do you know what double clutching is and do you know how to do it ? If so have you tried it and how does the 1-2 shift do then ?
muncie problem
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From: Alabama
muncie problem
i installed a muncie that i bought years ago. the shift from 1st to second is very stiff and it wont downshift into second at all if you're over 10mph. the gears don't growl, just wont go in. i've had the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, cluster out and disassembled. everything looked great, new synchronizers, sliders and hubs looked good, all gears and bearings looked good. i couldn't find anything obvious wrong. shifter forks looked good and i was careful to adjust the hurst shifer per spec. put it back together and same thing. i drained the 80-90 G5 gear oil and put in 20w-50 motor oil and same results. i'm at a loss, don't know where to go from here. any help will be greatly apreciated.
mac
mac
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thanks guys,
no grinding when going into reverse and i made sure the clutch is completely disengaging. by the way, shifting into 3rd and 4th gear works good and downshifting into 3rd works good. also, when stoped and at idle, it shifts pretty good between 1st and second.
no grinding when going into reverse and i made sure the clutch is completely disengaging. by the way, shifting into 3rd and 4th gear works good and downshifting into 3rd works good. also, when stoped and at idle, it shifts pretty good between 1st and second.
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i don't think i've tried double clutching, i will tomorrow. i have noticed that when trying to downshift into 2nd, sometimes i can get it to go in if i push the shift lever against 1st gear and then into 2nd, it don't go into 2nd like it should, but sometimes it will go in.
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From: Dayton, Ohio
i don't think i've tried double clutching, i will tomorrow. i have noticed that when trying to downshift into 2nd, sometimes i can get it to go in if i push the shift lever against 1st gear and then into 2nd, it don't go into 2nd like it should, but sometimes it will go in.
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From: Alabama
when i had it apart, i wish i had exchanged the 1-2 syncros with the 3-4, but i didn't. like i said, they'er new, but i don't guess that means much, i may have to go back in and swap out the 1-2 syncro assembly (brass rings, hub, and slider) with the 3-4 if you think that might be the problem. i didn't know how to check out the countergear, but it looked good and spins freely and tight. do you think it could be part of the problem
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I don't know how the counter gear could cause this problem. Maybe some of the other members can chime in it.
I match up the brass with each gear before installing by pushing and turning the brass on the cone until I get the best locking I can for all 4 with 2nd and 3rd being the best.
I match up the brass with each gear before installing by pushing and turning the brass on the cone until I get the best locking I can for all 4 with 2nd and 3rd being the best.
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i haven't much experience to compair, but with the cluster out and moving the slider by hand, it seemed hard to brake the slider off center. like the 3 keys were holding too good and the slider got into a bind on these keys before it touched the brass rings. but, i looked everything over good and couldn't see anything i recognized as wrong.
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From: Dayton, Ohio
i haven't much experience to compair, but with the cluster out and moving the slider by hand, it seemed hard to brake the slider off center. like the 3 keys were holding too good and the slider got into a bind on these keys before it touched the brass rings. but, i looked everything over good and couldn't see anything i recognized as wrong.
Where are all the 4 speed guys tonight ?
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maybe 100 miles on the new brass. they were hard to turn when pushed against the hubs, i thought they might be too tight is why i tried the ligher oil, but i was just grasping for straws. is tighter better?
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I have heard of certain lubricants hindering the braking action of the brass syncho but don't know what they would be.
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i took it apart again and looked everything over again. the 2nd gear brass looked good, but i swaped it with another and put the thing back together again. i'm afraid to put it back into the car untill i find something i think is wrong. it's kind of hard to hold the rear shaft while turning the front shaft in netural. is this normal? do you think some of the spacing between parts is too close? i haven't found any instructions for this on any of the muncie rebuilds i've found on the webb.