WoW :eek: ! Here I am trying to lighten my car where I can, and this thing looks like I'll be mounting a brick poophouse in my car! I'm really excited to get this in, just neeed the weather to cooperate. I ordered a tubular crossmember form BTO to try to mount the new tranny to, which will be removable. The old heavy crossmember is now out of the car.

The JCL pipes are also in the mail and should be arriving soon :D .

 

Very :cool:
Keep us posted!

 

Installed my Tremec this winter. It comes with a shifter but not the shift arm and ball. I used one from a mustang. It also comes with the yoke. It is a strong transmission. Good luck
Put studs in the bellhousing. It make it alot easier to align the input shaft and it supports the transmission while installing and makes starting the nuts very easy.

 

Man! I really like the look and stance of both of you guys' cars. I gotta get me some TTII's. :seeya

 

SOunds very good indeed! You made me have second thoughts on the tranny issue, maybe I should have got Tremec as well... No, I'm just a happy camper with the Richmond and it says Road Race that can't be bad thing can't it?! :jester :lol: :yesnod: :crazy: :smash:
Keep us posted and especially when you get those baffles installed, I'd be very interested to hear how they compare to your sidepipes you've now. :cheers:

 

I want to hear how it is once you get it on the street. How 1st gear is with 3.90 and a 3.27 first gear. I have still not made up my mind yet. Sounds :cool:

 

I have 4.11s with the 3.27 1st and I don't like it. I rev out too quickly. About 1/2 and intersection is all. Sometimes I start in second. I would like to re-install my 3.08s and have less of an overdrive. If I have the 3.08s with my .68 overdrive I would only be reving about 15-1600 at 60 and that is too low. I presently rev about 2100 at 60 and 2400 at 70

 

Just got my Tremec installed. Hope to fire the beast up this weekend.
Got the shifter and yoke from Fortes. http://www.fortesparts.com
Used the tranny mount bracket from Bowtie Overdrives for a 700R4 with the stock cross member and it fit perfectly. Used Energy Suspension ploy tranny mount to minimize movement since the yoke clearance is pretty tight.

Mods needed (besides above):
-Bigger hole in roof of tunnel (about 2 1/2 inches to the right)
-Cut driveshaft. Mine measures 25 3/4 center to center but 26 would have worked.
-Modify shifter to work with stock console. The stock stub was cut and welded to an extension 2 1/4" left and 1" back. Comes up right through the stock hole. I have pics at home. Email me if you want them.

Looking forward to driving the car again. I think the Tremec gearing will be a good match with the 3.36 rear.

BTW: Since I left the stock crossmember welded in, I put the engine/tranny in as a unit which worked well. :smash: :smash:

 

Sweet! Good luck with it!

What is the final drive ratio of the trans? (Is it overdrive?)

 

Massvette, we'll do :yesnod: .


Norval thanks for the stud tip, did you get them from ARP? How do you indicate the bellhousing to check runout? Those are some good cruise RPM's with your 4.11's.

Racer thanks !

Jay I certainly do have as much going on as you do ;) . If I still had the 3.36's in my car (that I just sold), I would have considered the Richmond. I post the results of the baffles once evrything is back together.

Steve that's great news on the BTO crossmember. I called them & was told that it was designed for the 700R so I gambled hoping it would work. I'd love to see your pics, feel free to send them to me.

John I believe the O/D is .68 . I may cruise to Rochester as an excuse for breaking in the tranny :D .

 

I'm looking forward to it! My house is about 10 minutes from the Victor thruway exit.

 

So you decided on the TKO. Good choice. Mike's a pretty good guy and I hope he helped you with your decision. Good luck on the install. I'm sure you will like it. I am curious to see how it works for you when you autocross.

 

Norval thanks for the stud tip, did you get them from ARP? How do you indicate the bellhousing to check runout? Those are some good cruise RPM's with your 4.11's.

Racer thanks !

I got some long set screws and installed them with loctite. It really makes installation and removal simple. Once it starts on the studs it is quided home. Also for nuts are effortless to start. Try starting some of the bolts holding the transmission up with the other hand. Mine came from a local screw supplier.
To indicate the bellhousing you need a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Clamp the dial indicator to the flywheel without a clutch of coarse and set the dial indicator at 90 degrees to the opening for the transmission. Remove the plugs and get a friend of a large mirror and using the front crank bolt slowly turn the motor over taking measurement every 90 degrees. Set the dial indicator to zero someplace then record the amounts it is off of zero. Divide this maximum runout by 2 to come up with the actual run out. If you set it to zero and find the worst case runout at say .010 or 10 thousands divide by 2 and you have .005 runout. If it is too extreme they sell kits that have offset dowel pins in the range that you need.
The transmissions come with instructions as to the amount of runout they accept. I would put .010 total or .005 actual runout at max.
My cruise rpm is acceptable and it tops out at over 190mph. Something that I will never see.
Good luck

 

I never thought about the stud idea. I wouldn't have to say as many hail Mary's if I would have had them for my last clutch change. I saw these black hardened headless bolts with a phillips screw end once and never gave them much thought.

 

GreatWhite, let me tell you this was not an easy decision for me to make. I had several e-mails to BTO when I was strongly considering going to an automatic for the ease of driving in an autocross, but also because it isn't as hard on the drivetrain. Then it was which one, the 700R or 200R? After talking to several people (thanks to everyone on the forum who gave me your opinions, time, & experience :cheers: ) about going to the automatic, I was able to see both the pros and cons of each. I finally decided on staying with the standard shift, then I saw your post on the T56, and really started looking strongly at going that route. Well I called Mike Forte after seeing that the T56 was only $1 more than the TKO with the intention of buying the T56. After talking with Mike (super nice guy), he convinced me that I should go with the TKO so I took his advice :rolleyes: .

Norval thanks for the info. One question for you though, are you moving the indicator base to true the indicator first to get it centered to take the reading? Oops, 1 more ;) , can I leave the dowel pins in to see how it reads as is after removing the clutch & pressure plate? Oh yeah, do you know what grade steel the set screws are that you used? Thanks!

 

Congrats on your newest purchase! Man you about have that thing done don't you!The car is looking pretty light.I wander what it weighs?

Out of curiosity,what did they recommend as far as lube for it? Redline MTL?

 

The indicator does not need to be trued. It magnetically attaches to the flywheel and anywhere is ok. The eccentricity doesn't matter. The original dowel pins are left alone for the checking. Only if you find it runs out a maximum reading of .010 do you need to buy and install different offset dowels. The instructions that come with the Tremec will tell you the maximum allowable runout. But remember if the indicator is zeroed at first divide by 2.
The studs are 2 inch long set screws and they are grade 8.
Good luck

 

Most of the comments I've heard over the years suggest that a final gear ratio (first trans gear multiplied by rear end ratio) should not be above 10.0 or you will rev out too quick as per Norval's post.

 

Thanks Mountainmotor. I'm going to take the car to the local dump (maybe this year) and pay the $10 to go on the scale & see where my weight is. The instructions give a GM part # for the trans fluid, don't have it here at work with me. They recommend not running synthetic for the first 1000 miles.

Norval, thanks again, your truely an asset to the forum.

Flynhi this IS a concern of mine. If it is too low, I'll be able to go to a taller tire in the rear when I step up to 18's in the back :p: , that'll help some :D . But, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.