fuel pump install
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
From: Wheaton, Illinois
fuel pump install
79 Vette 350. Removed the old fuel pump. Trying to install new pump w/ the two bolts, can only get one bolt in, not able to get second bolt in due to the spring in the fuel pump. I bumped the engine over a little no change. I lined up the second bolt up w/ the hole in the block, but it wont catch? Tried for an hour. Had the right tire off. Please help.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
use longer bolts to get it in place and then move to a shorter bolts one one by one....use a long extension from under the wheel well to get the right angle
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Schaumburg Illinois
whatever you do don't force it, sure to bust something. use a small dab of wheel bearing grease on the motor end of the fuel pump pushrod to hold in into the engine while you're working, one less thing to have to juggle. it'll melt in the oil, won't hurt anything. did you notice any tightness when you removed it? if the push rod is on the base circle of the cam drive lobe it should go on pretty smooth.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
try turning the engine over by hand by putting a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt...do not go backwards though or the bolt will loosen ......do this unitl the pushrod is in all the way that will help but its still an effort to push the lever down.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 436
Likes: 2
Today I started up the new engine for the first time...the pump is not pumping fuel at all. I used some compressed air through the fuel return line to fill the float bowls up. After doing that, the engine idled fine for about 1.5 min or so until all the gas was gone in the carb...the fuel pump definitely isn't working and there isn't any line blockage.
That said, I came to read on here and once again proving my newness to this stuff, I didn't even think about the pushrod. I didn't attempt to push it up/out of the way (this is the first time I've ever installed a fuel pump). The fuel pump went in just fine and bolted in with no problems (I didn't have to force it), but since I didn't even think about the pushrod, this could possibly explain the problem. Have I messed up the pushrod? How can I fix this problem?
Also, I read somewhere on here that you should be able to press the lever using the force of your hand. I could not really do that. Did I read incorrectly or is something wrong with the pump?
EDIT: This is a standard 2 port holley pump on a ZZ454.
That said, I came to read on here and once again proving my newness to this stuff, I didn't even think about the pushrod. I didn't attempt to push it up/out of the way (this is the first time I've ever installed a fuel pump). The fuel pump went in just fine and bolted in with no problems (I didn't have to force it), but since I didn't even think about the pushrod, this could possibly explain the problem. Have I messed up the pushrod? How can I fix this problem?
Also, I read somewhere on here that you should be able to press the lever using the force of your hand. I could not really do that. Did I read incorrectly or is something wrong with the pump?
EDIT: This is a standard 2 port holley pump on a ZZ454.
Last edited by FlyViper; Dec 27, 2009 at 07:17 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 809
Likes: 8
From: brewster NY
Just did mine and used all the tips from the guys above, the grease works great also on my 71 I used this time to change out the lower hose
and flush the block and radiator. With the lower hose removed it was easier to get to the fuel pump. Good luck
and flush the block and radiator. With the lower hose removed it was easier to get to the fuel pump. Good luck
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 436
Likes: 2
Well the problem is I didn't do anything with the pushrod...to be honest I didn't even know it was there (yeah, I should have looked this up before installing). I just put the fuel pump in the opening, bolted it in and called it good. If I pull the fuel pump out, will I be able to see the rod and tell if it's bent or not?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 895
Likes: 4
From: whitman massachusetts
Push Rod
Hey Fly,
You mentioned in first post that you were firing up your "new" engine. My guess is that there is no push rod behind your pump. If the new engine came through with a blockoff plate covering mechanical fuel pump opening, my guess would be that you simply installed the pump, but not the push rod. Common for engines where electric fuel pumps might be used, to ship without the pushrod. No harm done, just pull the pump and reinstall with the correct pushrod. As far as plunger pressure goes, moving some of the aftermarket fuel pump plungers while uninstalled can be pretty difficult.
You mentioned in first post that you were firing up your "new" engine. My guess is that there is no push rod behind your pump. If the new engine came through with a blockoff plate covering mechanical fuel pump opening, my guess would be that you simply installed the pump, but not the push rod. Common for engines where electric fuel pumps might be used, to ship without the pushrod. No harm done, just pull the pump and reinstall with the correct pushrod. As far as plunger pressure goes, moving some of the aftermarket fuel pump plungers while uninstalled can be pretty difficult.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,695
Likes: 884
From: Warminster PA
Well the problem is I didn't do anything with the pushrod...to be honest I didn't even know it was there (yeah, I should have looked this up before installing). I just put the fuel pump in the opening, bolted it in and called it good. If I pull the fuel pump out, will I be able to see the rod and tell if it's bent or not?
It is difficult to get the fuel pump on with the pushrod installed and not pushed back into the block. If you had to force it on, you may have bent the pushrod. Hopefully there was no pushrod installed to start with..........
