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The Mallory and Accel look the same in the catalogs, but require the removal of the distributor but are about 20 dollars less than the Pertronix.
However the Pertronix is highly recommended and does not require the distributer to be removed. I downloaded the instructions but can not figure out how you install the magnets on the lobes without removing the dist. Can some one explain how that part is done?
I have searched but found very little reviews on the mallory and accel conversions? Anyone using one of these?
The engine has been rebuilt along with the distributor. The engine builder said to break it in using points then switch to electronic. have dirven a few thousand miles since then.
want to keep close to stock appearing, so I do not want to replace the distributor. And other conversions I should consider?
The Mallory and Accel look the same in the catalogs, but require the removal of the distributor but are about 20 dollars less than the Pertronix.
However the Pertronix is highly recommended and does not require the distributor to be removed. I downloaded the instructions but can not figure out how you install the magnets on the lobes without removing the dist. Can some one explain how that part is done?
I have searched but found very little reviews on the Mallory and accel conversions? Anyone using one of these?
The engine has been rebuilt along with the distributor. The engine builder said to break it in using points then switch to electronic. have driven a few thousand miles since then.
want to keep close to stock appearing, so I do not want to replace the distributor. And other conversions I should consider?
On 10/27/03 I installed a Pertronix kit # 1181 and used there #40011 coil, it's worked 100% ever since then. ( About 38,000 miles ). Total cost about $100.00. That's just about break even if I had stayed with points and condenser and changed them every year.
I did have to pull the distributor to do the install but that was easy, just mark where the rotor points to and where the base of the distributor is lined up at and replace it the same way.
Some will say that a 'Pertronix Kit' can fail and leave you on the side of the road. I say if NASA can send a satellite out on a 20 year mission than I would expect the Pertronix unit to last at least that long.
The engine builder said to break it in using points then switch to electronic.
Originally Posted by FB007
Just when you think you have heard everything...............
At least, did he say why you should do so ? Could be interesting...
More seriously, I bought a Mallory conversion kit a few years ago, and I'm still happy with it.
It's true that you have to remove the distributor, but it's a good way to check everything on it, especially if the shaft doesn't have too much vertical free play and doesn't need to be shimmed. This point is very important.
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Nov 17, 2009 at 04:28 AM.
I'm pretty sure the Pertronix Ignitor 1181LS is the one that does not use a magnet but senses off the existing lobes. I don't care for this model because to get instant ignition you must pause in the ON position for a second when starting the car to energize the module.
I prefer the model with the magnetic ring that attaches to the bottom side of the rotor.
I prefer the model with the magnetic ring that attaches to the bottom side of the rotor.
I put PerTronix Ignitor II (PNX-91181) 10 years ago in my 68 without any problem and also put the same in the 72 and make with it the break in, no problems, and you can install it without taking out the distributor.
Avner
Some will say that a 'Pertronix Kit' can fail and leave you on the side of the road. I say if NASA can send a satellite out on a 20 year mission than I would expect the Pertronix unit to last at least that long.
So, you want to see a copy of my towing bill from when mine left me stranded? The original type of pertronixs units did not have a perfect reliability record. There again, neither does NASA.
Just when you think you have heard everything...............
Sort of misleading but not as crazy as you think. The golden rule is to change only one thing at a time.
In this case we knew the engine would start and run with the points. It was tired but ran well before the rebuild.
If I installed the electronic igntion immediately after the rebuild and the engine would not fire that would have been one more thing I would have needed to check.
BTW I often break the golden rule, and have paid the price many times lol
I have the Pertronix Ignitor II and Flame Thrower II coil. I drive my car every day (I've put 70,000 miles on my '69). My unit has been reliable. I had an issue where it was rubbing the weights, but it's good now. You remove the cap and stick the magnet in there following the instructions. It uses the Hall effect. There is an Ignitor III now that is supposed to have multiple sparks and a rev limiter. Anyways, I like not worrying about points. I broke this engine in with this unit and it makes no sense to buy the points and take them off...
Pertronics 3 is the newest and does not use the stupid ring with weights on it that can rub and fall out. The 3 uses a one piece solid state piece that mounts in place of the points. But why not use the crane XR-I, summitt still has them and they are 69.95, have used them for years and at that price i keep a spare in the car and can replace it on the side of the road, just like points. The rev limiter may save the motor if you miss a shift. Buy the 1710 for chevy crane xri, 1720 for pontiac and olds