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Since my last thread got CNX'd, I never got a chance to thank you all for the responses. I do have a few more questions. I'm about to order a short block and I've settled on a Dart SHP based 406 w/ forged assy (4.155x3.75). My new dilemma: 5.7" or 6.0" rods? 6.0" will provide a lighter assy and better ratio, but will place the pin into the oil ring land. The 5.7", although better than a factory 400, has a bit less ideal ratio, but gets the pin out of the ring pack. Of course street power is an important goal, but so is reliability and a bit of longevity. Any thoughts?
Since my last thread got CNX'd, I never got a chance to thank you all for the responses. I do have a few more questions. I'm about to order a short block and I've settled on a Dart SHP based 406 w/ forged assy (4.155x3.75). My new dilemma: 5.7" or 6.0" rods? 6.0" will provide a lighter assy and better ratio, but will place the pin into the oil ring land. The 5.7", although better than a factory 400, has a bit less ideal ratio, but gets the pin out of the ring pack. Of course street power is an important goal, but so is reliability and a bit of longevity. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Rob
Rob
All the 383's we have built have been all with 6.00 rods and some of the pistons we use the oil righ does have a ring spacer and so far no concerns.
If you think its goin to be a problem go to the Mahle pistons as the use no spacer rings with their ring package, These piston I consider top of the line and have used quite a few sets of them with no problems.
A 6.000 rod crank will internally balance as well.
I went with 6" rods in my Dart SHP block. 4.00" stroke x 4.155" bore. My rod goes into the ringland area, but has worked great so far. There are alot of these combos running around these days.
Three positives in a row helps a lot. The builder recommended 6.0" rods while he also discouraged a more expensive set-up, so I feel good about following his advice. Just wanted to put a feeler out there with you all for some 'piece of mind.' Thanks.
Look at Probe forged pistons. I just used them in my 409 SBC w/6" rods in my build a year ago. You'll be forced to use good quality rings (1/16, 1/16, 1/8" ring set, only made by total seal) if the .030 ones are like the .040 ones I was looking for, but you should use good rings anyway on an engine like that. With the thin rings and the modern piston design, the wrist pin is not quite into the ring pack.
Thanks for the inputs. I ordered the short block from CNC Motorsports, but I ended up picking 5.7" rods. I asked the same question, and with some of the feedback, I ended up taking the conservative route over optimal performance. The builder mentioned slightly better low RPM cylinder filling as the only performance benefit, but he also said that it I would never half to worry about it slightly smoking on start-up. Thought that since I'll be running side pipes, it would be the safest way to go. So thanks anyway for the inputs. We'll see how it turn out.
I do have a new question. The pistons he recommended for my goals(Probe SRP) will yield about 9.7:1 static comp when decked. Does this assume a standard head gasket thickness, and if so how much can it reasonably be altered with different gaskets?
Also, I was originally planning on AFR 195 Eliminator Streets. I was reading their website and the AFR 180 Comps are getting just a tad under 500HP with a ton of low end torque on 383s. I would think the throttle response would be better than the 195s. What are your thoughts? AFR 180 Comps too small on a 406?
Your best bet is to call Probe and ask them. Have the gasket part numbers you're interested in ready and they should be able to help you figure out your options and final compression ratio.
Why don't you just ask Carl at CNC? He'll answer your questions. That's why he's in business. You can also go to Probe's site and look up the tech specs on your piston choice.
I too would go with at least a 195 head. Unless you'll never turn the thing over 5k rpm, you'll run out of the 180s attrubutes well ahead of the engine's potential.
With the Mahle pistons and 6" rods the pin is not into the lower ring groove. Pluses of this combo, lighter, better ratio, better cylinder filling. Negatives. None. Price, same. We tried to tell you.
dstaley,
manifold will be RPM air gap. set-up is this bottom end, AFR 195s, and probably a FAST or PJection I or III TBI. Haven't ruled out a 750 mech carb yet though. Exhaust is Hooker side exhaust. Haven't picked a cam yet. Car is a SRIII based 68 conv with 3.45 rear gear, and TKO 600 with .64 5th.
63mako,
I hear ya, and thanks for the advice. I feel good about the choice though. Its still a better ratio than factory, and I hope more durable than a more exotic combo. This is for a driver.
All, I agree on the 195 Eliminators. Just a sanity check. Is it true that the these heads should match well with the RPM air gap and 1205 gasket? Any blending needed? Next decsion is a cam.
dstaley,
manifold will be RPM air gap. set-up is this bottom end, AFR 195s, and probably a FAST or PJection I or III TBI. Haven't ruled out a 750 mech carb yet though. Exhaust is Hooker side exhaust. Haven't picked a cam yet. Car is a SRIII based 68 conv with 3.45 rear gear, and TKO 600 with .64 5th.
63mako,
I hear ya, and thanks for the advice. I feel good about the choice though. Its still a better ratio than factory, and I hope more durable than a more exotic combo. This is for a driver.
All, I agree on the 195 Eliminators. Just a sanity check. Is it true that the these heads should match well with the RPM air gap and 1205 gasket? Any blending needed? Next decsion is a cam.
Thanks,
Rob
You will be just fine with that ratio. Only in extreme applications the ratio will be an issue. I have been running a stock GM 406 w/ a 144 super charger with no problem for years in my truck. I just keep it below 6000 rpm and run shell rotella oil