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Overheating problem - 81 vette

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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Default Overheating problem - 81 vette

Hi everybody I'm new to the forum, I've just bought a 1981 Vette, just joined the family!

As usual, I'm fighting against all those small issues like minor leaks and interiors...one thing that I'm really worried about is the overeating of my engine...it seems like it's slow to warm up, but then when idling/slow riding temp goes suddenly all the way up to 250+, then when driving around 30-80mph it goes down again to normal levels, and it stays low until I hit traffic or I stop completely.

Do you think it might be related to a faulty thermostat?

I've got edelbrok carb and intake with headers and sidepipes installed by the previous owner, maybe this puts additional streess on the engine...

Thanks in adv to anyone who will reply!
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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Since temps. go down when at speed this is telling us that you are not moving air through radiator when ideling. Do you have the stock fan/clutch and shroud? Is coolant level correct? You will need to check for seals around and on top of radiator. These insure that air is sucked through rad. and not around it. This is what I would check first. Might be a good idea to check thermostat but is not sounding like it is the primary cause. Other members will help too. Welcome to the Forum these guys are the best. mds...
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Good advice! Chin spoiler, fan and clutch, shroud are the right places to start looking.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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Had almost the same problem with my stock 79 and I replaced the air dam, sealed up around the shroud and change the thermostat.. Problem is gone.. Welcome..
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 11:26 PM
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Fan Clutch and shroud seals are the likely culprits if everything is still there. At speed on the road if it stays cool that tells you the air dam is probably doing its job and that the radiator is also probably doing ok. The T-stat sets the minimum temp, so its most likely good too. I would examine the radiator to shroud seals and the fan clutch to start, asuming the coolant level is ok. With the hood up, engine running and warmed up watch the fan and kill the motor, the fan should not turn more that 1 turn or so after the motor stops. If it even looks close replace the clutch.
Welcome aboard!
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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Welcome to the Forum. I would say this a problem with the Fan Clutch. i do not think if is the air dam because you say the problem is more notorious when in traffic. good luck and enjoy your new toy.
BY THE WAY ADD PICTURES!!!!! we love PICTURES

Last edited by larryg3; Dec 19, 2009 at 11:37 PM. Reason: added text
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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You can check too if the radiator is clogged.My set up is close to your.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 10:39 PM
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Default Overheating

Having overheating problems. Not realizing I popped 2 fan belts and I replaced them. Replaced coolant and thermostat. My overflow is full. Does that stop circulation?
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:12 AM
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Popping the belts will stop circulation because the belts will run the water pump.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by AboveTheLogic
Popping the belts will stop circulation because the belts will run the water pump.
Exactly. I got new belts and everything is working. Alternator is good. AC compressor is good and fan blade is also back up and running but still over heating.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:35 AM
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Make sure you got ALL the air out. Also, when the engine is warm, rev it up (3,000rpm+) and down and check to see if the hoses are collapsing.

You should see your overflow level rise when the temp goes up and lower when the temp goes down if the radiator cap is working properly.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AboveTheLogic
Make sure you got ALL the air out. Also, when the engine is warm, rev it up (3,000rpm+) and down and check to see if the hoses are collapsing.

You should see your overflow level rise when the temp goes up and lower when the temp goes down if the radiator cap is working properly.
That may be a problem. My overflow is full and stays full after the engine cools down. I have a new radiator cap as well and fairly certain it is screwed on and should be good. When I saw the engine over heating I turned around to head back home. The temperature gauge stated to fluctuate and actually cool at idle speed.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:54 AM
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Right so if the air was completely removed from the system, the overflow tank would rise as the pressure from the rising temperature expands the coolant. When everything cools down, the coolant gets pulled back in from the overflow from the vacuum in the system. Air screws all of that up.

Last edited by AboveTheLogic; Jul 21, 2016 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:57 AM
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If you keep popping belts then more than likely its caused by either a bad water pump with a bearing and or your entire cooling system needs a good flush. My friends trans am was having similar issues without the belts. Gave it a flush and it solved everything. If it is your water pump i reccomend getting a flowkooler water pump this pump works wonders with my stock radiator.

Last edited by Matthew Manney; Jul 21, 2016 at 01:03 AM.
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