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Working on Davids 77 car and took it for a mile drive yesterday. It felt like something was dragging. I took my IR gun after a 1 mile 25 mph drive and shot all 4 rotor. 3 of the 4 are 80 degrees the 4th is 160 degrees. Pads are very hot to the touch. Removed the wheel this morning to find this. It looks like the caliper is crooked to the rotor. Now these are brand new trailing arms that are completly rebuilt with new rotors and everything by a vendor. No names yet. I loosened the caliper bolts and rotor lug nut a few times to see if they were not seated correctly and they are. The rotor is not out of round because it does it all the way around. Almost is like the caliper mounting is bent or the caliper is somehow bent. I don't know if this is possible because both are castings.
It seems that you need a little more clearance between one of your brake pads and the caliper.
Or maybe the caliper isn't correctly aligned / centered with the brake disc...
Do you feel the disc dragging when you turn the wheel by hand ( off the ground ) ?
The calipers can't be bent. They would break. But the caliper mounting brackets can be...
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Nov 16, 2009 at 11:06 AM.
Here is some better pics with the pads out. The caliper is definitly on somehow crooked. Check the distance from the sides to the rotors. The caliper is almost touching the rotor on the outside.
Problem taken care of. I called the vendor and they said this does happen on occasion. The mounting bracket for the caliper is not right. I measured it and one side was .676 the other was .770 so around .100 difference. That cocked the caliper enough to cause a heavy drag. Hey $%it happens but why always me. They are sending a box to send the trailing arm back and should turn it around in a day and get it back here.
Gordon did you load the caliper and then drop it in place ?
Also I notice you have your pad pins in opposite from the way GM installs them,is that done on purpose ?
I got to this late but I was going to say caliper mounting bracket. The caliper halves should align with the center of the rotor.
Yes it is the caliper mounting bracket.
Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Gordon did you load the caliper and then drop it in place ?
Also I notice you have your pad pins in opposite from the way GM installs them,is that done on purpose ?
Can't remember. I have done it both ways many times with no trouble either way. The calipers pins?? How are the brakes going to know which way the pin is in. That can't make a difference. I've seen a big bent nail in these before and they worked. I do remember having trouble getting the caliper bolts started when they were first installed so this is the reason why.
The trailing arm is out and going back to the vendor at no charge.
I install the caliper loaded also but once tightened down its easy not to notice the pad is wedged against the caliper because you don't feel it while tightening. Its always a good idea to get your head up above the caliper and look down to see how everything is sitting.
On the pad pins I've always thought the reason the pin is installed wheel side is so if the cotter pin comes out the pin won't simply fall out.
I install the caliper loaded also but once tightened down its easy not to notice the pad is wedged against the caliper because you don't feel it while tightening. Its always a good idea to get your head up above the caliper and look down to see how everything is sitting.
On the pad pins I've always thought the reason the pin is installed wheel side is so if the cotter pin comes out the pin won't simply fall out.
Why would the pin not come out. There is nothing on either side to hold it in.
Yikes! Don't you think the wheel turning will just rip the pin out?
It will, yes, but it will take some time, and during this time, you're safe because the pads will stay in place.
If you install the pin head-side in, nothing will prevent it from falling.
The same kind of principle is used with a vertical bolt and nut.
If you install the bolt with the head down, it will fall instantly if the nut gets loose and falls.
With the bolt head up, you have a chance that the bolt will stay in place...
It will, yes, but it will take some time, and during this time, you're safe because the pads will stay in place.
If you install the pin head-side in, nothing will prevent it from falling.
The same kind of principle is used with a vertical bolt and nut.
If you install the bolt with the head down, it will fall instantly if the nut gets loose and falls.
With the bolt head up, you have a chance that the bolt will stay in place...
I just went and looked at mine and mine are installed with the head out. With 17s and 18s though there is nothing there to really stop the pin coming out. I looked at the rest of Davids pins on his car and they are installed with the head in. He is running stock Rally wheels on his. I'll have to change them all. I'd like to know the percentage of cotter pins that have come out and pins that have come out. I'll bet lightening strikes are more common.