383 stroker rebuild....
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
383 stroker rebuild....
Hi there, I recently removed my original 350 base motor out of my 1972 'Vette and have plans to rebuild it as it was running low and weak on compression and basically needed a rebuild already a few years back. When I mentioned to friends that I was going to rebuild it over this coming winter, they said to me why don't you stroke it to a 383 to give it more power while you are at it. This got me thinking and after talking with several grease monkies I have decided to do this. Now the problem is that I am doing this myself, and I have never rebuilt an engine before, but I am pretty good technically and mechanically with stuff. I even purchased the book on how to rebuild your SB Chevy 350 motor....exciting book lol 
My question is quite simple. I want to rebuild this motor properly to attain a horsepower range of about 460 to 480 in the end. Many grease monkies have stated that I need to get forged parts to do a nice build. Where do I find 383 stroker kits that have higher end forged parts? Also, what forged kits if any can you recommend to me. My budget overall for this motor rebuild is tops at $ 8,000.00.
Any suggestions out there?
Thanks
My question is quite simple. I want to rebuild this motor properly to attain a horsepower range of about 460 to 480 in the end. Many grease monkies have stated that I need to get forged parts to do a nice build. Where do I find 383 stroker kits that have higher end forged parts? Also, what forged kits if any can you recommend to me. My budget overall for this motor rebuild is tops at $ 8,000.00.
Any suggestions out there?
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
I'll make the obligatory comment that if your engine is numbers-matching you may want to pickle it and set it aside vs. doing a performance overhaul.
You can absolutely do this overhaul yourself, and your budget is in the right range. Step one is to form a relationship with a local shop that can and will work with a home rebuilder.
You're right at the edge of what a stock block will handle for power numbers, which you should factor into your planning. Those power numbers also do point you at an all-forged rotating ***'y. Forged ***'ys are available from many vendors, with some of the best price/performance coming from Callies and Scat. Eagle cranks in my experience have generally been junk. The forged items are better than cast in terms of tolerances, but generally I don't recommend them period.
I'd work this from the heads backwards - power level determines the heads, heads and usage (gears) drive the cam choice (hydraulic roller unless you're planning to turn north of 6K) and the rotating ***'y supports the heads
The trans and gears are going to make some of these choices for you.
In closing, don't buy ANYTHING until you have your complete design complete. Buying parts early generally ends up with an engine not done and parts you can't using going on eBay.
You can absolutely do this overhaul yourself, and your budget is in the right range. Step one is to form a relationship with a local shop that can and will work with a home rebuilder.
You're right at the edge of what a stock block will handle for power numbers, which you should factor into your planning. Those power numbers also do point you at an all-forged rotating ***'y. Forged ***'ys are available from many vendors, with some of the best price/performance coming from Callies and Scat. Eagle cranks in my experience have generally been junk. The forged items are better than cast in terms of tolerances, but generally I don't recommend them period.
I'd work this from the heads backwards - power level determines the heads, heads and usage (gears) drive the cam choice (hydraulic roller unless you're planning to turn north of 6K) and the rotating ***'y supports the heads
The trans and gears are going to make some of these choices for you.In closing, don't buy ANYTHING until you have your complete design complete. Buying parts early generally ends up with an engine not done and parts you can't using going on eBay.
Last edited by billla; Sep 10, 2009 at 04:41 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 27
From: Auburndale Florida
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Went the 383 route 2 years ago. Bought an Eagle internally balanced rotating assembly. Everyone sells them. I would go with a Scat. I had to rebalance the Eagle crank 
. Also used Comp retro roller cam (224/230 with 510 lift with 1.5 rockers), Trick Flow 195 cc alum heads, Chinese alum med rise intake (port dimensions matched the heads) with a 670 Street Avenger with a GM style drop base air cleaner (stock hood fits good)
All in all it runs great, lots of torque. My objective was not to butcher the car, be easy to drive and have a little cam rumble. Couldn't go too wild, with an automatic and air. Pleanty of vaumm to run the brakes, lights and wipers too.
IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER....I would mothball the original engine and get a crate engine. I had about $5k in mine, for the money you can buy a fair amount of motor!
I have everything (heads,cam, crank, pistons intake, carb etc) to put back to stock
Year One has a 350 Vortec set up $2985 plus fright, 400+ HP and 425 ft lbs of torque roller cam, pans, intake....and a warranty
. Also used Comp retro roller cam (224/230 with 510 lift with 1.5 rockers), Trick Flow 195 cc alum heads, Chinese alum med rise intake (port dimensions matched the heads) with a 670 Street Avenger with a GM style drop base air cleaner (stock hood fits good)All in all it runs great, lots of torque. My objective was not to butcher the car, be easy to drive and have a little cam rumble. Couldn't go too wild, with an automatic and air. Pleanty of vaumm to run the brakes, lights and wipers too.
IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER....I would mothball the original engine and get a crate engine. I had about $5k in mine, for the money you can buy a fair amount of motor!
I have everything (heads,cam, crank, pistons intake, carb etc) to put back to stock
Year One has a 350 Vortec set up $2985 plus fright, 400+ HP and 425 ft lbs of torque roller cam, pans, intake....and a warranty
