1980 and im going to paint it myself,been studying up on paint for around a month now and i think im going to spray an acrylic urethane single stage color on this car.

from what i have read this is one of the easiest paint systems to spray with proper settup.

i have a garage with everything i need to do this with compressor 60gal 5hp and all the tools just need to buy a good gun.

i love to learn new things when it comes to my projects,and i always like to try to do things on my own instead of paying other people to do them for me.


what do you guys think about spraying a acrylic urathane single stage for this car?

 

concentrate on your system first, in particular water and Oil seperator for your compressor and gun,
I added several filters and water traps,
If you get moisture out of the gun, it will make for a very bad day.
I built my own water seperator system, a coil of copper tubbing and ice water.
then built a seperator from PVC and copper scub pads.
Go buy a harbor freight gun, INEXPENSIVE, and they work fine.
but you will have to spend some time setting up and practicing with the gun.
Single stage paint is easier and more forgiving, and less work ! 69VETT

 

**** PROFESSIONAL OPINION ****
I would not spray a single stage paint on a Corvette...unless going to NCRS standards. Even though is is a good paint to use (depending on what company you use) The single stage system is more likely to allow enviromental issues to effect it...because the paint does not have CLEAR on it to protect it from...bird droppings, acid rain, hard water spots, and other chemicals that can come in contact with the paint.

I prefer basecoat/clearcoat. And if you are wanting to apply a single stage paint that has metallics or pearls in it...sanding and buffing on the final layer can change the effect of the outcome due to cutting throught the layers and giving an inconstant metallic/pearl structure. This is why I use bc/cc. IF it is s solid color...then it will be fine...but still can be stained by chemicals and other issues earlier listed.

I do also TOTALLY AGREE with 69vette's advice on making sure that you have DRY air getting to you paint gun. I have an aftercooler and refrigerator drier on mine and I get moisture free air at all times...which is important...because the moisture..if trapped in the layers of paint...because the choice of reducer/hardener where to "FAST" for the air temperatures at the time of painting...can cause for color "blushing" and possible bubbles when the paint is out in the sun due to the trapped moisture in it. Excessive moisture in your compressed air can change black to gray and red towards a pink when they are "flashing off" and this can also be caused by high humnidity also...dye to the moisture content in the filtered air coming in your "booth" passes over the car and can possibly cause problems. REGARDLESS of single stage or bc/cc. your air needs to be as moisture free as possible. You can check to see if you have a moisture problem by using a blow off tool and blowing air against a mirror...if it fogs up or you see water droplets...you have not corrected the moisture problem. Makiing sure your compressor can draw good air is valueable instead of being put in a closet or metal shed outside with the doors closed.

And don't forget to make sure you also get oil seperators...because most of all compressors do leak oil into the air system and this oil needs to be removed also before the paint gun regulator....or you can run into "fisheyes" or oil contaminating the paint while it is being sprayed or even while prepping it for paint and blowing the car off while "tacking" it with a tack rag...can allow oil to get on the surface.

Single layer is hard to repair if you run into a problem while spraying a layer...while basecoat can often times be allowed to dry a bit and a repair can be made. And with having to apply a few coats of clear is usually the only major difference in the two systems.
"DUB"