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Why are you using 43 plugs? Way to cold for street cars.....Try some racing fuel and see if your problem goes away......You cant really trust the gas stations as their out for a fast buck realizing that only a few cars really need higher octane gas as they laugh all the way to the bank....
While you have the distributor out do you have access to a Sun Distributor machine? The distributor might as you say have too an aggressive ignition curve although you say it ran well before. I have a similar engine 300hp- 327 w. the following curve
Start @ 800 RPM
13* @ 1700 RPM
26* @ 3100 RPM
I use BWD 112 hp points and a non emissions cap & rotor. The VAC is a B22, spark plugs are 5 heat range and initial timing 10* at 600 RPM.
Seafoam ingredients:
Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), pale oil, and naptha.
How could that possibly avoid pre-ignition?
The aim of seafoam is to remove carbon buildups in the combustion chamber, ( just like a cup of water in the carb does ), not to prevent pre-ignition.
Carbon promotes pre-ignition. Remove carbon and you have a chance to solve pre-ignition issues.
The aim of seafoam is to remove carbon buildups in the combustion chamber, ( just like a cup of water in the carb does ), not to prevent pre-ignition.
Carbon promotes pre-ignition. Remove carbon and you have a chance to solve pre-ignition issues.
It is not normal for a healthy SBC to accumulate deposits of any kind in the combustion chambers in sufficient quantity to induce pre-ignition. If seafoam or any deposit remover is required on a recurring basis (and not just a feel good placebo basis) the engine needs some serious help.
It is not normal for a healthy SBC to accumulate deposits of any kind in the combustion chambers in sufficient quantity to induce pre-ignition. If seafoam or any deposit remover is required on a recurring basis (and not just a feel good placebo basis) the engine needs some serious help.
I have had a customer with this problem, it turned out to be oil mist carry over from a poorly set up valve cover ventilation system. We replaced the PCV and the valve cover baffles and the air cleaner vent tube baffles, (basically stopped the ingress of oil mist into the intake tract) and the pinging stopped.
A good way to check, is to isolate the PCV ventilation lines from the intake tract temporarily to see if that stops the pinging.
Another theory, a bit out this time, is cam wear, if the exhaust lobe(s) gone, the dynamic compression ratio increases causing pinging.
just a little update, i got the spark knocking issue all cleared up. i solved 2 problems at once.
for what ever reason, the points/condenser went out. the car wouldnt start and i had no spark.
a new set of points/condenser got me a running car and cleared up all spark knock. except for a little knock at 35-40mph in 4th gear going up a hill. thats to be expected though.
i used points in the 70's and they were always a great hobby. back then they had things called "tune ups" which was points and plugs. the lead in the gas would ruin plugs in 10k or so. u know about points, completely obsolete, but still popular with guys that want to experience the "good old days" when there was nothing to do but fiddle with points. let's see how long they last