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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 02:30 AM
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Default Timing chain

Timing gears went at 52000. At 54000 bearings and crank destroyed. This in an L82. Be advised friends
Happy Turkey eating
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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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Sorry for your loss

If you want to know if it is the original engine check the pad in the front. Should have a derivative of your vin number on the pad. Doesnt mean the engine wasnt worked on just whether this was the original block. Good luck. I think you just bought this car?

http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php
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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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Wow ! That seems a very low mileage for such worn parts.
How was the engine oil ? Oil pressure ? This sounds like a lack of lubrication, don't you think ?

Last edited by 73StreetRace; Nov 26, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 73StreetRace
Wow ! That seems a very low mileage for such worn parts.
How was the engine oil ? Oil pressure ? This sounds like a lack of lubrication, don't you think ?
I blame it on the fine toothed double timing gears. Oil pressure was 20 idle warm to 50 idle cold. 30 to 40 highway. Not a lot of noise.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Huth
I blame it on the fine toothed double timing gears. Oil pressure was 20 idle warm to 50 idle cold. 30 to 40 highway. Not a lot of noise.
I agree with the stock timing gears, it's a weak point. And your oil press was good, too. So, your bearings and crank shouldn't have been destroyed so soon. Or maybe some metal particles from the timing gears went into the oil circuits ?
Did you check the cam lobes ?
Did you increase engine power, or was it bone stock ?

Last edited by 73StreetRace; Nov 27, 2009 at 01:22 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 73StreetRace
I agree with the stock timing gears, it's a weak point. And your oil press was good, too. So, your bearings and crank shouldn't have been destroyed so soon. Or maybe some metal particles from the timing gears went into the oil circuits ?
Did you check the cam lobes ?
Did you increase engine power, or was it bone stock ?
The valves were just adjusted. The motor is stock. I think shavings from the gears went through the shaft and into the bearings. I didn't have anything in the oil for 2000 miles. Just started to have noise. Last start up a slight nock for maybe 1 minute.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 11:10 PM
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WOT Syndrome
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Wow My L81 has 110,000 original miles except for typical cam problems. I think this is the third cam. Put new oil pump in with most recent cam and the oil pressure went from ok to great 70 psi cold idle 40 hot idle 50-60 cruise hot. Hope this engine can make a year or two before needing rebuild, so I can save up for it.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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I found out today that for sure this is the original motor by the mechanic. It seems no one knows how long the dual gears last.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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I'm going to change my timing chain & gears, timing cover and harmonic balancer soon.
I already know that cam lobes look nice, but I have a little chain stretch.
So, it's better to heal it before it's too late.
I'll post pictures if I find something interesting like you did...
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 73StreetRace
I'm going to change my timing chain & gears, timing cover and harmonic balancer soon.
I already know that cam lobes look nice, but I have a little chain stretch.
So, it's better to heal it before it's too late.
I'll post pictures if I find something interesting like you did...
turn the mill by hand to tdc mark...remove dizzy cap ....turn front balancer bolt clockwise and see how soon the rotor moves....once it moves reverse turn the mill till it moves backwards again....note the movement in degrees at the timing tab....if its more than 2 deg. one way or 6 deg. total, you have too much chain stretch....no sense doing something with no gain in mind..some stretch is tolerable and will not hurt performance....good luck
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 73StreetRace
I'm going to change my timing chain & gears, timing cover and harmonic balancer soon.
I already know that cam lobes look nice, but I have a little chain stretch.
So, it's better to heal it before it's too late.
I'll post pictures if I find something interesting like you did...
Very Good Idea
I want everyone to be ware. This turned out expensive for me.
Gary
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Huth
I blame it on the fine toothed double timing gears. Oil pressure was 20 idle warm to 50 idle cold. 30 to 40 highway. Not a lot of noise.
My 78 L-82 runs about 50 PSI idle oil pressure cold and 40 PSI Idle warm. Highway oil pressure is 60 PSI warm-65,000 miles on the original engine and cam. I have used Mobil 1 since 1986 and most recently 15W-50 Mobil 1. Hope that helps as a reference! So sorry to hear about your L-82!
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
My 78 L-82 runs about 50 PSI idle oil pressure cold and 40 PSI Idle warm. Highway oil pressure is 60 PSI warm-65,000 miles on the original engine and cam. I have used Mobil 1 since 1986 and most recently 15W-50 Mobil 1. Hope that helps as a reference! So sorry to hear about your L-82!
That is where my oil pressure is now. I use Valvoline Syn Power 10-30. Been using it since I have owned the car. Used Mobil One for a while in a Pontiac Van. One moring it was about 15 degrees and the vehicle set out. It spun a bearing in the cold wether. Not fond of Mobil1.
Thanks for the reply.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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I've been using Vavoline VR1 20w50 racing oil with Zinc since I put new cam & lifters in.
Probably will continue using it to hopfully prevent another cam from going out.I won't use synthetic oil unless it a fresh engine just after break-in.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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If you have enough oil volume you can use one of the oil galley plugs with a small hole in it to squirt extra oil unto the cam gear which in turn will keep lots of oil on the chain assembly.
Certainly won't hurt.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
turn the mill by hand to tdc mark...remove dizzy cap ....turn front balancer bolt clockwise and see how soon the rotor moves....once it moves reverse turn the mill till it moves backwards again....note the movement in degrees at the timing tab....if its more than 2 deg. one way or 6 deg. total, you have too much chain stretch....no sense doing something with no gain in mind..some stretch is tolerable and will not hurt performance....good luck
I'll check that this week-end. Thanks for the tip. I didn't know how much stretch was too much.
But I think my harmonic balancer must be replaced ( 37 years old ! ) and the front main seal too.
So, once it's removed, the hardest job is done to reach the timing chain & gears and these are not expensive parts...
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:20 AM
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Its normal to have some slack in the timing chain. The timing cover is difficult to install with oil pan on and the front two oil pan bolts need to be loosened. I found out the hard way. Timing cover came out easy,then two= hpurs to get it back in.
Man was I getting pissed.... Then someone later that day said "did you loosenr the two front oil pan bolts"? I just laughed!
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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Generally this type of thread laments the disintegration of the factory nylon gear (a known flaw in the late 1970s). A good double-row steel tooth setup (e.g. Cloyes) is the solution. Thus I am surprised that yours failed....

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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteC3
Its normal to have some slack in the timing chain. The timing cover is difficult to install with oil pan on and the front two oil pan bolts need to be loosened. I found out the hard way. Timing cover came out easy,then two= hpurs to get it back in.
Man was I getting pissed.... Then someone later that day said "did you loosenr the two front oil pan bolts"? I just laughed!
I'll try to remember that when I change my timing cover.
My oil pan is brand new and I used a one-piece Fel-Pro oil pan gasket. I hope it'll help.
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