1970: Possible Bent Lower A-arm




Thanks for the comments. I am interested in hearing any other opinions on this as well. Currently, the difference is approximately 1/2 inch with no shims in place on the upper a-arms.
Here are the facts:
1. The frame measured square when I purchased it. The body had no issues whatsoever going back down onto the new frame and suspension. All mounts lined up and the door gaps are fine.
2. The DS lower a-arm is not bent. It is within specs of a new one from Van Steel which I did not mount.
3. The lower front a-arm mount appears to have been re-welded, but it measures out the same in terms of angle compared to the PS.
4. I see no (and have never seen) any visable damage to the frame. No kinks, no waves, nothing to indicate an issue.
Any news on support spindle being ok? and top a-arm.
A probably not too strange question after all this but what if this 1/2" or 3/8" is at rear of car (or a combo of both..not hopefully!).
Looking in SAM.




Any news on support spindle being ok? and top a-arm.
A probably not too strange question after all this but what if this 1/2" or 3/8" is at rear of car (or a combo of both..not hopefully!).
Looking in SAM.

The 1/2 inch difference is definately 100% in front of the doors. It can be measured within the wheelwell (center of hub to back of wheelwell, center of hub to front of wheelwell, etc.) and really seems to be based on the lower a-arm or mount.
At this point, if I were to skew the lower a-arm mount probably a 1/8 - 1/4 inch, I feel that the wheelbase would be correct. Obviously, this is a big job and I would probably need to yank the engine.
Should I get this 1/2 inch difference squared up or should I get it over to the alignment shop to see if they can get it pretty close? The caster can probably be altered to "buy" a 1/16 of an inch without totally hosing the camber at this point.
Do you think guys think it will align?
Do you think it worth mounting the new a-arm (i know you wont be able to return it and be out over$100 or so )and see what happens.It's gonna be more than that with a competant alignment with the posibility of no improvement at the end.
Im thinking 1/2" at the extemety of a triangle could equate to say 3/32" at the pivot side still very hard to see or measure ???


SAM.




Do you think it worth mounting the new a-arm (i know you wont be able to return it and be out over$100 or so )and see what happens.It's gonna be more than that with a competant alignment with the posibility of no improvement at the end.
Im thinking 1/2" at the extemety of a triangle could equate to say 3/32" at the pivot side still very hard to see or measure ???


SAM.1. The original chassis was pretty rusted. I came accross the rebuilt chassis, measured it and went with it for the restoration. The old one would have need a fair amount of repair....although the wheelbase was 98 inches.
2. I think I am going to mount the new a-arm. I know this will void a return to Dan, but if it turns out with the same result, then I know the core is at least good which will get me $100 back. If the new arm fixes it, then I would be happy to be out the core if you know what I mean. I am about 95% confident it will not fix the issue based upon my measurements however.
Looking back at your photo of pivot shaft attachment bracket to frame.
It's been pointed out full seam weld to inner side.
But why not do outer side at same time? no indication on photo of grinding or weld.
Going back to inner side is there any indication of a grinding wheel touching the outa face of bracket if so this may indicate bracket was in situ ie. still attached to frame at time of weld and would possibly still be in align due to the X2 front bolts to top strap.
Looking at cross member towards the big fat rear retaining bolt there is an indentation similar to a spot weld or maybe not.THIS NEEDS negating against someone elses frame'
Whilst that is checked out the inner spot welds need comparing for size/ legth etc.
I realy think with a restored frame it would be reasonable to think a vette person may just have strengthened a week point before painting.Maybee worth looking at oposite side real careful for similar.
That indentation i mentined is getting near1/2".
Also unless its reflection both top a-arms powder coating dont look too old at all neither do the pivot shafts, nor does the passenger side lower a-arm though cant see the shaft there.
Now for today buddy it's ol weller 107 time.
GOOD LUCK FOR TODAY .............SAM.
Last edited by SARASOTA SAM; Oct 5, 2009 at 03:34 PM.




I am re-assembling this front end over the next couple of days and getting this 1970 off to an alignment/frame shop.
Any suggestions within the Detroit Metro area on a shop to help deal with this issue?
Does anyone have experience with Jakes Automotive in Sterling Heights?
Thanks
Good Luck!
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I will look him up.
BTW: with a long tape measure, what should be the distance from axle centers on each side? Next time I look at a C3 I intend to take a long, windup cloth tape measure. I'm almost afraid to measure my '74 coupe tonight




BTW: with a long tape measure, what should be the distance from axle centers on each side? Next time I look at a C3 I intend to take a long, windup cloth tape measure. I'm almost afraid to measure my '74 coupe tonight






