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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 07:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Hitchcock496
Pardon my ignorance, but what are the the rules of the 7 p's. Have not heard of that one.
I first heard that from my boss when I first came on the submarine many years ago. I put a banner up in the race shop where I work.

Prior, Proper, Planning, Prevents, ****, Poor, Performance
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by gkull
I've never understood the logic behind somebody doing an excellent motor buildup and then choke the crap out of the motors performance with some two bit exhaust system. I feel sorry for this 496

Cast iron, block hugger headers like in this picture, super long primary tube side pipes, or even nice headers and small duals. all these are examples of non-functional.

It is the total package that makes the difference
Well this is a street resto mod project I'm doing. I bought the engine from Mike Seay, a NHRA World champ in comp eliminator and the owner of Carolina Machine Engine Racing. It's a 11 to 1 compression, with aluminum rectangle port heads. It dynoed at 555hp and 589lbs. ft. From the angle of the pic it looks like I'm running block huggers but they are not. I bought the headers from stainless works and they are the same ones they put on the "King Ray" project car that was in a few vette mags a year ago. They are 1 7/8" primaries into 3" collectors that I have running through 3" inner dia. side pipes without baffles. I just wanted a cool cruiser that would be fun to jump on it every now and then, not a race car. But I appreciate your input as I'm just learning about hot rodding and I'll take all the info I can get. Can you tell me what would be a better exhaust set-up? What are you running in your 79? Thanks, Paul

Last edited by pletner; Sep 22, 2009 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 12:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pletner
Well this is a street resto mod project I'm doing. I bought the engine from Mike Seay, a NHRA World champ in comp eliminator and the owner of Carolina Machine Engine Racing. It's a 11 to 1 compression, with aluminum rectangle port heads. It dynoed at 555hp and 589lbs. ft. From the angle of the pic it looks like I'm running block huggers but they are not. I bought the headers from stainless works and they are the same ones they put on the "King Ray" project car that was in a few vette mags a year ago. They are 1 7/8" primaries into 3" collectors that I have running through 3" inner dia. side pipes without baffles. I just wanted a cool cruiser that would be fun to jump on it every now and then, not a race car. But I appreciate your input as I'm just learning about hot rodding and I'll take all the info I can get. Can you tell me what would be a better exhaust set-up? What are you running in your 79? Thanks, Paul
The answer on tuned header design is a ratio of primary header pipe diameter and length then merging together in a collector diameter and length. Ultimate headers use very specific specs with a modern "Merge collector" with a megaphone out let. which is pure racing.

Our street cars are a compromise of tuned primary length, collector, and least restrictive muffled system. You can look up header design on the net and find very good information.

The real difference between tuned headers and just pipes is additional free power for what ever you are running for a motor. Tuned length pipes actually create neg. pressure to evacuate the cylinders over some RPM range. Just big pipes make for a free flow system
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #24  
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It's a 11 to 1 compression, with aluminum rectangle port heads. It dynoed at 555hp and 589lbs. ft.

I should add that those numbers of more TQ than hp I don't see that often. Were those done with your entire muffler system and not some shop open dyno headers?
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:40 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by gkull
The answer on tuned header design is a ratio of primary header pipe diameter and length then merging together in a collector diameter and length. Ultimate headers use very specific specs with a modern "Merge collector" with a megaphone out let. which is pure racing.

Our street cars are a compromise of tuned primary length, collector, and least restrictive muffled system. You can look up header design on the net and find very good information.

The real difference between tuned headers and just pipes is additional free power for what ever you are running for a motor. Tuned length pipes actually create neg. pressure to evacuate the cylinders over some RPM range. Just big pipes make for a free flow system
Originally Posted by gkull
It's a 11 to 1 compression, with aluminum rectangle port heads. It dynoed at 555hp and 589lbs. ft.

I should add that those numbers of more TQ than hp I don't see that often. Were those done with your entire muffler system and not some shop open dyno headers?
Thanks for the header info, I'll read some more on the net! You're right, those dyno numbers were achieved on an engine dyno with shop open headers. The engine builder recomended that I use at least a 3" system (My car had side pipes, so that's why I'm running those).
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 10:39 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by pletner
Thanks for the header info, I'll read some more on the net! You're right, those dyno numbers were achieved on an engine dyno with shop open headers. The engine builder recomended that I use at least a 3" system (My car had side pipes, so that's why I'm running those).
I'm a mechanic and dyno operator at the shop. We used to use the shops open headers with how ever many cylinder O2 sensors and dial the motors in with the monitors. It is not a realistic number and the cars always had to be rejetted once the motor was installed in the car.

We have since tried to use or simulate the existing exhaust system
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by gkull
We have since tried to use or simulate the existing exhaust system
That's a good idea.
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