brake upgrades? bigger is better?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
brake upgrades? bigger is better?
I am thinking of upgrading my brakes on a 1980 vette. The brakes work well but just don't seem to be that good. What upgrades have you done to your brake system for decreased stopping distance? I was thinking of bigger rotors and calipers but wonder if that would just lock up the tires. What would be even better (IMO) is being able to do a swap from the junkyard for newer brakes if that is possible. I rather do that than spend 1-2k for a brake setup. However, if the cost/safety does not improve the braking enough the kits may be worth it. I am on a budget which is why I am thinking junkyard setups. Also, if I go bigger I know I will need bigger wheels which are also an upgrade I am working on. Just have to figure out how wide and tall I want to go for best performance.
Whats your suggestions for brakes?
Whats your suggestions for brakes?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
The brakes on my '77 are more than good enough for street use. They are well balanced and stop dead straight. If your car has not had the brakes serviced recently there is a possibility that some thing is not quite right. This is a common occurance on these cars. Give us some more detail about your car like, Have the calipers been sleeved with stainless steel bores, any fluid leaking from seals on calipers or master cylinder, pad and rotor condition, any pulling under hard braking? mds...
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I have a hydroboost on mine with stock everything else. For street use you do not need anything else. All the rest is just show. I autoX my car and have never run out of brakes. Now a track car yes you should do an upgrade. You can only stop as fast as your tires will allow also.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I am thinking of upgrading my brakes on a 1980 vette. The brakes work well but just don't seem to be that good. What upgrades have you done to your brake system for decreased stopping distance? I was thinking of bigger rotors and calipers but wonder if that would just lock up the tires. What would be even better (IMO) is being able to do a swap from the junkyard for newer brakes if that is possible. I rather do that than spend 1-2k for a brake setup. However, if the cost/safety does not improve the braking enough the kits may be worth it. I am on a budget which is why I am thinking junkyard setups. Also, if I go bigger I know I will need bigger wheels which are also an upgrade I am working on. Just have to figure out how wide and tall I want to go for best performance.
Whats your suggestions for brakes?
Whats your suggestions for brakes?
Rick B.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 14,974
Likes: 3,362
From: NYC NY
I have a hydroboost on mine with stock everything else. For street use you do not need anything else. All the rest is just show. I autoX my car and have never run out of brakes. Now a track car yes you should do an upgrade. You can only stop as fast as your tires will allow also.
There really is no limit on what you can spend these days on brakes. Look at the brakes on a new ZR1 as an example. Also keep in mind big brakes - big rotors - big wheels and tires. Where do you stop (literally speaking 
)? It's real easy to get carried away especially after you look at all these high end brake kits on the pro-touring cars. You need to be honest with yourself and base your descision on how you are going to use your car and your budget. As "Gordonm" suggested if you need to upgrade beyond getting the stock set up to optimum performance the hydroboost should be more than enough.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
The brakes you need depend on your use. Beyond that, it's just braggin rights.
A caliper rebuild per 72LS1 with braided hoses and quality pads should be enough for even aggressive street driving.
Want more? Add a hydroboost.
Want more? Replace OE calipers with Wilwoods or SSBC calipers and new rotors - drilled and slotted rotors are cool
Now you are definitely tire limited as stage 3 will easily lock up all four corners.
Don't mess with front/rear bias unless you REALLY know what you are doing. (don't ask me how I know this.....)
A caliper rebuild per 72LS1 with braided hoses and quality pads should be enough for even aggressive street driving.
Want more? Add a hydroboost.
Want more? Replace OE calipers with Wilwoods or SSBC calipers and new rotors - drilled and slotted rotors are cool
Now you are definitely tire limited as stage 3 will easily lock up all four corners.
Don't mess with front/rear bias unless you REALLY know what you are doing. (don't ask me how I know this.....)
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Stock brakes with good pads are good enough for non racing.
Your front tires are what really make the difference. Hawk or some of the carbon metallic pads are pretty good
totally remove all your old fluid and pump in new higher temp fluid through
Your front tires are what really make the difference. Hawk or some of the carbon metallic pads are pretty good
totally remove all your old fluid and pump in new higher temp fluid through
Last edited by gkull; Nov 18, 2009 at 09:57 AM.
