Transmission Shift linkage question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
Transmission Shift linkage question
I installed a new transmission in my Vette. Yesterday, I filled the vehicle with fluid and started the vehicle. I then put the vehicle in each gear and the engine rpm did not drop or increase as it I put it in gear. Im thinking about whether I installed the linkage correctly. I posted a thread late last month titled Gear Shift Cable Bracket Location asking about the location of the linkage bracket and I got 14 views and no replies. Could someone please take a pic of the shift linkage so I can have something to use as a reference. The vehicle is a 79 and has a TH350 transmission. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Sep 14, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 385
Likes: 3
From: RTP NC
I installed a new transmission in my Vette. Yesterday, I filled the vehicle with fluid and started the vehicle. I then put the vehicle in each gear and the engine rpm did not drop or increase as it I put it in gear. Im thinking about whether I installed the linkage correctly. I posted a thread late last month titled Shift linkage bracket location asking about the location of the linkage bracket and I got 14 views and no replies. Could someone please take a pic of the shift linkage so I can have something to use as a reference. The vehicle is a 79 and has a TH350 transmission. Thanks in advance.
http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...Seal%20change/
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
That is a good point. I did fill the transmission up with fluid to the first line on the dipstick that says ADD. The convertor was making a rattling noise at idle. I did not do that while the vehicle is on fast (cold) idle mode. The fluid level is where I mentioned in the above sentence. Looks like I'm gong to have to separate the tranny from the engine to make sure the convertor is completely seated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
When you installed the trans, did the convertor spin freely before you bolted it to the flexplate? If it did, that says it's in the trans properly. If it's not seated, it won't clear the flexplate.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
To tell you the truth, I'm unsure. I can take off the convertor bolts to check if it turns freely can I not? If not, I will have to seperate it the trans from the engine to see if it is seated. I started and ran the engine on three occassions for no longer then 1min due to the rattling I heard at the convertor. I hope I did not do any damage to the pump. According to the service manual the tranny holds about 20 pints. I only put in enough to bring the level up the the add 1qt line. As for clearing the flex plate, I am assuming you mean if the bolts and holes line up? If so, they did. I really want to get this thing going and it is frustrating when these little things come up to slow you down. I glad you were surfing the forum since you have removed and installed many trannys.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Sep 14, 2009 at 08:29 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
If the convertor was not seated in the front pump correctly and the trans was bolted in there is a good chance the front pump is broken. The lugs in the pump set in the 2 notches in the convertor hub. That rattle you hear may be the broken pieces of the pump gear. I'm really wondering since your first post you noted that the car didn't change RPM when you put it in gear.
Pull the cover off the bottom, unbolt the convertor from the flexplate, push the convertor back toward the trans, and rotate the convertor. It should be smooth, easy to turn, and no noise.
Pull the cover off the bottom, unbolt the convertor from the flexplate, push the convertor back toward the trans, and rotate the convertor. It should be smooth, easy to turn, and no noise.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
If the convertor was not seated in the front pump correctly and the trans was bolted in there is a good chance the front pump is broken. The lugs in the pump set in the 2 notches in the convertor hub. That rattle you hear may be the broken pieces of the pump gear. I'm really wondering since your first post you noted that the car didn't change RPM when you put it in gear.
Pull the cover off the bottom, unbolt the convertor from the flexplate, push the convertor back toward the trans, and rotate the convertor. It should be smooth, easy to turn, and no noise.
Pull the cover off the bottom, unbolt the convertor from the flexplate, push the convertor back toward the trans, and rotate the convertor. It should be smooth, easy to turn, and no noise.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
I removed the convertor bolts and pushed, spun the convertor. It rotated freely and there was no noise present. However, when I put the bolts back on and started the engine, the rattling noise was present. I went under the car while it was running and the noise is coming from the transmission. The pump may very well be broken. One would think that the pump would be durable, but I guess not. I'm so damn frustrated. I will just take the damn car to a transmission shop and be done with it. Something always comes up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
The pump gears in a 350/400 are just cast iron- tough but brittle. Same for the vane type pump in a 200 or 700. The rotor is brittle. I'd have to think about taking it to a trans shop- they're going to want a full rebuild and very possibly all you need is a pump assembly. with the tranny out, almost as easy as changing a tire on the 200/700 and 400, and like opening the car door on a 350. And a rebuilt pump i not all tehat expensive.