Deep into the project of replacing my body mounts, I found out that the number three mount on the drivers side behind the door is rotted clean out. The rest of the mounts on both sides are fine. What happened is that the previous owner broke the fiberglass shield that goes right below the access hole to keep water from getting on the frame. All the other bolts are loose or out, and I need to get this project finished. This is the last thing that I have to do to be able to drive this car. Just finished a complete rear end restore this is all I have left. Please help!!
thanks,
Joe

 

I do believe you'll need a new nut cage welded on. Unlike the rear mounts (#4 and #8) which can be dealt with without welding on new cages cause you can catch a nut on them, 2's, 3's, 6's and #7, don't work that way. Others please chime in.

ps. you mean just the nut cage is rotted don't ya - and not also that section of frame - cause that's REAL trouble.

 

The part on the frame with the nut cage is fine, but the part that is bonded to the fiberglass is rotted out.... Any suggestions?

 

Do you mean the metal channel the is rivited to the body?



Mine were not too bad. I made metal plates for top and bottom and seam sealed it all together. Mind you i have the body off the frame at this point too which made it easier.

 

Ouch, can't help you on that one. For anyones reference, this is #3

 

I had to replace my rocker channels because they rusted out. You will need to weld in the rear insert only but the body does have to be raised to do that.
Rocker channel repair

 

jcjustice1,
Post a photo...so I (we) can see what you have going on. I have repaired this area before...but need to see what you see.
"DUB"

 

I think that you and I are on the same page. I will put up pictures soon. The rear section that needs to be welded in where do I get that from?
thanks for all the help everyone!

 

I could not figure out how to put pictures on the post so I made the picture my profile picture. Let me know what you think please!
thanks!!!

 

jcjustice,
I (we) may need a better photo. The rust appears to be extensive...but it is had to tell in the photo what I am looking at because I ...for myself...need more pictures and one that is a bit further away so I can get a reference to the problem.

To post a photo, click on "go advanced"...beneath the "quick reply" area when you respond to a post.

When that screeen comes up. In the upper toolbar, you will see a "smiley face"...to the right of it is a "paperclip". Click on that and then the attachment screen will come up so you can insert your photo file(s).
"DUB"

 

DUB, I believe that only works for supporting vendors, the regular members must use a photo hosting site. this is a pretty good tutorial.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/help...al-inside.html

or here

http://photos.imageevent.com/durango...g%20Images.pdf

 

That part of the body tends to rust out. I ended up cutting the access hole larger and cutting the cap off the frame end to get in there. You can buy a repair panel that goes in there.

 

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ice1/jk462.jpg

 

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ice1/jk471.jpg
http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ice1/jk463.jpg
http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ice1/jk463.jpg

Finally figured out how to post pictures thanks for the info on how to do it, but I still need any suggestions about repairing this mount without taking the body off?
thanks
joe

 

If you copy and paste the IMG code from photobucket, the actual picture will show up.

 

Mine are rusted out at each hole before and after door, also the channel where the rocker mouldings mount.My thoughts were to buy the replacement channels and cut the length on the inside of the new channel, remove the rusted out section on the outside rocker area with a cutoff wheel, then slide the new channel into it (locating body mounting holes) and plug weld them in place. I'd be sandwiching it between the old channel and the removed outer rocker area. It would be a long tiring repair but what else can I do? The body is off the frame.

Any suggestions?

 

Without detailed photo's of the damage...eventhough your description was great....Doing it the way you are thinking will cause the new part to be set down further than the original...due to keeping the rusted steel at the body mount area...which in itself can be a problem if you are trying to weld to rusty,thin metal...and not get a good solid weld.

This can throw off your rocker panel alignment....due the new panel being set down and back from where it needs to be...originally.

This area is always a problem for me...because depending on how much rust has eaten away at the steel structure..."patching" it up is a royal pain...unless fiberglass panels are removed and the body supported correectly...so new parts can be installed and welded...and rust prevention chemicals can be applied...so this problem does not occur again. Any time the 'birdcage" has been damaged...correct repairs can be a nightmare in time and effort.

"DUB"

 

There is a way to do it without removing the body. But the body will have to be lifted up enough...and shims that were used may need to be discarded due to adding in re-inforcement plate(s)...that will "sandwich" with each other and the mount. Which in istelf..can be a pain...in the backside. My idea is a temporary fix...due to the amount of rust...that unless it is stopped ...will keep eating away metal over time. Long time repair will require the body coming off....and more than likely..some panels may need to be removed.

Call me and I will give you my temp fix...which could last for many years...but it all depends on how strong the metal is at the area where the body mount bushing is located. If the metal is weak and thin...then my idea will not work...and will be a waste of time.

I do not have a "crystal ball" or a "magic wand"...and "side-stepping" a repair that requires dis-assembly and parts removal to get it "right"...IS YOUR CHOICE. Sometimes...things are what they are...and require proper repair procedures to maintain structural integrity. Keep this in mind...when making your decision.

"DUB" (704)394-5150 EST M-F 8:30-5:00

 

I appreciate all the help with this. That is exactly what I am looking for a quick fix that will last a couple of years until I am able to afford to remove the entire body. I will be contacting you soon.
thanks
joe

 

I hear what you're saying Grandmaster. I do have the body off the frame, but I am very hesitant to remove all the fiberglass to repair this area. I beleive you are talking about removing fiberglass from the sills down, forward and backwards to the area where the 2 mounts are. That's a helluva lot of damage in itself self-inflicted and since I'm more well versed in metal fabrication, and very much a learning stage novice (getting much better every day) on repairing fiberglass that will not appear repaired, my ideas were to deal with the rust without disturbing the fiberglass too much.

I think that what you are saying is that I would be mounting the body higher if I do the repair by sandwiching a new channel in there. I agree. And what I'm not sure of is if the channel would sit in there perfectly flat- in a perfect world- just adding the thickness of the channel itself to the overall height the body would sit higher on the frame. So it's well taken that if I were to repair it would be better to make metal plates and weld them into the rusted area far enough to get to solid metal and as flush as possible.

My channels are like pictures on this very posting, just rusted at each hole. Mine are not as bad as some of these pictures show. But hey do have an added bad spot where the rocker moulding screws are, maybe a 6-8" area. I won't be removing the whole channel for this since it's only purpose is to mount the mouldings. I'll just cut out the area with a muffler cutter with a 3" cutoff wheel, use a piece of new channel and weld in.

I do intend to remove as much scale and loose surface rust and spray the entire repair with POR-15 and hand brush the inner bolt mounting areas as well.

I also thought about the criticality of the location of the holes themselves in correspondence to the frame mounts. In fact, that's why I first thought of a channel insert idea so I know I'd be in the right locations. I will buy a whole new channel anyway to use as a guide for location before using them for the pieces I need. I got to wonder, considering the marginal quality of replacement parts were for my Chevelle restoration, how close the holes will be on those, eh? Guess that's a subject for a different post!

Thanks for your ideas on this and you've added to my concerns and will seriously consider what you wrote before coming to a final plan for repairs. Pleas feel free to write back!