Whats your opinion on the best brakes for a high speed C-3?Thanks;Dave r

 

Start with a new master cylinder, and rubber hoses, replace any badly rusted steel lines....
then check your calipers for stainless lined, if they are not, you need to exchange them with someone who sells stainless lines calipers, and while you are at that, get the O ring type pistons and seals from Vette Brakes...
they are the best way to go,...toss out the springs from behind thost caliper pistons....
use a stainless small parts kit for Ebrake rebuilding, with the normal stock type iron shoes.....
make sure your rotors are in good clean condition....NOT REGROUND/RESURFACED....
I hate that....just buy a new rotor...IN PAIRS for each end...

after that, I recommend DOT5 fluid....it will not absorb water like the DOT3-4 stuff does....so rust is minimised.....

after that treatment, your car can stop on a dime and give change....

GENE

 

IMO, a better piston design can be found here, about halfway down the page.

http://www.vettepartsonline.com/63-8...components.php

Others will try to sell you a basically stock piston with o-rings on it. The zero tolerance piston will stay square in the bore unlike the stock design. Same comments as above on the DOT5 and replacing other components if you need them. My stock lines were fine but I did go with a SS braided hose.

 

One thing to keep in mind with the C3 is that no matter what calipers/pads you use, brake cooling is generally INSUFFICIENT to run continuous hot laps on a road race track. This is partly due to the design transmitting heat into the calipers, and partly due to there being minimal airflow into the wheels at speed. At least that's true with my Collector Edition wheels, which have only small holes through.

Tom Melton and I, among others I'm sure, have found this out with our '82 CEs at various track events.

What happens is that the brake fluid boils in the front calipers, then... No pedal. :eek: It took me about 20-25 minutes last time I was at a track with 550 degree brake fluid, and that was with a greatly modified motor, so there was much more heat being generated than stock.

Tom and I discussed possibly adding air ducting, but I haven't yet put any in, and I think Tom is optimizing his C4 for track use rather than playing with his C3 much.

Another possibility is that more open wheels would dissipate heat better from the rotor. I have some open 5 spokes on order, which may help.

Of course, heating the calipers to cooking temperature like that is likely to result in seal failure somewhere down the line.

Any other C3 drivers see this problem?

Any other systems (e.g., recirculating fluid) out there that work?

-Noel

 

Hey Gene, you using Carbon pads? I have used the Performance Friction Carbon-Metallic, the PF-Z Carbon-Metallic, and now I'm about to put in a set of Hawk Ferro-Carbon pads, since VB&P no longer carries the PF pads.

So far I've found the PF-Z pads to be excellent. No fade even when very very hot, and minimal rotor wear. I hope the Hawks are as good.

-Noel

 

How many times are you going to post this tpoic? I saw three so far.

 

Autozone sells the performance friction pads. I just bought a set for my 89 Blazer they cost me about 30 dollars.

Mark B.

 

Wilwood Superlight 6 piston :D:D
NASCAR quality brakes :smash:

 

Since you hit the reply button on my post, I'll assume you're asking me.

1. What I wrote isn't duplicated, at least not completely.

2. I figure not everyone reads every topic, nor searches the archives, so I am intentionally a little redundant. It's like having a conversation at a party. Some folks will :rolleyes:, but the info is new to some.

If you weren't asking me... Never mind. :bb

-Noel


[Modified by Noel Carboni, 4:36 PM 2/27/2002]

 

I see from your profile that you have Wilwood brakes. When I was looking at Wilwoods. In the definitions of usage the minimum I would use is the Superlite III model. Because They are made for extreme late model short track braking applications where heat build-up are the main concerns.

The best brakes for the buck is 13 in Porsche for a little over $2600.

Noel - Your idea of a wheel design that induces cross flow is the right idea. Also 17-18 inch diameter allows much more cooling clearance. I was also stupid (and broke) when I put on my Datona front end. At the time they offered air cooling ducts and rotor air dust covers as a $275 option.

I use synthetic and my rotors have a blue look from glowing to many times.