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Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Like I said when I installed the hydroboost, how far do you want your head to go through the windshield when you tap them ? 
Hydroboost is almost overkill, but I love it, anything more exotic would be waste of time and money unless it's a track car
Hydroboost is almost overkill, but I love it, anything more exotic would be waste of time and money unless it's a track car
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
If your current brakes are in good condition, changing to a softer tire compound will drastically affect your stopping distance. 
Is bigger better? Sure, but there is a cost factor. Complete brake system and tire/wheel upgrade. $$
Is bigger better? Sure, but there is a cost factor. Complete brake system and tire/wheel upgrade. $$
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
Get some Hawk street compound brake pads and make sure your calipers are in good working condition. Also make sure the rotors are installed correctly and don't have too much runout (not sure the exact value off the top of my head but any shop manual should be able to tell you).
For a street car, you do not need larger brakes. I've managed to pull 1g using stock size rotors & calipers, with a good brake pad compound. C3 brakes are very good if working properly. They only need upgrading for track use.
I would spend the extra cash in getting the best tires you can find. That's where the improvement will be.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
WOW awesome information... way more than I could ever ask for! Thank you.
My use of the car is street and if I can take it to a track I will just because its fun. I always was told if you build the car to be faster you need to do the brakes so you can stop too.
I will have to give my car a good inspection on the brakes. I am picking it up friday if everything goes to right. I drove the car and it braked ok but I think it could be better or I am just use to modern brakes.
From what I gather I should just save my money. Maybe change out the brake pad compound plus cross slotted or drilled rotors would help to for heavy braking. I did read another good article on the hydroboost and will have to check into that.
Thanks for the info... drinks are on me lol
My use of the car is street and if I can take it to a track I will just because its fun. I always was told if you build the car to be faster you need to do the brakes so you can stop too.
I will have to give my car a good inspection on the brakes. I am picking it up friday if everything goes to right. I drove the car and it braked ok but I think it could be better or I am just use to modern brakes.
From what I gather I should just save my money. Maybe change out the brake pad compound plus cross slotted or drilled rotors would help to for heavy braking. I did read another good article on the hydroboost and will have to check into that.
Thanks for the info... drinks are on me lol
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Or you can go with the Wilwood D8's and not have to worry about pumpin air into the brakes and leaking lip seals. The pistons are SS with an open end design and it reduces heat transfer. They are a direct bolt on and weigh approx 5 lbs vs stock which is approx 11 lbs. You can use stock corvette brake pads as well.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962
If you want bigger, we have options for those as well.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1961
Forum members also get a discount off the printed prices.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962
If you want bigger, we have options for those as well.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1961
Forum members also get a discount off the printed prices.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Slots and holes decrease the area of the friction surface- no 'braking' occurs in the area where a pad is over a hole or slot. This is obvious.
The supposed benefit is the holes and slots allows 'gas' created by the pads to vent as they wear away, permitting the pads to come in closer contact with the rotor surface.
In reality, pads produce little or no 'gas' during street operation. Many manufacturers of slotted and drilled rotors state that their products should not be used for racing applications due to concerns over stress cracks.
Save your money.
The supposed benefit is the holes and slots allows 'gas' created by the pads to vent as they wear away, permitting the pads to come in closer contact with the rotor surface.
In reality, pads produce little or no 'gas' during street operation. Many manufacturers of slotted and drilled rotors state that their products should not be used for racing applications due to concerns over stress cracks.
Save your money.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
Slots and holes decrease the area of the friction surface- no 'braking' occurs in the area where a pad is over a hole or slot. This is obvious.
The supposed benefit is the holes and slots allows 'gas' created by the pads to vent as they wear away, permitting the pads to come in closer contact with the rotor surface.
In reality, pads produce little or no 'gas' during street operation. Many manufacturers of slotted and drilled rotors state that their products should not be used for racing applications due to concerns over stress cracks.
Save your money.
The supposed benefit is the holes and slots allows 'gas' created by the pads to vent as they wear away, permitting the pads to come in closer contact with the rotor surface.
In reality, pads produce little or no 'gas' during street operation. Many manufacturers of slotted and drilled rotors state that their products should not be used for racing applications due to concerns over stress cracks.
Save your money.
Just a thanks to everyone else for the info!
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL