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Cooling 1980 Vette

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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by John Dingman
In most cases the stock copper radiator will do just fine but with all the mods you have made you might have to improve the performance of the radiator to keep up. You should be able to drop that 30-40 degrees by simply changing to an aluminum radiator alone.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe he is running with that now.
"Looking for options for bringing the temperature down on my 1980 l48. I have made several engine upgrades to the L48 block; Flat top pistons, SCAT Crank, Performance Cam, 1.5 Roller Rockers, Aluminum performance intake, 600Cfm Carb, Aluminum Radiator, Block Hugger Headers, true dual exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers, High flow water pump and a high flow 160 degree Thermostat."

dprestridge may have to move to electric fans to control the temp as already stated by MN80VETTE. But, dprestridge wrote that his temp comes down when at a stop. Electric fans are great for stop/go and around town traffic to keep the underhood temp from creeping up. If the temp goes down when it idles, I would have to look at the entire situation.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Could you possibly have an inaccurate temp gauge? Before you do anything, I have read that many measure the temp with an IR Temp Gun at the top radiator hose. Many find the temp is within the 180-200 degree normal op temp and their gauge needs replacing.
Just a thought. Go purchase one and try it.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rebelrob
Could you possibly have an inaccurate temp gauge? Before you do anything, I have read that many measure the temp with an IR Temp Gun at the top radiator hose. Many find the temp is within the 180-200 degree normal op temp and their gauge needs replacing.
Just a thought. Go purchase one and try it.


Also, I would recommend you go to a 180 or 190 thermostat as the higher range keeps the coolant in the radiator longer allowing it to do its job. It will cycle at that range of temps and should maintain under 200 in the engine.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Project80
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe he is running with that now.
Who knows? I missed the "aluminum radiator" in the op but he also said
"The Water Pump is a Summit Racing and the Radiator is a Harrison " which would be a copper unit.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by John Dingman
Who knows? I missed the "aluminum radiator" in the op but he also said
"The Water Pump is a Summit Racing and the Radiator is a Harrison " which would be a copper unit.
Had the same problem for several years (79 L82). Car always ran hot, close to 220 with out going very far and oh by the way, that's in the summer in Buffalo NY. .... Originally I rigged the electric fan to run all the time, it helped a lot. Last week I replaced the original radiator core with a 4 row brass/ copper core. I couldn't be happier with the results. My temps now are near or below 200. A far cry from where they were(220+) I would insist on a 4 row, I also learned that some aluminums are not what you might expect. The best part of the whole install is the fact that for years my left turn dash indicator never worked. I installed the radiator and guess what.... yep .... the dash- turn indicator now lights up !!!.. Gremlins, go figure!!!!!!
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Carl79
Had the same problem for several years (79 L82). Car always ran hot, close to 220 with out going very far and oh by the way, that's in the summer in Buffalo NY. .... Originally I rigged the electric fan to run all the time, it helped a lot. Last week I replaced the original radiator core with a 4 row brass/ copper core. I couldn't be happier with the results. My temps now are near or below 200. A far cry from where they were(220+) I would insist on a 4 row, I also learned that some aluminums are not what you might expect. The best part of the whole install is the fact that for years my left turn dash indicator never worked. I installed the radiator and guess what.... yep .... the dash- turn indicator now lights up !!!.. Gremlins, go figure!!!!!!
I recently replaced a 4 core brass/copper radiator in my 78 L-82 with dewitts aluminum, a Stewart Stage 2 aluminum water pump, and Robertshaw 180 degree high performance thermostat and my car runs around 175 around town and 190 on the highway all day at 75-80 MPH where before it would creep to 225+ on the highway on hot days. I would have installed a Dewitts rather than a 4 core copper/brass if you want maximum reduction. Sounds like your car is doing what mine did with a 4 core copper/brass. What does it run on the highway on 90 degree days at 70 MPH?
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
I recently replaced a 4 core brass/copper radiator in my 78 L-82 with dewitts aluminum, a Stewart Stage 2 aluminum water pump, and Robertshaw 180 degree high performance thermostat and my car runs around 175 around town and 190 on the highway all day at 75-80 MPH where before it would creep to 225+ on the highway on hot days. I would have installed a Dewitts rather than a 4 core copper/brass if you want maximum reduction. Sounds like your car is doing what mine did with a 4 core copper/brass. What does it run on the highway on 90 degree days at 70 MPH?
In respect to your water pump selection, the Stewart Stage 2 pumps pay particular attention to the reduction of cavitation. To me, this is one of the key factors in controlling engine temperature.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #28  
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When you did the mod's did you change the sensor for the gauge? You may want to buy thero sensor to check you gauge. Cheep $10 to $25 to be sure that you have an overheating poblem.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Carl79
My temps now are near or below 200. A far cry from where they were(220+) I would insist on a 4 row, I also learned that some aluminums are not what you might expect.
An aluminum radiator (2 row 1" tubes) has the btu rejection rate of a 6 row copper unit. Had you gone with one of these you would have been running at the stat setting. Most people report at least a 30 degree drop and some as high as 50 degree.
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Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:17 PM
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Post a pic of engine bay. It's amazing what someone kind find in a picture

You don't by any chance has a reverse flow pump with the stock fan?
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by spedaleden
Post a pic of engine bay. It's amazing what someone kind find in a picture

You don't by any chance has a reverse flow pump with the stock fan?
Didn't mean to say that its the only way to go. Just saying......just because it's aluminum does not make it better. There's a lot of aluminum junk on ebay and so called corvette part shops. Be careful what you buy. I on the other hand, I am enjoying nice low temps with the brass/copper core, and that was the objective.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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Running hot around town (vs hot at freeway speeds) indicates an air-flow problem. I use a heavy duty thermo clutch and an ac steel fan (7 blade?). Not to offend anyone's advice, but I do not believe in the coolant cycling too fast in the radiator theory...
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 03:54 AM
  #33  
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I have 383 stroker, and changed to an aluminum dewitts with dual electric fans. Never runs hot. great addition was to add those fans. Wouldd run hot at times with stock fan.
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