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With the tubes pulled out of the carb, make sure there is no caked up debris in the bottom of the casting. These carbs are notorious for that and very difficult to clean.
For the apt, use a starter tap, but don't go past the tapered first threads to give you an interference fit for a ss set screw.
Pic shows the bottom view.
You can make a special adjusting screw out of a bolt and mill or cutoff wheel.
cold fast idle around 1200 rpm, free idle park or neutral 900, in gear idle around 600.....
....better than previous with 1200 free idle, 350 in gear when lucky!
it's never gona be fantastic, this Q-Jet is 30 years old with 80k on it, some slack in the carb shaft bushings (secondary has slack too) plus a worn dizzy etc, so the free idle is going to wander a bit, but now it's so sweet and useable without having to stand on the gas and brake at the same time
....I wish I had done this to my 1979 403 Trans Am....wasn't as bad but getting there!
With the tubes pulled out of the carb, make sure there is no caked up debris in the bottom of the casting. These carbs are notorious for that and very difficult to clean.
For the apt, use a starter tap, but don't go past the tapered first threads to give you an interference fit for a ss set screw.
Pic shows the bottom view.
You can make a special adjusting screw out of a bolt and mill or cutoff wheel.
thanks for the advice, if she starts going off tune again, I may have to delve in there again
Glad to hear you got it fixed. When rereading your posts I realized that we wern't talking about the same restrictors. It was there, I just jumped to the wrong conclusion.
Drilling out the restrictor must give a better vacuum signal to the idle tube and the idle airbleed, allowing more fuel to flow. This combined with the enlarged idle screw holes all work together to give a strong vacuum signal, more fuel flow, and a good idle.