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In the past there has been many topics on tire size and back spacing . This is a pic of a stock steel rim and offset trailing arm. Hope it answers some questions. the tire is 255-60-15 Rick
I have always wondered....with offset trailing arms, you have to run a shorter halfshaft...correct?? if so, where do you get these??
As far as the offset trailing arm, where is the e-brake bracket?? Do they move it elsewhere so it allows for even more clearance?
Even if not, it looks like you at least 2 more inches there :cheers:
Looks like to me from what I remember...it allows about 1.25 inches more clearance...maybe as little as 3/4 inch....over and above just moving the e brake bracket on the stock arms....
Chris, no, the original half shaft is retained. I guess you can't see it the pic ,but, e-brake cable is relocated. These were ordered from Elecklers and are a direct bolt in. Plus their cool :)
From: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Trailing arm clearness - pic (faster69)
Will someone further this information and show just how much backspace and how big a tire will go with the offset T-Arms.
I am wanting to go wide in the rear myself. The wheels I am looking at are Wheel Vintiques 90 series Billet Rallye in 17". It shows a 17" X 9 1/2" with 4 3/4 " or 6" Back Space. Which will it clear without the Offset T-Arms? Which will it clear with the Offset T-Arms?
How much tire will they take? Will a 275 or a 285 fit ?
I think someone was wanting to put together a space for wheels avaliable for C-3s. How about a "What Fits Site".
My understanding is you can run up to 10" wheels with neutral offset (i.e. 5" backspacing) on these arms without clearance problems.
The parking brake cable goes in the bracket located on the top of the arm (see picture in 1st post) - on the back of hte arm is the brake line connector.
I had 295-50-15 TA radials with 8.5 inch centerlines and 5 inch back spacing under the fender well with offset trailing arms.
I now have 305s with a little more work.
I spoke with the people at VB&P at the annual Vette show this past weekend, about their offset trailing arms. They don't make a narrower sway bar, but they can make a narrower composite spring that will allow you to get the most back spacing the offset arms allow. I asked about the sway bar, but the gentleman said that with the newer style duel mount rear composite spring, the sway bar is not really needed. These were not my words, but the rep from VB&P. He said most people just get the duel mount, narrowed spring and remove the sway bar.
I asked about the sway bar, but the gentleman said that with the newer style duel mount rear composite spring, the sway bar is not really needed. These were not my words, but the rep from VB&P. He said most people just get the duel mount, narrowed spring and remove the sway bar.
I heard that too but I'm having trouble understanding the logic. The dual mount does nothing to replace the anti-roll properties of a sway bar. Sure, if you want maximum sidewall clearance, the sway bar has to go but you also are giving up something important in order to do it.
Can someone shed some light on why the sway bar would be expendable?
As I look at the offset T-arms, it appears that they would push the wheel out a little. Is this true? If not, why? Just trying to understand a little more about them.
As I look at the offset T-arms, it appears that they would push the wheel out a little. Is this true? If not, why? Just trying to understand a little more about them.
Sway bars work best on the front of rear-wheel-drive cars and on the rear of front-wheel drive cars. That way they don't lift a drive wheel in hard cornering. I learned that 30 years ago from a mini-Cooper driver. The tip helped me win the state autocross championship.
I went with HD trailing arms (not offsett) years ago because: I didn't have T-Arm clearance problems. I could only get about my fingers inbetween the tire wall bulge and the upper frame rail. Once with 275/60/15 on 8.5/15 rims with 4.5 bs I bottomed out so hard that the frame rail got buffed up from tire rub. I got rid of the 275/60's way to tall and handling suffered anyway.
Im with GKULL on this one, I think the limiting factor is the frame rail. When I bought my car it had 295 or 275 wide tires that were WAY too beefy. When I took em off the frame rail was polished where the tires had rubbed, probably during cornering. I am now running 255/45/17 on 17X8 with 4inch backspace wheel and there appears to be room for maybe an inch more backspace, maybe! I moved my parking brake bracket when I rebuilt the trailing arms so there is no interference there. The next closest thing is the leaf spring and the sway bar. I may in the future go to 17X9.5 w 5inch bs but I will have to do a lot of checking first, and probably buy a shortened leaf spring (which vette brakes really needs to do a better job of advertising...pisses me off buying something twice!). May even try to talk a local shop into test fitting a wheel. I don't know but maybe the whole offset trailing arm is a marketing thing.