Did some timing light testing...
The baseline:
1)My car is running locked out timing(no vacuum or centrifugal advance) so its really simple to check.
2)The timing light I have always used is a Sunpro(Actron #7519) dial back style. I have had this thing 15yrs and its always worked well, but the reason I was questioning this is now my car has a MSD 6AL and everyone says the dial back lights are not accurate, especially on a MSD ignitions. I really had no idea where I was at. On the dyno, we set the timing at 31* with a Snap On digital light. Upon installation in the car after stabbing the distributor, I set the timing at 32* with my Sunpro light and thats where I have been running it.

So today I go to Sears to buy a Craftsman non advance light, only to find out they are not selling them anymore...All they had was a Craftsman dial back style and the Craftsman Professional series (digital) with the tach and other stuff. Well since I already have a regular dial back, I decided to roll the dice on the digital model.
My balancer is already degreed so I figured the standard style light would be easy to test against the dial back method but....since I couldnt find the non dial back light, I will just have to hope the dial back method is accurate.
I came home tested both at idle, 1500 rpms and at 3000 rpms(since MSDs are supposed to only fire single sparks after 3000).
Both lights read IDENTICAL at all engine speeds and degrees.....Both light lights had about the same about of reading fluctionation at idle(I attribute this to the MSD multiple sparks but this was minimal) at 1500 rpms, both lights were reading the same smoothness at "0"(using the dial back set at 33*) and at 3000rpms, the line was rock steady at "0".
So for me, I consider two timing lights that are reading IDENTICAL to be pretty accurate, eventhough neither one I am supposed to be using due to their dial back feature and the MSD interference. I will say the digital light is pretty bad ***, the strobe is much brighter then the old Sunpro light and the digital action makes it idiot proof to add a degree or two with great accuracy. Lastly the tach feature is nice when you are laying over the fan revving the **** out of the motor thinking your are "up there pretty good" only to find out you are at 2k or less....LOL
I will keep both and continue to benchmark them against each other but, I guess this is close enough for me. As long as they are consistant, the absolute numbers shouldn't normally matter TOO much, but my motor is on the edge of detonation so I need to keep the timing in check at all times.
Sorry for the long post, just thought I would throw my experience out there.
The baseline:
1)My car is running locked out timing(no vacuum or centrifugal advance) so its really simple to check.
2)The timing light I have always used is a Sunpro(Actron #7519) dial back style. I have had this thing 15yrs and its always worked well, but the reason I was questioning this is now my car has a MSD 6AL and everyone says the dial back lights are not accurate, especially on a MSD ignitions. I really had no idea where I was at. On the dyno, we set the timing at 31* with a Snap On digital light. Upon installation in the car after stabbing the distributor, I set the timing at 32* with my Sunpro light and thats where I have been running it.

So today I go to Sears to buy a Craftsman non advance light, only to find out they are not selling them anymore...All they had was a Craftsman dial back style and the Craftsman Professional series (digital) with the tach and other stuff. Well since I already have a regular dial back, I decided to roll the dice on the digital model.
My balancer is already degreed so I figured the standard style light would be easy to test against the dial back method but....since I couldnt find the non dial back light, I will just have to hope the dial back method is accurate.
I came home tested both at idle, 1500 rpms and at 3000 rpms(since MSDs are supposed to only fire single sparks after 3000).
Both lights read IDENTICAL at all engine speeds and degrees.....Both light lights had about the same about of reading fluctionation at idle(I attribute this to the MSD multiple sparks but this was minimal) at 1500 rpms, both lights were reading the same smoothness at "0"(using the dial back set at 33*) and at 3000rpms, the line was rock steady at "0".
So for me, I consider two timing lights that are reading IDENTICAL to be pretty accurate, eventhough neither one I am supposed to be using due to their dial back feature and the MSD interference. I will say the digital light is pretty bad ***, the strobe is much brighter then the old Sunpro light and the digital action makes it idiot proof to add a degree or two with great accuracy. Lastly the tach feature is nice when you are laying over the fan revving the **** out of the motor thinking your are "up there pretty good" only to find out you are at 2k or less....LOL
I will keep both and continue to benchmark them against each other but, I guess this is close enough for me. As long as they are consistant, the absolute numbers shouldn't normally matter TOO much, but my motor is on the edge of detonation so I need to keep the timing in check at all times.
Sorry for the long post, just thought I would throw my experience out there.







Was the head gasket on the current motor???
JIM






The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Most timing inaccuracies are caused by the tab being mislocated or the harmonic balancer slipping. Periodically one should use a piston stop tool or dial indicator to set the number one cylinder on TDC and check to be sure the marks are lined up correctly.

I've been reading your posts about the big block swap on a few different forums, and havent seen you mention that.
We had a circle track customer burn up a piston because his Snap On light was not accurate beleive it or not he did this twice!!!
Here are some good links to look over on lites.
http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...-lights-1.html
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/173877/
Most timing inaccuracies are caused by the tab being mislocated or the harmonic balancer slipping. Periodically one should use a piston stop tool or dial indicator to set the number one cylinder on TDC and check to be sure the marks are lined up correctly.
Here is the Eurolink
http://www.msdignition.de/




Here is the Eurolink
http://www.msdignition.de/
Looked at the instruction, I didn't realise the 6AL was a multispark capacitor discharge system, this explains the potential timing light inaccuracy 


Equus has had a digi light on the market for many years now but i worried how it would work with my MSD box. Ya know, i just trust the craftsman name more than the Equus brand that has had all the bells and whistles on the market for a long time. Sears sells them both but now its good to know the craftsman is accurate while it has all the bells and whistles too. One nice item the Equus has is it displays both rpm and advance at the same time where it looks like the craftsman requires u to toggle back and forth by switch. An accurate tach is a must have for me.

Thx for posting,
cardo0









