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AFR 180 on 383

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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:06 AM
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Default AFR 180 on 383

I am faced with building a new motor this winter as I just lost a rod bearing in my 350. I have decided to build a 383 however I will be reusing my older AFR 180 heads which are a little small for a 383. I will either be upgrading my existing 010 two bolt block with splayed center caps or purchasing a Dart SHP block. Does anyone know a realistic limit of hp that can be achived with these heads keeping it at around 6,000 rpm. That hp number will help me decide whether to upgrade my old block or go to the SHP block.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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Unless you're using a power adder or going to extreme rpm levels, you'll be fine with the 2 bolt caps, but consider using main cap studs instead of bolts.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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What are your power expectations. A Dart block is a waste of money if you are only going to push 400 to 450 HP. The 180 heads are definitly to small for a well breathing 383. My older 190s are barely enough for my 385 motor. They do make HP but I wish I had a set of 210s for it.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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The 195 eliminators are the best but look here at the flow numbers for your old 180 compared to the 195 eliminators @ .400 lift. You will be shocked what these 180 heads flow. They flow better than most 210 heads. I don't think the difference is worth dishing out the big bucks for new heads if your running 6000 RPM and under. You might give up a little peak HP but you will pull good power thoughout the powerband.
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 03:48 PM
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My target goals are in the 450 range for hp. One of the reasons I am considering the dart block is its fully machined cost is in the $1,700 range and its set up for a factory roller cam. By the time I have my block machined and put in retrofit rollers I'm not saving a whole lot and the dart block is a much nicer piece.

I realize that the 180 heads are not optimum for a 383 but they are paid for and only have about 5,000 miles on them. Their flow capability and wanting to maintain street manners is the reason I'm setting 6K as an rpm limit plus I'll be using a hydraulic cam.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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Don't under estimate the AFR 180 heads, mine are not on a 383 but a 406 sb with great results.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 28buick
My target goals are in the 450 range for hp. One of the reasons I am considering the dart block is its fully machined cost is in the $1,700 range and its set up for a factory roller cam. By the time I have my block machined and put in retrofit rollers I'm not saving a whole lot and the dart block is a much nicer piece.

I realize that the 180 heads are not optimum for a 383 but they are paid for and only have about 5,000 miles on them. Their flow capability and wanting to maintain street manners is the reason I'm setting 6K as an rpm limit plus I'll be using a hydraulic cam.
If your building a new short block using an SHP block the cost is no difference for the 4.125 bore block why limit yourself to the smaller bore. Someday down the road you could easly replace the 180 heads.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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you could/should make up to approximately twice as much HP as the CFM your heads flow at the cams max lift. if you cam has .500 valve lift, and at that lift your heads flow 250cfm, you can expect to make a little less than 500 HP. if everything is matched and optimized, etc.

I agree that for your target hp level the dart block is a waste of $$, unless you get the 4.125 (DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! ) in anticipation of future power upgrades.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 28buick
My target goals are in the 450 range for hp. One of the reasons I am considering the dart block is its fully machined cost is in the $1,700 range and its set up for a factory roller cam. By the time I have my block machined and put in retrofit rollers I'm not saving a whole lot and the dart block is a much nicer piece.

I realize that the 180 heads are not optimum for a 383 but they are paid for and only have about 5,000 miles on them. Their flow capability and wanting to maintain street manners is the reason I'm setting 6K as an rpm limit plus I'll be using a hydraulic cam.

I have a fully machined 383 block with 4 bolt mains that I no longer need (going big block). It is .030 over and has new cam bearings and brass freeze plugs installed. I'm asking $950 for it, but open to offers. It's ready to build as is for a lot less than that Dart block and should easily handle the 450 hp you are after - that's what I was going to build.

I'll send you a PM. Let me know if you are interested.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 11:44 PM
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2 flow tests on the old 180 @ .500 lift
255 190
260 204

2 flow tests on the new 195 eliminator street @ .500 lift
270 207
277 207

Look at the difference. Look at the cost. Look at your power goals (450 hp) and under 6000 RPM redline. Add the cost of a new intake that matches the ports on the AFR 195's. If you are going with a new block the dart with the 4.125 bore is the way I would go too. What CC are the chambers on your heads?

Last edited by 63mako; Nov 12, 2009 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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A 2 bolt main block and using a 3.750 stroke which adds more side loading to the caps which will make the caps walk as I repair a lot of blocks because guys have read in a magazine 2 bolts block are good up to 500 horse, Personally I have not seen this yet and buy what GM rates their blocks at they don''t either.

Here is a link to look over.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ps-1992-a.html

If your buying a used block make sure its its been sonic tested and plated honed and if it was bored off from and unsquared deck I would pass on that one.

The Dart SHP block is the way to go as we have sold about 45 of them this year with no problems.

Good luck which ever way you go
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