So I posted the following in the spring:
Old Post
And the kind folks here convinced me to make some changes and delay until I could do a more comprehensive build.

So here is my new post in preparation for the build-up this winter with a list of questions below. I saved my pennies and while I am scared crapless of my first dive into an engine, I am looking forward to the experience.

Current Set-up
383 (Jasper Class II)
Blue Racer Crane Cam WG-1173
• .050 Duration: 224° Intake; 234° Exhaust
• Advertised Duration: 298° Intake; 304° Exhaust
• Cam Lift: .290 Intake; .300 Exhaust
• Valve Lift: .465 Intake; .488 Exhaust
• Lobe Center: 107° Intake; 117° Exhaust
Edelbrock Performer 2101
Hooker Headers and Sidepipes w/ Max Flo inserts
Speed Demon 750 Carb
Dart S/S Iron Eagle Heads (10024267)
- 76cc combustion chamber, 165intake/65exhaust and
2.02intake/1.60exhaust
1.5" Rockers
TKO-500
3.55 gears

Planned Upgrades
Edelbrock Air Gap 7501 (already purchased and verified will fit under hood)
AFR 195 aluminum cylinder heads with 75cc chambers (part #1040)
1.6" Rockers - (#1301-16)
Pushrods (part #7944-16) - I have the tools to measure as well but this is my initial guess.
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Retro-Fit Camshafts CCA-12-433-8
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Comp Cams High Energy Roller Lifters (part #853-16)
Head Bolts (part #134-3601)
Rocker Studs (4500-16)
Guide Plates (4808-8)
Various Gaskets
Autolite Platinum Plugs AP3924 w/ .4 gap
Blue & Black RTV, Assembly Lube, Break-In Oil

And from my paranoia, here are the list of questions, etc I have floating in my head (in no particular order):
1) Good sparkplug choice?
2) Assuming I should set cam timing at zero?
3) Am I missing any parts?
4) Will this be a good streetable motor?
5) Will I have enough vac to run my headlights and acc? Brake booster is now hydraulic, carb has mech sec and my distributor has the vac advanced removed
6) Will there be an issue with fitment between the new cyl heads, plugs and exhaust headers? Not to mention my steeroids system...
7) Will I have any trouble / need any special modification to mount my alternator, etc?
8) Easier to pull engine + trans? Or just trans? My car was an auto so I have the removable cross-member and I have a hydraulic clutch so i am thinking easier to pull everything.
9) Any special tools needed other than the usual hand tools, engine hoist / stand, gap tool and torque wrench?

Thanks in advance for all of the help. This is my first foray into touching anything in the engine itself. I have some good buddies ready to help and as we like to say, "together we make one half decent mechanic".

Thanks
Shane

 

Just a cam and head swap? No real need to pull the engine unless you just want the extra work. Pull the hood,(mark the hinge locations!), radiator and core support. That will give you plenty of room.

Most cams are ground with 4* of advance built in. Check with the cam manufacturer to verify. Unless you're trying to get some top or botom end performance, usually straight up works. If you change, be sure and check piston to valve clearance.
Make sure the springs on the AFR heads are correct for the cam. Open pressure, seat pressure and lift.

I'd add a gallon of denatured alcohol to your parts list, along with a bag of rags. Use the alcohol to wipe down anything that is getting RTV as a sealant. RTV won't stick if there's a trace of oil.
Add a timing set. No sense in using the old one. Use locktite on the cam gear bolts.
You really don't need 2 colors of RTV unless you want to. Black will do everything you need.
Get a bottle/can of Permatex #2, gaskacinch, Indian Head gasket maker or yellow 3M weatehrstrip adhesive. Useful to hold gaskets in place.

 

You will also need a new timing cover or at least the button to keep the cam from walking. A roller cam must be held in its position. Unlike a flat tappet that is ground to keep the cam from walking a roller has flat lobes so the cam can move. I am putting in a solid roller this fall and bought a new much more rigid timing cover that has a cam button built into it. Just another 100 dollars or so.

The cam should work very well in your combo. I am putting a similar one with a little more lift in a solid roller grind. I had it custom ground to work with the fuel injection though. Your vacuum stuff should work fine.

 

Thanks. I researched a little and looks like this would be the correct choice for my application.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/200/10002/-1
and this timing cover
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/4240/10002/-1

 

Here is what I bought. It had the button included. Just another option.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Cloyes/220/9-221/10002/-1

 

Even better, thanks. I will change that out on my parts list

 

Will laquer thinner works as well? I heard thsat is what I should use from someone else?
If not where can I get the denatured alcohol?
Thanks
Shane

 

lacquer will work just fine It's what I use and have not had any problems.

 

ttt for the weekday crowd...
Thanks
Shane

 

Check your piston top to deck height when you get the heads off. Post up results to pick a good gasket for quench. I would get the compression up a little to take full advantage of the cam. 10 to 1 is a much better match than 9.4 to 1. I milled my AFR's to 70 CC with flat tops and a similar cam. $80 will probably mill them. Check piston to valve clearance. Nice build.

 

Tried to find instructions on proper way to measure but could not find a good article, paper, etc online or inthe resources I have here. Is it as simple as a depth gauge from the top of the piston to the deck? Take a few measurements and average them out?

As for the gasket, I have in hand a Fel Pro 1003
http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel+Pro/375/1003/10002/-1

 

This is not a chevy but is a good read on determining piston to deck height and the repercussions of not checking these measurements closely. Ideal quench which is the assembled distance from the piston top at TDC to the head mating surface is .040. Your gasket is ideal if your piston to deck height is .000. If it is down in the hole thinner gaskets are available. Good way to bump compression a little too. You really need 10 to 1 minimum with that cam. I know the website link I gave you was running 9.5 to 1 but 10 to 1 will give you a measurable increase in power across the board with that cam. Do your calculations and get good quench and proper compression it will pay dividends on power.

 

Link to article?

 

Sorry. This is a 2 stroke but procedures and theory is the same.
http://www.2strokeheads.com/tech1.htm

 

Thanks. Printing now and adding to my pile.

 

Just reviewing my part list and realized I made an error. The head part # is the AFR 1036 which has the straight plugs and not the L98 style plugs. Assuming I want the straight style plugs to avoid any issues.
Thanks
Shane