Tom
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 436
Likes: 2
My guess is that there is no push rod behind your pump
If you had to force it on, you may have bent the pushrod. Hopefully there was no pushrod installed to start with..........
That said, does anyone know the specs on the pushrod. I looked on Napa and they have one that's 5 3/4" x .5" OD, supposedly for a 454. Does that sound right?
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...0pushrod&dds=1
My experience: use plenty of wheel bearing grease all over the shaft, push up into hole and quickly seal and bolt the cover plate. Then use a long skinny screwdriver to hold the rod up in the block and place the pump in the hole. Quickly remove the screwdriver (rod stays put for about 3 seconds)and push the pump in the hole. If all goes well, you will still have to ratchet the pump into the motor(it wont sit flush on its own) but it comes within 1/2 of an inch.
My experience: use plenty of wheel bearing grease all over the shaft, push up into hole and quickly seal and bolt the cover plate. Then use a long skinny screwdriver to hold the rod up in the block and place the pump in the hole. Quickly remove the screwdriver (rod stays put for about 3 seconds)and push the pump in the hole. If all goes well, you will still have to ratchet the pump into the motor(it wont sit flush on its own) but it comes within 1/2 of an inch.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
No, there's no difference because the push rod just rubs along the eccentric like the lifters in a regular cam.
Personally, I would lube both tips of the push rod with moly-break in lube and the shaft with wheel bearing grease.
Another tip, do a dry run in fitting the push rod in the hole. If it fits ALL the way up in there flush to the hole, then its away from the cam(thats what you want). If you push it and about an inch is still visible, then remove the rod, rotate the engine 90 degrees by hand and try again. Do all this before you get the rod all lubed up...otherwise, you will have a big mess. Once you know its not on the cam, then apply the lubes and assemble quickly and be sure to tighten the lower cover bolts completely because you cant access them after the pump is on.
Personally, I would lube both tips of the push rod with moly-break in lube and the shaft with wheel bearing grease.
Another tip, do a dry run in fitting the push rod in the hole. If it fits ALL the way up in there flush to the hole, then its away from the cam(thats what you want). If you push it and about an inch is still visible, then remove the rod, rotate the engine 90 degrees by hand and try again. Do all this before you get the rod all lubed up...otherwise, you will have a big mess. Once you know its not on the cam, then apply the lubes and assemble quickly and be sure to tighten the lower cover bolts completely because you cant access them after the pump is on.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 733
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam British Columbia
I would be carefull on that one, I think that there are some billet roller cams that need to run the special tipped push rod for the fuel pump.
Ikwhite
[QUOTE=snoopykissedlucy;1572558493]No, there's no difference because the push rod just rubs along the eccentric like the lifters in a regular cam.
QUOTE]
Ikwhite
[QUOTE=snoopykissedlucy;1572558493]No, there's no difference because the push rod just rubs along the eccentric like the lifters in a regular cam.
QUOTE]
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,874
Likes: 7
From: l In
I don't know about a big block but on the small block there are 2, 3/8' holes in the front of the block. I believe the top hole has a short bolt screwed into it, remove the short bolt and get another longer 3/8's bolt. insert your bronze tipped push rod (Comp Cams) and finger tighten the longer 3/8's bolt into the hole until it hits the pushrod. This will hold the rod in place, then you can install the pump. If the pushrod is not on the base circle of the camshaft, you may have to rotate the engine until it is on base circle. Is your cam a retro fit?, if not it will not have a lobe for the fuel pump. Assuming you do have a retro camshaft, and it does have a lobe, you are ok. Once the pump is installed remove the longer bolt and reinstall the shorter bolt with some rtv sealant and you should be good to go.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 0
From: Frisco TX
I believe you do need a brass tipped rod on a steel billet roller
http://www.atlanticspeed.com/product...gory=0#details
http://www.atlanticspeed.com/product...gory=0#details
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 436
Likes: 2
I ended up getting a brass-tipped rod from Comp Cams last night. Hopefully it works out this weekend so I can finally drive my car!
Also, does anyone happen to have a picture of where you slide the pushrod into a BB?
Also, does anyone happen to have a picture of where you slide the pushrod into a BB?
Last edited by FlyViper; Dec 28, 2009 at 11:01 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,874
Likes: 7
From: l In
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj267/philzell/?action=view¤t=0712phr_01_zblown_b ig_block_chevy_e.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj267/philzell/0712phr_01_zblown_big_block_chevy_e.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,874
Likes: 7
From: l In
Just to the left of the waterpump, you can see the 2 holes I am talking about in this picture. This is where you use the longer 3/8s bolt to hold the push rod, the top hole
Last edited by Phil Zell; Dec 28, 2009 at 11:49 AM.