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1974 overheating

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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #1  
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Default 1974 overheating

I bought a 1974 vette last year and it's driving me crazy.

I only drove it a couple miles the day I bought it, the rag joint was worn out.

I bought it and had it towed to a friend of mines shop to install several new parts that came with. mostly the new rack and pinion steering.
while I had it in the shop we noticed the clutch on the fan was worn out, so we decided to install a new single electric fan. I ended up having them do all kinds of work on this vette and it was in the shop for a couple months. When I picked it up and drove it home it was running hot before I got home, since then I have replaced the radiator with a new radiator from Eckler's, front spoiler, pulled the heads off being it has a sb 400 to check and see if the steam holes were bored, they were, but the old heads had some hair line cracks, so I decided to install some new dart heads and drilled the steam holes, replace thermostat with a 180 thermostat.
I have been thinking that it has to be the single electric fan is not doing the job, so I think I need a new shroud, seals and go back with a clutch fan. oh yeah, I was told the water pump was new when I bought ithe car, and when the shop installed the electric fan they cut the shroud in half and removed the top half, I guess for easy access.

I don't know what else to try...any ideas?
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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What do you call 'hot'? How do know that the indication is accurate and not gauge error?
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 01:14 PM
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it will red line (240) if I drive it long enough, usually it runs around 220, but it will steam over and pour out of the radiator overflow...
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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I've seen lots of discussion on this topic in many Forum posts. Much good information, but to me all overly complicated.

When I rebuilt the engine in my '74 (better than stock but nothing all that radical), I started experiencing excessive engine temperature. In my case it was all the time, not just at stoplights. It was worse on 100degree days than on 80 degree days.

Seemed simple to me. I installed a BeCool high capacity radiator. I still run the full shroud, standard mechanical fan, etc. All stock (except a Stewart water pump which was not changed.

BeCool stated that I would see a twenty degree drop in temperature. The were right on. Went from running right about 205-210 to about 185, which is where I want it.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:08 PM
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I wish, I would have spent the extra money and got a radiator from BeCool, I didn't know when I bought the stock one, I may do that now anyway, but would still like some more ideas.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 05:19 PM
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If your shroud is not sealed up you won't move much air through
it. It might be worth building a better fan shroud that will pull air
through the radiator more effectively. If the fan you have doesn't
pull enough cfm then you might have to up grade.

Just my two coins,
Riggs
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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Have you checked your timing?
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 06:20 PM
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I really think I need to order the new shroud and fan and see if that fixes the problem, if that don't then I will get a radiator from BeCool also.

The timing is a little off, it has a mild cam in it and I haven't got it dialed in yet, but it is close....not off much.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 03:35 AM
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I had real problems keeping my 383 cool - I installed a Dewitts radiator and 180 temp thermostat and never had a problem since. It bolted right in and looks stock

http://www.dewitts.com/
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 09:04 PM
  #10  
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I ordered a duel fan with shroud today, I hope I will have it by this weekend, I decided to go this way so I wouldn't lose horsepower by installing the factory type clutch fan. I will update when I get the new duel fan installed.


thanks for all the replies
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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The factory fan clutch ***'y does not 'cost horsepower'. It freewheels when not required, using maybe 1HP.
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