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I don't think I ever tried to test just a coil for spark, I have several used ones I just swap if I suspect a bad coil.
If I had to guess on a way to do it I would say put 12 volts the pos term , put a coil wire in the center and position the other end 1/2" from ground, then attach a wire to the neg term and with the other end of the wire quickly scratch ground and watch for the arch at the coil wire. Thats just a guess.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by DWncchs
I don't think I ever tried to test just a coil for spark, I have several used ones I just swap if I suspect a bad coil.
If I had to guess on a way to do it I would say put 12 volts the pos term , put a coil wire in the center and position the other end 1/2" from ground, then attach a wire to the neg term and with the other end of the wire quickly scratch ground and watch for the arch at the coil wire. Thats just a guess.
yah so it kinda acts like as if it were an "coil on Plug"
i have seen it work before
The plug still needs a return path for it to be able to develop a spark. This means the threaded part must be grounded against the block or some other ground when cranking.
Solve this easily through Process of elimination: you already know you have power to the coil. Use one of the plug wires in place of the coil wire and try to start the engine. Of course the cylinder you took the wire from will miss, but:
if the coil is good, the engine will start. - replace coil wire.
if the coil is bad, the engine will not start. - replace coil
Solve this easily through Process of elimination: you already know you have power to the coil. Use one of the plug wires in place of the coil wire and try to start the engine. Of course the cylinder you took the wire from will miss, but:
if the coil is good, the engine will start. - replace coil wire.
if the coil is bad, the engine will not start. - replace coil
What if the wire going to the points is grounded or open ?
The point of my post is demonstrate logical troubleshooting to reach a diagnosis, versus 'guessing' until he gets to the right part.
A lot of time and energy can be spent on hunt-n-peck, where a logical process will quickly lead to a solution.
100% I like working through a problem systematically and finding the exact cause rather than changing 4 or 5 things and wondering what actually fixed it. ( I'm a lot **** that way . )
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
If the OP has 12 volts at the coil+, then a short between the coil and points is unlikely (unless there is also a fault with an open primary winding). Assuming the points are open, there should be 12 volts at both primary terminals.