Power steering hoses stuck :(

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Nov 22, 2009 | 09:04 AM

jim2527

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Power steering hoses stuck :(

Steering cylinder: Brass nuts for both hoses loosen but they dont spin freel around the metal tubing. The rubber tubing twists. It looks like the nuts are sized to the tubing. NOT a big deal as I can slice the hoses in hasf

Steering valve: Rock solid. Using a high quality flare wrench and a torch to heat the valve body I can't get them to budge. They're stuck solid. In fact my flare wrench in beginning to slip on them as it appears the brass is soft.

Whhat are my options?

1. Buy a new valve body and use all new hoses
2. Cut hoses leading to vavle body and work on it on a work bench. Using high heat hopefulyl they'll work out.

What happens if they round off? What are my options. As fas as I can tell these are original 1970 parts so they may be siezed up pretty good.

JIm

Nov 22, 2009 | 09:25 AM

Gordonm

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I don't know what you are replacing but the hoses if they are original should be replaced anyway. If you heat up the valve hot you have ruined the seals and will have to rebuild/replace the valve anyway. Just take everything off and work on it at the bench. If you are replacing it don't worry about it.

Nov 22, 2009 | 10:13 AM

...Roger...

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Wiggle hoses back and forth so the line breaks off at the fittings and use a socket on them. I use a 3/8 impact with the air turned down.

Nov 22, 2009 | 11:34 AM

jim2527

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordonm

Quote:

Originally Posted by ...Roger...

Wiggle hoses back and forth so the line breaks off at the fittings and use a socket on them. I use a 3/8 impact with the air turned down.

Gordon, everythings leaking and one of the hoses has chaffed through. It sounds like I should do it on the wrok bench.

Roger, I'll do that with it on a owrk bench. My only fear is that a socket will shear off the nutted part and leave the threaded part in the valve. In that instance I'd probably be better getting a new valve?

Nov 22, 2009 | 11:59 AM

...Roger...

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jim2527

Roger, I'll do that with it on a owrk bench. My only fear is that a socket will shear off the nutted part and leave the threaded part in the valve. In that instance I'd probably be better getting a new valve?

Yes but as Gordon said heating the valve will probably ruin the seals anyway. Good Luck

Nov 22, 2009 | 12:01 PM

...Roger...

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Also don't forget the trick of putting vise grips on the outside of your flare wrench but it is very tight in there.

Nov 22, 2009 | 01:37 PM

jim2527

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ...Roger...

Also don't forget the trick of putting vise grips on the outside of your flare wrench but it is very tight in there.

Great tip!! I'll post back later in the week once I'm finished with it..

Nov 23, 2009 | 07:58 AM

muskegonbrake

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordonm

If you did heat the valve enough to ruin the seals, you would have to rebuild or replace. I don't usually recommend rebuilding unless you've done it before.
Let me know if you need to replace it. Check out our PS kits if you're interested