Halloween treat, my driver’s side trailing arm bolt came off as designed.

I had intentions last Monday to take a Dragon Run, but upon bleeding my brakes I discovered my rear calipers leaking which lead to a project I've wanted to take on for some time. Unbolting the drivers side components didn't take too much time, but getting the bolt slid out did.

Questions.
I can't imagine the bolt being that easy to get in during assembly; any tricks?

It's been a while since I've posted; here goes.
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When you put the bolt back in, set the T/A in place, then use a coathanger to fish a string thru the frame and T/A. Tie the string thru the cotter key hole and work it back in.

I did it the hard way. I set the T/A in and worked the bolt back in with a long needle nose pliers and lots of real bad words.

I hope the right comes out as easy.

 

Yep - needle nose, cursing and beer lube.

Lastly, if you don't have the removable shims, modify your originals so they can be easliy slid out otherwise most alignment shops won't touch the car or you get billed for an extra few hours and one angry alignment guy! I cut mine with an angle grinder then grinding wheel.

 

Thanks Guys. I do hope the passenger side comes out as easy. Hopefully, I'll get it out sometime next weekend. I'll post results.

 

Good news. The passenger TA came out just as easy as the driver's side. I started to take the TA apart, but I can't seem to get the spindle assembly off of the TA.

Here's an image of where I'm at in the process.

Do I need to remove the cotter-key and nut to separate?

 

Yes, you'll need to remove the cotter pin and nut to proceed, but what are you trying to do?

Have you got all the proper tools (including the setup jig) and a press to do this properly?

 

All I want to do is swap out my stock TA's with the off-sets. Not looking to rebuild the spindles.

I didn't think I would need special tools to just seperate the spindles from the TA's

 

Yup, you'll need to strip them completely, most likely the bearings will be damaged during disass'y and checking clearances is mandatory when reassembling.

 

Thanks Mike. I found these instructions on the VanSteel site. Looks like the cotter key and nut needs to come off
Removal – Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly
In all: 7 nuts, 6 bolts & 2 clips
Before starting
Note that T-Arm does not have to be removed. This avoids wasted time
and many potential problems.
Also, caliper does not have to be disconnected.
Remove wheel, after very securely supporting frame on jack stands.
Remove rivets. Mark the right rotor if both are removed. If rotor rivets
have not previously been removed, you will need to drill them out. Use 1/4"
drill and drill down 1/2" deep in center of each rivet. Then use a 3/8" drill
bit to remove rivet head. It may be necessary to hammer rivet inward to
break the rotor loose.
Disconnect cable. Gently grasp ball on cable end with wire cutters and pry
ball back out of lever. Tap lever all the way back.
Disconnect shock. Jack up outer end of spring or T-Arm to remove tension
from shock absorber. Remove nut and both washers before prying off lower
end of shock, being careful not to dent shock.
Remove shock mount. Lower jack. Remove cotter pin, clean and oil exposed
threads, and then remove nut, 15/16 socket. Use a tie rod end splitter
or Van Steel’s Shock Mount Remover to break SM loose. SM is usually
rust-seized, so do not hammer on threads or nut. If removal is not possible,
mark camber washer and disconnect other end of strut rod. Ship spindlesupport
assembly with strut rod.
Unbolt axle flange. Suggestions: use 5/8 spark plug socket with breaker
bar and tap socket onto head of bolt to ensure full contact. To keep rotor
from turning, insert a tool into rotor webs near caliper. After unbolting axle
flange, tie it up to the frame.
Remove spindle flange. Remove cotter pin and spindle nut, 1-1/16" socket.Slide flange off spindle.
Unbolt caliper. Suggestions: use 5/8 spark plug socket, 1/2" breaker bar,
and gloves (to protect hands when bolts break loose). Remove flex hose clip
at T-Arm bracket. As caliper is lifted off the rotor, insert 15/16 socket or
similar width object between pads. Guide tubing through bracket and tie
caliper up against frame.
Remove rotor. If both rotors are to be removed, mark the right rotor and
spindle. If parking brakes prevent rotor removal, back off their adjuster by
inserting a screw driver through the rotor’s access hole to contact adjuster’s
star wheel, and push down on handle.
Remove parking brake shoes. Insert thin screw driver through opening
at top of PB shoe and pry out one end of top spring. Pry center of shoe out
from behind spindle. Use pliers to grasp and push in on retaining clip while
rotating anchor pin with needle-nose pliers.
Separate assembly from T-Arm. Clean and oil threads, then remove
(4) nuts with 9/16 box wrench. It may be necessary to tap the support
with a hammer or wedge a screw driver between it and T-Arm.
Do not attempt to press or hammer spindle out of support. The inner
bearing race becomes tightly bonded to it and conventional means of removal
usually ruin the spindle.

What's the spindle flange? I wish I had a exploded view of the TA assembly with labels

 

The spindle flange is in your pic with the four bolts in it



You really should think about rebuilding them and not just swapping over. Here's a pictorial

http://blog.scottsvettetalk.com/2007...m-rebuild.aspx

 

Thanks Mike. I'll take them apart; I'm swimming in unfamiliar waters.
Have a good Thanksgiving.

 

Thanks. Canada's Thanksgiving is in October.

 

I drilled a 1/8" hole out on the tapered tip and used some monofilament line to pull the bolts through. If you use the cotter pin holes depending on the size of the line it will want to bind up on the bushing wall because of limited clearance between the bolt and the bushing wall.

You probably have the slotted shims as the cotter pin that retains them is visible. Buy a good set of stainless steel shims and throw the old rusty original steel ones in the scrap metal pile.

 

Is that a pink Corvette?


Scott

 

I'd love to do the Dragon sometime. Some of the local Mt. Juliet vette guys go in February when the bikes aren't out. I've almost got my car to the point where I could make that run . . . well, except for not having a heater.

I did my brakes, TAs and suspension last year. I got lucky I guess, everything came out and went back in pretty easy. Good luck!!!!

 

Best ask Santa for a new monitor.

 

You should do it, the Dragon, sometime. Post up in the Southeast Region Events page if you decide to make a February run.

I also don't have a heater. or a good top.

 

The 1 1/16 nut came off easy and I was able to bang the 4 bolts out after using some PB Blaster to pry the spindle assemby from the stock TA.



New question, should I use the original 4 bolts that came off the stock TA with the new off-set trailing arm?

 

I had all bolts, studs etc. changed.

 

Back from 2009. 2011, I have new wilwood brakes and rotors, thanks Nick; strut rods with heim joints, stainless steel TA shims. Now is the time to get crackin. Need to get to the mountains.

Pics on the way. Questions to follow.




To bad these will be hidden behind the rally wheels.