5.3l ls
. People out there with LS engines on their C3's be ready for questions
.
. People out there with LS engines on their C3's be ready for questions
.http://www.amazon.com/Swap-Engines-A...1275034&sr=8-1
and read the LS-swap thread. I'd be suprised if you have a lot of questions after doing both of those things. Also look on ls1tech.com. There is a ton of info on swapping LS engines there.

Rick B.
http://www.amazon.com/Swap-Engines-A...1275034&sr=8-1
and read the LS-swap thread. I'd be suprised if you have a lot of questions after doing both of those things. Also look on ls1tech.com. There is a ton of info on swapping LS engines there.

Rick B.
. Before I do this swap I'm going to fix a couple of other things on the vette. I can't wait to get this thing started
.
http://www.speedhound.com/
As far as the LS1 heads and cam, I might suggest saving some pennies and buying a decent head and cam kit as the LS1 set will provide little bang for the buck, even if free. If you are going to tear it apart, you may want to make it worthwhile. My .02.
Good luck with the project.
http://www.speedhound.com/
As far as the LS1 heads and cam, I might suggest saving some pennies and buying a decent head and cam kit as the LS1 set will provide little bang for the buck, even if free. If you are going to tear it apart, you may want to make it worthwhile. My .02.
Good luck with the project.
. I'll make sure I make that call. By the way, your '81 Vette was a major inspirationWith regard to the heads/cam though I would suggest that you do a couple things. First off compare the flow of the LS1 heads to the stock 5.3 heads as well as the chamber cc to approximate what the compression ration will be (and I'm not even sure if the bore size works with the 5.3 but lets assume it does). I would then also compare the cam specs (duration/lift/LSA) to the stock.
I may get this wrong but if my memory is correct the 5.3's have a 3.78" bore whereby the LS1's have a 3.90" bore.
I am not sure, even if free, that you will find that the potential for increase will be worth tearing the motor down unless the 5.3 has a lot of miles on the drivetrain and you want to freshen it up.
Actually after writing above I went out and did a quick search. If the info I got is correct the LS1 heads have a larger chamber (66.67cc vs. 61.15cc) and at .500 lift the flow difference is negligible. You would probably loose some compression and some power. You might pick up a little something with the cam but I would spend about $500 and buy a good cam for the 5.3 with springs and hardened push rods and put the cam, springs and push rods in your 5.3 and keep your heads. You would save on heads gaskets and head bolts (couple bucks) so the net cost would only be about $300-$350 and IMHO you would probably make more power.
But, I would see what others think. I'm sure opinions will vary. Either way it will be fun when done!!! Enjoy.
Cam Specs:
5.3 LM7
190/191 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.466" / 0.457" int/exh lift
114 LSA
1998 - 2000 Fbody
202/210 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.496" / 0.496" int/exh lift
116 LSA
Head Specs:
Stock 5.3 Heads
Chamber 61.15 cc 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.550 0.600
Intake 200 cc 63 128 179 210 218 221 226
Exhaust 70 cc 54 93 121 145 163 168 174
Valve Diameter Intake 1.89"
Valve Diameter Exhaust 1.55"
Part Number 12559852
12561706
Stock LS1 Heads
Chamber 66.67 cc 0.100 0.200 0.300 0.400 0.500 0.550 0.600
Intake 200 cc 67 122 178 215 219 223 227
Exhaust 70 cc 52 97 133 156 170 176 180
Valve Diameter Intake 2.00"
Valve Diameter Exhaust 1.55"
Part Number 12559853 (1997-98)
12559853 (1999-00)
12564241 (2001-03)
Last edited by 78Vette-SA; Dec 20, 2009 at 08:38 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
However, note LS1 has much larger intake valve ... that often results in wider valve spacing. It may, MAY be the LS1 valve spacing is too wide for small 5.3L bore ... upon opening, LS1 valve MAY MAY hit edge of small bore/block. LS1 heads may or may not fit, I dunno.
Thinking of rodding a 5.3L LM7? ... carcraft saw nearly 100hp increase in LM7 with CARB, stock heads but added just springs & cam. If that's to be believed, that's one heckuva bump!
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles..._manifold.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...flow_test.html
Joe..
.
- get two 5/16" wooden dowels
- Remove balancer, timer cover, cam sprocket and let chain drop (Good time to replace chain and/or oil pump depending on mileage. If you replace the chain and not the oil pump, definately replace the O-Ring in the pick-up tube that goes in the bottom of the oil pump
- Pull the valve covers and loosen the rocker arms all the way
- While rotating the camshaft by hand, slide the 5/16" wooden dowels into the holes on each side of the cam. You may have to push a little to get to go past all the lifters. This will hold the lifters up so you can pull the camshft out without dropping the lifters in. Lifters are NOT accessible with the heads on. You can pull them up with a pen magnet as well as you go back into the motor with the 5/16" dowel but the dowel will hold them up while you work on it.
- Lube the daylights out of it and rotate and slide the new cam back in.
- pull the dowels out slowly
- reinstall everything.
- Depending on the cam, you will probably want to swap springs. Compressed air works wonders here or shove some rope info the cylinder to keep the valves from compressing while you use a spring compressor on them from above.
Cheers....
- get two 5/16" wooden dowels
- Remove balancer, timer cover, cam sprocket and let chain drop (Good time to replace chain and/or oil pump depending on mileage. If you replace the chain and not the oil pump, definately replace the O-Ring in the pick-up tube that goes in the bottom of the oil pump
- Pull the valve covers and loosen the rocker arms all the way
- While rotating the camshaft by hand, slide the 5/16" wooden dowels into the holes on each side of the cam. You may have to push a little to get to go past all the lifters. This will hold the lifters up so you can pull the camshft out without dropping the lifters in. Lifters are NOT accessible with the heads on. You can pull them up with a pen magnet as well as you go back into the motor with the 5/16" dowel but the dowel will hold them up while you work on it.
- Lube the daylights out of it and rotate and slide the new cam back in.
- pull the dowels out slowly
- reinstall everything.
- Depending on the cam, you will probably want to swap springs. Compressed air works wonders here or shove some rope info the cylinder to keep the valves from compressing while you use a spring compressor on them from above.
Cheers....






here's a cam swap method from sealed crate motor race cheats:
with motor out of car & on stand
roll motor-block over upside down
loosen rockers (Not remove) ... lifters will slide away from cam
R&I cam
roll motor-block over right side up
R&I springs
here's a cam swap method from sealed crate motor race cheats:
with motor out of car & on stand
roll motor-block over upside down
loosen rockers (Not remove) ... lifters will slide away from cam
R&I cam
roll motor-block over right side up
R&I springs
Sometimes the obvious evades us.... Or at least me...
Just have a pan under the motor or hope it is thoroughly drained of ALL fluids when you do it.










