Help with Pinion Seal question
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
Help with Pinion Seal question
OK, I understand what 271 Loctite is, but what is the red stuff applied to this new seal.
"Grease the spring and seal ID"
And the grease on this was referred to as 'Old School #2'...is this just basic grease or what?
"Slap some old school #2 on the ID"
"Grease the spring and seal ID"
And the grease on this was referred to as 'Old School #2'...is this just basic grease or what?
"Slap some old school #2 on the ID"
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
The red stuff is high temp grease. It helps hold the spring in place in the rubber part of the seal. (among other things). The "no. 2" is Permatex gasket sealer. Smear it liberally on the splines prior to assembly. At least that's how I interpreted Gary's instructions. I did the job several months ago, and no leaks so far!
Temvette72
Temvette72
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Hope you know you have to tighten that pinion nut REALLY TIGHT to get the pinion bearing pre-load back into the assembly. I learned how to rebuild differentials after we changed the pinion seal on my friend's Camaro SS and drove about 5 miles down the road before the assembly let loose and the pinion gear climbed intot he Posi case. Luckilly we didn't do too much damage and all was saved but, it was a THRASH as he was on Spring Break from college and we had 2 days to properly repair our mistake. We had to quickly "educate" ourselves with the Chevy Service manual and do the job properly. Sometimes a "calibrated hand" and a BIG IMPACT wrench can get the pinion nut back into the ballpark but, job is best left for the expirienced mechanic (differential drag should have been checked before disassembly and returned to that value after reassembly.)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
If you look close, there's a little spring around the OD of the rubber- that spring IS part of the seal. Without that grease, that sping can pop off when you drive the seal in. And then no seal. I'd finish what they started and pack that cavity FULL.
#2 Permatex or equivalent on the splines.
#2 Permatex or equivalent on the splines.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
Hope you know you have to tighten that pinion nut REALLY TIGHT to get the pinion bearing pre-load back into the assembly. I learned how to rebuild differentials after we changed the pinion seal on my friend's Camaro SS and drove about 5 miles down the road before the assembly let loose and the pinion gear climbed intot he Posi case. Luckilly we didn't do too much damage and all was saved but, it was a THRASH as he was on Spring Break from college and we had 2 days to properly repair our mistake. We had to quickly "educate" ourselves with the Chevy Service manual and do the job properly. Sometimes a "calibrated hand" and a BIG IMPACT wrench can get the pinion nut back into the ballpark but, job is best left for the expirienced mechanic (differential drag should have been checked before disassembly and returned to that value after reassembly.)
Got it.
*NOTE* I should not have made this statement.....I was wrong for making such a rude reply to his post. I apologize.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Oct 11, 2009 at 09:15 AM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
As per Gary's paper, the preferred method of torquing the pinion nut is to measure the drag when rotating the flange. He also shows how to grind a witness mark on the nut and pinion. After the seal is installed, you simply line up the witness marks. The danger is overtightening, and crushing the "crush sleeve" too much. Therefore, using an impact wrench is probably not a good idea. I used a big breaker bar and very controlled pressure to get the nut in the right spot. You don't have to be a gorilla to do it, but a little strength helps. (Remember, with a long enough lever and a fulcrum, you can move the earth!).
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
As per Gary's paper, the preferred method of torquing the pinion nut is to measure the drag when rotating the flange. He also shows how to grind a witness mark on the nut and pinion. After the seal is installed, you simply line up the witness marks. The danger is overtightening, and crushing the "crush sleeve" too much. Therefore, using an impact wrench is probably not a good idea. I used a big breaker bar and very controlled pressure to get the nut in the right spot. You don't have to be a gorilla to do it, but a little strength helps. (Remember, with a long enough lever and a fulcrum, you can move the earth!).
Thanks again,
Dave
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
I'd vote for the Ratech solid sleeve & shim in place of the crush sleeve. I think I paid $34(?) and was able to dial in the rotational drag exactly where I wanted it without a big bar or impact gun. I've never set up a diff using a crush sleeve, but what I read about it scared me enough to make me order the spacer/shim kit...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
Differential Update
I removed the drive shaft and looked at the pinion nut....not much room there, so I decided to remove the differential from the car. I have it out and made the witness marks, removed the nut, pinion, and old seal.
Now I need to get a new seal.
Now I need to get a new seal.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
It's always something else
Well, this old Florida retiree got the differential out of his '71 and back in all by himself. Thanks to Gary's instructions, replacing the seal went well with no problems. I didn't even need to get out the sawzall, all the bolts and nuts came apart with no problems.
But, as you guys know, one thing leads to another. When I removed the right side half shaft, I noticed that the wheel was hard to turn. My first thought was bearings, but it turned out to be 2 broken springs (top & bottom) in the parking brake assembly. I could see the brake adjustment assembly moving when looking into the adjustment hole as I turned the rotor, so I new then that the shoes were locking up. Then, as I turned the rotor some more, I could see the broken end of the spring. Mine still had the factory rivets, so I had to drill those out to get the rotor off.
I'm glad I caught this when I did. I might as well replace the parking brake springs on the other side too just to be safe. The original brake shoes still look good.
But, as you guys know, one thing leads to another. When I removed the right side half shaft, I noticed that the wheel was hard to turn. My first thought was bearings, but it turned out to be 2 broken springs (top & bottom) in the parking brake assembly. I could see the brake adjustment assembly moving when looking into the adjustment hole as I turned the rotor, so I new then that the shoes were locking up. Then, as I turned the rotor some more, I could see the broken end of the spring. Mine still had the factory rivets, so I had to drill those out to get the rotor off.
I'm glad I caught this when I did. I might as well replace the parking brake springs on the other side too just to be safe. The original brake shoes still look good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Sorry that I tried to give you some helpful advice, good luck with your project. I was assisting my friend, we were 18-20 years old, not the most knowledgeable people in the world at the time, presently, either one of us have a much better idea of what it takes to make a Vette run well. Old age and trechery will overcome youthful exhuberance any day (sometimes knowledge is gained through mistakes, those are the lessons you tend to keep for the rest of your life.)
Last edited by Solid LT1; Oct 11, 2009 at 12:17 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,400
Likes: 1,226
From: Tampa Florida
Sorry that I tried to give you some helpful advice, good luck with your project. I was assisting my friend, we were 18-20 years old, not the most knowledgeable people in the world at the time, presently, either one of us have a much better idea of what it takes to make a Vette run well. Old age and trechery will overcome youthful exhuberance any day (sometimes knowledge is gained through mistakes, those are the lessons you tend to keep for the rest of your life.)
I am fortunate to have this forum to gain valuable information and experiences from other Corvette owners, as well as from those in the automobile repair business.
Please forgive me for making that comment, I shouldn't have responded in that manner.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Oct 11, 2009 at 09:11 AM.
