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I remember doing this years ago, is it still required today with the higher quality heads and valves that are available? what are the pro's and con's of doing this?
Sure, every valve job I do. I have some really nice valve & seat tools, but the last thing I do is lap 'em in for a perfect seal. Probably not needed, but I'm old school.
I remember doing this years ago, is it still required today with the higher quality heads and valves that are available? what are the pro's and con's of doing this?
A big yes on this and my shop turns out about five sets of heads a day and all are lapped after grinding with an interference angle of 1 degree
I do it on every motorcycle motor I build...I have gotten heads back from the best head machinest in the country and do a leak test and had them leak....A couple hours with 2 stages of lapping(medium then fine compounds) they seal up tight as a drum and I usually end up with less then 2% leak down.....This is on a 1300cc that makes 430+hp....
I would HOPE that true engine builders/head builders are still lapping em.
Holy Jesus & Mary, how does one hold on to such a beast? Power to weight ratio oughta be pretty good too... I had a Kawasaki two stroke 750 triple that I thought was fast, but your in a 'nother galaxie...
I do it on every motorcycle motor I build...I have gotten heads back from the best head machinest in the country and do a leak test and had them leak....A couple hours with 2 stages of lapping(medium then fine compounds) they seal up tight as a drum and I usually end up with less then 2% leak down.....This is on a 1300cc that makes 430+hp....
I would HOPE that true engine builders/head builders are still lapping em.
I remember that suction cup, hand-driven wooden handle tool for my motorcyles. Pretty crude but darn they sure got things down to no leakage. The years do fly by.
just had my heads done ,i had 175 compression before. now i have 150 to 170 all over the place.when i asked the machine shop why?????? i was told because he did not lap in the valves.that he dosent do it on street machines because they seat themselves after driving . i would have rather paid the difference and had it right from the jump!
I remember that suction cup, hand-driven wooden handle tool for my motorcyles. Pretty crude but darn they sure got things down to no leakage. The years do fly by.[/QUOTE]
I am glad that is one thing my Dad taught me. It can make your hands pretty tender after a while but the results are priceless. Kinda goes back to that thing about new blubs that don't burn and new spark plugs that don't fire. If you do it then you know and the guess work is gone! And you bet your b--t the years fly by!!
I remember that suction cup, hand-driven wooden handle tool for my motorcyles. Pretty crude but darn they sure got things down to no leakage. The years do fly by.
Yep, thats still how I do it...They do make a tool with a suction cup on one end and a little hand crank gearbox assy on the other end....just turn the crank and the shaft spins back and forth to lap the valves. I still just use the old hand method with the wooden handle suction cup. Very time consuming but it works well. You have to lap the valves to get the seats to seal up 100% in my opinion.
Wrencher,
These little 1300cc engines are in Suzuki Hayabusa sport bikes, we have them fully built with forged goodies, studs etc and mine has a t3/T4 turbo on it. 28lbs of boost makes 435rwhp. I have only actually rode it with about 18lbs(around 340-350rwhp).... I ran 225mph on it at the Texas Mile back in March and this past friday night I went 8.97@166mph in the 1/4 with only 14lbs of boost and a crappy front half...it should go 8.60s once I learn to ride it...thats BEFORE I turn the boost up....