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Not trying to split hairs here,
but I get the 7 qt winged pans from Speedway for less than a 100 bucks, that fit perfectly, don't interfere with anything and have baffles, 7 trap doors and scrapers built in.
I only checked to make sure the scraper didn't hit anything.
Having .015 clearance is tight, forget 7 hours.
My understanding is that they merely trap the oil that is being released and slung by the rotating assembly. That should get the vast majority of it.
To demonstrate, next time you bake a cake, take the mixer out of the bowl full of batter and turn it on. Eplain to your wife you need the crank scraper.
Point taken, but then you dont have to refill a scraper, how much do you have to pay to refill that bottle and over the duration of the life of the motor how many times might you do it? a scraper will last as long as your motor for a low up front cost.
Which costs less 100k miles with a scraper or 100k miles of continuous nitrous?
I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying that there are other mods worth more HP than a crank scraper that I myself would be putting my time into. We all know it works to some degree. If you're building a circle track car that will constantly see the drag of that extra oil then go for it. On a street car you probably wouldn't even notice it. Just my two cents.
BTW I dont necessarily disagree, for me when building a motor I work on the assumption that every little bit helps..for the pittance one of these pieces cost and the relative ease of fitment I see no reason not to. I've seen guys blow $90 on a freakin dipstick after all so $15 and a couple of hours I can afford.
Point taken, but then you dont have to refill a scraper and its duration will last as long as you keep your foot to the floor. as opposed to the very short duration of nitrous
There are actually plenty of other less extreme examples such as carb spacers, heat shields, going to larger diameter tubing, bigger air cleaner, etc., your own port matching work, etc. that also pay off at better than $5/hp. Depends on how ambitious you want to be for small gains.
Im assembling a 383 and a 540.
Im looking for any little thing that can help.
Your building these two engines instead of a 350 or a 454. You answered your own question. Your looking for power. Crank scraper is cheap, easy HP. Not much but, as toddalin said, it all adds up. The accumulated little things here and there make a difference. 3% don't sound like much but on a 330 HP engine that is 10 HP. Now it is a 340 HP engine. That 383 rotating assembly, clearancing the block, bore and hone, and balance probably set you back $1400 for maybe 70 hp tops. That doesnt count everything else and labor. That is $20+ per HP.
Wow, I was worried Id not get a response on this but It looks like others are interested too.
Thank for the responses.
The 383 in particular looks like a perfect candidate for this. Its a numbers matching deal. Nitrous, holley, headers are out of the question.
Im probably putting in 5-10 hours reworking the factory iron manifold for more power. This motor is for a friend. He is spending a lot of money for something that will struggle to make 400 HP
I also assume that the bigger the motor and longer the stroke the more there is to gain so my 540 is worth doing.
I assume scrapers sit on the pass side (LHdrive) to stop oil as its picked up from the sum?
The best thing in the world is a big 'ole box of a pan. Plenty of room for the oil to get away from the crank. I really do like the pans with the full length kickout on the right side to allow oil to leave the crank and return to the pan. You also have to look closely at strokers if they are going to rev at all. I've found that great pans that are fine on a 427 at 7500 rpm are terrible on a 540 at 6000 rpm. The crank and rods just get too close to the pan in the forward part of it.
Scrapers are great ideas IF there is someplace for the oil to go. If you peel off all the oil right there at the block edge as the rotating assy goes by it....where's it going to go? There needs to be enough room in that are of the pan to handle all you scrape and actually return to the pan. That's why the full length kickout area is good.
The best thing in the world is a big 'ole box of a pan. Plenty of room for the oil to get away from the crank. I really do like the pans with the full length kickout on the right side to allow oil to leave the crank and return to the pan. You also have to look closely at strokers if they are going to rev at all. I've found that great pans that are fine on a 427 at 7500 rpm are terrible on a 540 at 6000 rpm. The crank and rods just get too close to the pan in the forward part of it.
Scrapers are great ideas IF there is someplace for the oil to go. If you peel off all the oil right there at the block edge as the rotating assy goes by it....where's it going to go? There needs to be enough room in that are of the pan to handle all you scrape and actually return to the pan. That's why the full length kickout area is good.
JIM
"The Milodon #31188 *stepped drag race pan* is one of the best out there. It will fit our chassis without stock P/S. But it will clear a Steeroids setup. It's a little low, about dead even with the bottom of a scattershield, but well above most big block headers. I've run one for years and we've got them on several 540-632" C-3's and they all do well."
Second Post by Jim;
"That pan usually is worth 10-15 against most of them, but with the new Milodon changes to internal baffles they swear it was 9HP better than the version on my car. Do a search on Car Craft or Hot Rod. One of them did a back to back test with it on a mini test a while back and it did well. The higher you spin it or the longer the stroke...the better it will do."
Jim,
Will the pan that works on the 540 work good on the 427? Is it worth the change?