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I guess just take your time and follow the VBP directions. I put on a similar suspension kit from them a few years back.
For each step, I found it beneficial to review the entire procedure and mentally go through what needs to be done. Then make sure you have all the tools ready so you don't waste time finding the right one. If you need special tools to take apart things like ball joints or steering parts, you can usually rent them for free from the local parts store.
I put the VBP performance plus suspension package on my '79 about a year ago. I did the rear first and then did the front. They provided a dvd which covered installation of everything in the package.
If you didn't get the dvd you might want to contact them to see if it is still available. It was extremely helpful to me.
See the archived article by John Greenwood entitled Vette Improvement Program (VIP). See the section on suspension for instructions on how to set ride height for best performance.
The VBP Arms locate the rubber frame bumper in a different location from the stock arms and it should be trimmed to allow full suspension travel when the front end is lowered.
Start with the front spring on the softest setting to start with.
Its simple, all that stuff bolts right on. An impact is a real big help on this job. Last one I did the front end took about 6 hrs start to finish, about the same for the rear. If you have not taken it apart yet, take a pressure washer to it first and clean it up as best as you can. Makes the job a lot neater. Good luck, post some pics
Thanks for all the input. I pressure washed this weekend and then put on some PB Blaster on all the parts. I have a rear main leak so I have been draining the pan for a couple of days and will replace the seal while the suspension is off. Hoping the weather will stay nice for a few days. 74 and sunny today.
Due to a variety of issues I'm just getting to installing the kit. I can't get the upper A arm on the studs. It hits the fan shroud, any suggestions? Did you have to cut your shroud?
Is it true a C3 will handle like a C5 after the installation of this suspension?
I owned a 71 for 23 years and tried most every combination including composite springs on it. I improved the ride a lot but it is no where near the ride quality of the C5 I now own. Remember, the C3 suspension was first used on C2 and was designed in the late 50's. The C5 suspension was designed in the mid 90's - almost 40 years later.
The video only shows the lower A arm and spring installation. I have turned the A arms and pushed the fan shroud as far as I can. I guess its time for the Dremmel.
The video only shows the lower A arm and spring installation. I have turned the A arms and pushed the fan shroud as far as I can. I guess its time for the Dremmel.
You can wiggle the 2 studs loose and pop them out. That's the trick.
-W
PS: Also, keep your front A-arm assemblies. Sandblast and paint them and re-assemble them with new bushings and factory style ball joints.
Zip is getting $1200 for a repop set of four. Properly marketed, you outta be able to get at least $800 for your pulls if you do a good enough job on them. Just keep them 100% original.
Last edited by Clams Canino; May 30, 2010 at 06:04 PM.
Not sure if the exact year matters, but on my 76', I got the bolts through on the new upper arms with a little jiggling, choice four letter words, and then some more aggressive procedures. It was the passenger side that was the worst, drivers side went in no problem. No cutting of the fan shroud had to be done. Just patience, and a lot of different positions before finding the one that was "just right".
I just put that suspension on my 75, as someone said before... Loosen up the bolts and push them back a little and the upper control arm will fit right in and then push the bolts back through. Once you get the bolts loose its pretty easy.
No cutting of the fan shroud had to be done. Just patience, and a lot of different positions before finding the one that was "just right".
No cutting of the fan shroud should ever be done!!
At worst, in a moment of defeat, you would remove it and put it back. But there is no way to ever need to cut your fan shroud.
Thanks for the help from everyone. I feel like a real dummy, I thought the bolts/studs were welded where the A arms bolted on. They are knurled like a wheel stud. I was able to tap them out so I replaced them with new grade 8 bolts and the A Arms fit right in.