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Volts drop when idle?

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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Default Volts drop when idle?

My volt meter (autometer) reads about 14 when driving but drops to about 10 or 11 when idle and lights dim.
Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:03 PM
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Your voltage regulator in your altenator is probably shot. Time for a new alternator.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by VettePower
Your voltage regulator in your altenator is probably shot. Time for a new alternator.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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My 1979 does the same thing. Should I just get a 63 amp or go with something bigger? My car is almost all stock.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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does the cs130 alternators from the C4s fit the 79s as well.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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If you are using under drive pulleys...the problem will persist unless you change teh pulleys back. If not..it sounds like the alternator or the connections to it may be loose or wires broken or a loose belt.
"DUB"
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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I will try the alternator route and then if necessary, chase the wires. Everything looks good with the wires but you never know after 30 years.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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A "one wire" alternator can also do that. Is yours stock or a replacement "one-wire"?
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dgood
My 1979 does the same thing. Should I just get a 63 amp or go with something bigger? My car is almost all stock.
No need for a bigger one. Stock size is more than enough.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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Mine has four wires, a black and a red and then 2 wires going into a connector. I will stick with a stock one.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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Idle speed can also affect output of the alternator. The alternator is not going to put out the same voltage at 600 RPM vs 2500+ RPM while cruising.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddie 70
Idle speed can also affect output of the alternator. The alternator is not going to put out the same voltage at 600 RPM vs 2500+ RPM while cruising.
True but, voltage at idle must be at least 1 volt above battery voltage (13.5 or 13.6) and that's where the regulator comes into question.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DHB_C3
Most likely you need a new alternator as most people have stated, but it'll be a good idea to also check your fan belt tension and also check the big cable on the alternator as well. That cable goes all the way to the battery behind the driver seat and could corrode over time.
Why would you replace the entire alternator when just the regulator can be replaced? In fact, most all the parts in the alternator can be replaced. Check the Service and Overhaul manuals for testing & repair instructions. Check the vendors for the parts.

Old guys like me call it trouble shooting, the new term is root cause analysis. Same difference, you figure out what is not working the way it should and fix it.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
Why would you replace the entire alternator when just the regulator can be replaced? In fact, most all the parts in the alternator can be replaced. Check the Service and Overhaul manuals for testing & repair instructions. Check the vendors for the parts.

Old guys like me call it trouble shooting, the new term is root cause analysis. Same difference, you figure out what is not working the way it should and fix it.
I agree, here's a 'How to' if you want to get into the alternator www.4wheelnoffroad.com/alter.html
But the auto parts stores offer a lifetime warranty, I went to AZ when the regulator failed and years later a bearing failed so I'm sold on lifetime warranties. PG.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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switched out the alternator today. Fixed the voltage drop at idle. Thanks alot and appreciate the help.
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