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Steering pulls after being worked on.

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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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Default Steering pulls after being worked on.

This morning I had the power steering control valve and the power assist cylinder replaced on my ’82. From there I took the car to have tires and alignment which was only a few blocks away. The power steering valve made a big improvement in the steering, tightening it up but now the car pulls to the left on the highway. This car has always tracked straight. I have called both shops explaining and telling them something is wrong but it seems to be turning into a finger pointing contest.

I saw the read out from the alignment machine and all appeared to be good (in the green) but I did not get a printout. Of course if the alignment was incorrect that could cause this but my question is if the power steering control valve was not adjusted for center after it was installed could this also cause the car to pull to the right or left?

The control valve is a rebuit GM.

At 60 mph on smooth straight hightway if I let go off the wheel it take about 2 seconds for the car to start crossing the center line.

With the car on the ground the steering wheel does not move when the car is started.

Hoping for a little direction from the experts and well experienced.

Thanks,
Andy

Last edited by AT-82Collectors; Sep 23, 2009 at 06:12 PM. Reason: additional information
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:15 PM
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Seems like the alignment shop should have picked up on this on the test drive and corrected it or got to the bottom of the problem. It's poor workmanship for them to give your car back in this condition and let you discover it. If they test drove it, they should have known.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Sounds like you need to balance the new control valve. If it's off, the car will turn itself one way or the other. Easy fix. If you don't have the instructions, I can post them for you.

Gary
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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Remove the end of the power steering CYLINDER from the BRACKET that is bolted to the underside of the frame rail. DO NOT REMOVE THE BRACKET...just the cylinder rod. Manually position the rod so it is in the center of travel and then crank the car and watch the rod and see if it moves in or out. From your description...i Ibet it will move OUT. If it moves at all at idle....the control valve will need to be adjusted....by removing the cap in the end of the control valve and carefully turning the nut so the rod does not move in or out....while the engine is running at idle. clock-wise will make the rod go out and CCW will make it go in. When adjusting the valve I turn the nut in and out and find the area where it goes in and out. there will be about 90+degrees of angle between the point where it goes in and then out....or about 20 minutes on the clock...so to speak. You will want to turn your socket so it is in the CENTER of these to points. That will center the valve.

The wheels will not turn when it is on the ground even if the valve is not balanced...but will turn your wheel while rolling. The power steering system does not have enough pressure to turn your wheels while sitting still. Much like manual steering...hard to start to turn your steering wheel while at a dead stop...but you can turn your steering wheel easier when the car starts to roll.

Best of luck.
"DUB"

Last edited by grandmastercorvette; Sep 24, 2009 at 06:09 PM. Reason: typo's
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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Thank you guys,

This shop did not test drive the Vette, I waited on it and they took it from the rack to the parking lot.

Gary please do post the instructions. I will do the adjustments if posible, if not I will take them to the shop that changed the valve.

Thanks for the help and quick reply,
Andy
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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Thanks "DUB" I will do the adjustment Saturday. That is what I needed!

Andy
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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Procedure isn't difficult.

Gary



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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 01:07 AM
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I found using a wrench with a socket on one end was easier to switch directions then a rachet
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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OOOOPS!
I should have added that I use a 1/4" drive mini breaker bar to do the turning of the nut. a ratchet it useless...it does not give you correct positions to gauge from. Socket wrench is also a good idea ...as long as the lines do not get in the way by how they are connected to the end of the control valve. Good luck and this an easy adjustment. to do yourself.
"DUB"

Last edited by grandmastercorvette; Sep 24, 2009 at 06:12 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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It sounds like you need to balance out the control valve. I did my 82 with the front tires off the ground and the engine running. when balanced, check by turning the wheel all the way to the right and watch for movement then all the way to left. there shouldn't be any movement, the wheels should stay in the position you turned them in.....
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks to all of you that offered suggestions and just to follow up on this,

I took the car back to the shop that replaced the valve. Hootisit that is exactly what the mechanic did to show me the valve was zeroed. There was no movement in the tires what so ever. From there I went back to the shop that aligned the car. They did realign the car and totally corrected the problem. When I asked the technician what he did he replied that he had to set the camber close to zero to stop the car from pulling to the left. He did test drive it this time and it does track straight now. I am just hoping the tires wear correctly.

As a side note the new control valve has made a major improvement in the steering of the car. Much tighter and does not have that little wandering when on uneven road or hitting bumps. Also the Firestone Indy 500's I put on seem to be much better tires than the Eagle 2's I had on it or the Goodrich's before that.

Andy
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