for Thanksgiving and Christmas when it's impossible to get volunteers. And I end up being the "go to" guy every once and a while when something off-the-wall comes up
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
It was a general comment about how motors in junkyards are treated and you just don't know what your going to get until the engine goes through a process and even then you sometimes don't find the flaws until after you have put in a bunch of money.
I won't buy GEN I pre-86 cores any more as they're junk 4 out of 5 times. Even the ones that look wet can be junk from many overhauls, etc. I'll take 'em if they come to me - but my days of paying even $50 is over.

Pretty much just 86-up roller-cam blocks any more. They're generally first-run, the bores are usually just about perfect and of course you get an easy roller-cam installation - usually even the lifters are OK if the engine is tight and wet.

My shop is pretty cool - flat $75 for the hot tank, 'flux, pressure check and general inspection
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by billla
I won't buy GEN I pre-86 cores any more as they're junk 4 out of 5 times. Even the ones that look wet can be junk from many overhauls, etc. I'll take 'em if they come to me - but my days of paying even $50 is over.

Pretty much just 86-up roller-cam blocks any more. They're generally first-run, the bores are usually just about perfect and of course you get an easy roller-cam installation - usually even the lifters are OK if the engine is tight and wet.

My shop is pretty cool - flat $75 for the hot tank, 'flux, pressure check and general inspection
Guys, I am not pushing junkyard motors. I put a 71 motor in a 71 Camaro SS before they were known as "GEN I" blocks.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 04:31 PM
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My take on those pics is leftover ridge from the previous bore. Unfortunately not all shops think like mechanics... this is an example of "good enough for who it's for" work. I suspect if you were to mike all these bores you would also find taper and ovality not removed as well, and they are all likely at the ragged outside edge of spec.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by markids77
My take on those pics is leftover ridge from the previous bore.
Not possible, since any "ridge" would be at the top of the bore within about .025 of the top
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 05:27 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by markids77
My take on those pics is leftover ridge from the previous bore. Unfortunately not all shops think like mechanics... this is an example of "good enough for who it's for" work. I suspect if you were to mike all these bores you would also find taper and ovality not removed as well, and they are all likely at the ragged outside edge of spec.
Originally Posted by billla
Not possible, since any "ridge" would be at the top of the bore within about .025 of the top
clearly the part line atop the cylinder appears to be an over zealous use of a ridge reamer.....the pic makes it appear if it actually tapers out....markids made a great call assuming the lighting in the pic is not giving us a misread....i have seen many of those stains in question over the years and usually boring takes them out but honing will not....this is of course after a pressure check.....the stain occours after coolant sits there for quite awhile....i would be more concerned about the taper and the too deep ridge reaming.....without actually seeing the real deal it's tough to say with any certainty .....btw..the ridge is definately deeper than.025, they are generally 1/4 to 3/8" depending on the piston model.....
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 06:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
clearly the part line atop the cylinder appears to be an over zealous use of a ridge reamer

the ridge is definately deeper than.025, they are generally 1/4 to 3/8" depending on the piston model.....
We'll have to agree to disagree; possibly your perspective is based on the limitation of the photos, but I've seen ridge-reamer damage and it's not present.

I'm aware of where the ridge is - my point was that this mark could not be a ridge.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #34  
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Is the suspected crack where I put the red dots ?
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Is the suspected crack where I put the red dots ?
Yes.
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #36  
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Two more possibilities... a "bruise" from a seperated valve head contacting the wall, not overbored but honed at last assembly? Or possibly a casting flaw not revealed until wiped clean by the running in? I do see some vertical scoring associated with the suspect area; carbon particles trapped in the mold? Do you know if the .040 is a fresh rebore or simply "freshened"?
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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I agree it looks like a valve dropped at some point, or a ring gave up. I would be very surprised if it was a crack. If it doesn't test out as a crack,and you have honing hatch marks all the way through the blemish I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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they sell home magnaflux kits to check any visable and surface cracks, they are cheap enough for you to look into...I think I saw it on Trucks...
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