Water pump and intake bolt size
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 281
From: New York
Water pump and intake bolt size
I just put in a new engine. Took it out for the first shakedown run. After 40 years the heater core finally started to leak. Since the car is never driven in the winter, for now, I just want to disconnect the hoses and put brass bolts in the intake and water pump, bypassing the heater core. Not that I think it makes any difference, but the intake is an Edelbrook RPM Performer manifold.
Does anyone know the thread size for this? I think they are ½" pipe thread, but want to be sure. Later, I’ll search for threads on how to replace a heater core on a 1969 with air conditioning. My guess is it will not be easy.
Does anyone know the thread size for this? I think they are ½" pipe thread, but want to be sure. Later, I’ll search for threads on how to replace a heater core on a 1969 with air conditioning. My guess is it will not be easy.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
1/2" pipe thread is correct. and changing out a heater core is not really that bad. I have done many of them and the main issue...when you go to install the heater core is to make sure that the solder joints are solid where the tubes are soldered to the main core.
I also buy the heater hoses that have a "L" or "J" end on one end so when you connect these hoses to the core. The hoses are already beginning to bend towards to where they need to go and be connected to the engine and other components. The pre-molded ends aid in not putting a strain on the tubes of the core. Sometimes using bulk hose can cause the hoses to dip down lower than sometimes needed...or desired. But if you are lucky...and get the end of the bulk hose box...where the hose is already starting to bend...you can use that...like I have done in the past.
You can also get a 3/4" to 5/8" I.D. unionnor coupling and join your hoses together ...instead of removing the fittings. So if you are planning on doing the heater core...you do not have to hassle with the plugs.
"DUB"
I also buy the heater hoses that have a "L" or "J" end on one end so when you connect these hoses to the core. The hoses are already beginning to bend towards to where they need to go and be connected to the engine and other components. The pre-molded ends aid in not putting a strain on the tubes of the core. Sometimes using bulk hose can cause the hoses to dip down lower than sometimes needed...or desired. But if you are lucky...and get the end of the bulk hose box...where the hose is already starting to bend...you can use that...like I have done in the past.
You can also get a 3/4" to 5/8" I.D. unionnor coupling and join your hoses together ...instead of removing the fittings. So if you are planning on doing the heater core...you do not have to hassle with the plugs.
"DUB"
