Static/straight line load is 300 lbs compressive force on the yokes, 300lbs tensile on the strut rods.
End-play rattle
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
End-play rattle
I replaced the strut rods in my 72 coupe and reset the camber to neutral. They were negative to about ½ inch or more. Now when I roll down the street and encounter any small bump the side yokes rattle in and out. Besides resetting the camber back out to way too much is there another solution. The end play is within specs according to the alignment guy. I looked at it and it isn’t much but enough to make noise.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
There is no endplay spec for yokes. If the yokes are worn it won't matter much. Did you replace the flanged washers on the diff end of the new strut rods? If not they will rattle in the bracket.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
What the alignment shop said was some play but normal. I used VB@P struts and they fit very tight with no play - tightened to torque specs from VB@P. I can make it rattle just by shaking the top of the tire.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
Yoke endplay under 050" is ok. More I would check closer. Keep in mind yoke endplay can be from yokes worn,posi setup, or posi case issues. Typically a combination of some or all. Original 72 yokes are pretty good and I've reused many 63-73 yokes with over 100k miles on them. The posi setup was the problem most of the time. How much endplay do you have? If you're over .125 then you may have them hitting the housing,this is more common with the 74-79's but I'd look at them.
Are you sure you're hearing the yokes? I've had yokes in my 69 worn over .125 and they didn't make any noise. I doubt the recent alignment would cause this,I'd look back at the new rods to be sure there isn't something there.
Are you sure you're hearing the yokes? I've had yokes in my 69 worn over .125 and they didn't make any noise. I doubt the recent alignment would cause this,I'd look back at the new rods to be sure there isn't something there.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
I can't get under the car until tomorrow but the end play is very little - .050 at most. Tomorrow I will get it back on stands and check the struts and look to see if the flanges on the side yokes are hitting the side of the case. That is what it looks like from what I can see with it on the ground. Spare tire is in the way.
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Team Owner
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From: Orange Park Florida
Jack that rabbit up, and put your hands at 9-3 Oclock on the tires, and with all your strength, try turning it in/out like it was a front end, you have much if any play in there, you got be baring the weight of bearing problems......
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
Roger - the shock mounts looked good when I took them out. I had very little problem getting them out but they were in solid. When I replaced them I had to draw them in with the nut and did torque them to 75#s. They are seated.
With the car on the ground I can with one hand pull on the top of the tire and cause the rattle. So I got as far under the back of the car, under the spare, and had my wife pull on the tire and the rattle is definitely coming from the end play of the side yoke. Really hard to guesstimate a number on the amount of play but less than 1/64".
It isn't much of a rattle but easy to hear even with magnaflows. I first heard it on my test drive after putting in the strut rods and my first thought was that I forgot to put the nut on one of the bolts somewhere. I drove home really slow.
With the car on the ground I can with one hand pull on the top of the tire and cause the rattle. So I got as far under the back of the car, under the spare, and had my wife pull on the tire and the rattle is definitely coming from the end play of the side yoke. Really hard to guesstimate a number on the amount of play but less than 1/64".
It isn't much of a rattle but easy to hear even with magnaflows. I first heard it on my test drive after putting in the strut rods and my first thought was that I forgot to put the nut on one of the bolts somewhere. I drove home really slow.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
Wheel bearings are new and tight. The strut rods are the last of the rear suspension and when I get around to installing the rack and pinion that I've had since April EVERY PIECE of the front and rear suspension will be new within about the last 1,000 miles (2 years or so).
Race Director
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From: Dayton, Ohio
With the car on the ground I can with one hand pull on the top of the tire and cause the rattle. So I got as far under the back of the car, under the spare, and had my wife pull on the tire and the rattle is definitely coming from the end play of the side yoke. Really hard to guesstimate a number on the amount of play but less than 1/64".
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
Roger, I don't think that before I changed the camber that I could.
Race Director
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From: Dayton, Ohio
I wonder if 0 camber or a little pos camber could make this happen.
Camber is pretty easy to change maybe you could put some neg in it and see if it stops.
Then if you feel really energetic you could throw some pos in and see if it gets worse.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 264
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From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
Problem solved - and as most respondents expected it wasn't the end-play.
After tracking down all of your very much appreciated suggestions I decided to take it all apart again. I didn't have to go far - the upper shock mount hole had elongated (actually very little) over the years. 60#s of torque apparently allowed it to slide through the scale and crud on the bracket and loosen its grip. I haven't fixed it yet but I did tighten the upper shock bolt with the air gun well beyond 60#s and noise gone.
I will either drill out the holes and bush them or weld a washer with the correct hole size to the bracket.
Thanks for the help.
After tracking down all of your very much appreciated suggestions I decided to take it all apart again. I didn't have to go far - the upper shock mount hole had elongated (actually very little) over the years. 60#s of torque apparently allowed it to slide through the scale and crud on the bracket and loosen its grip. I haven't fixed it yet but I did tighten the upper shock bolt with the air gun well beyond 60#s and noise gone.
I will either drill out the holes and bush them or weld a washer with the correct hole size to the bracket.
Thanks for the help.