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Need heat in cabin!

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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 11:49 PM
  #21  
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Default Roll 'em, Pete!

Originally Posted by petes74ttop
Enjoy a 'Happy New Year' with so much heat you'll have to open the windows.
I'm enough to stay pretty warm, just from that comment, Pete! Yesterday it was ten degrees warmer in Bangor, Maine than here.

I'll give you some information about my 74 and maybe it will apply to your 72
That was definitely "SOME" information!! THANK YOU for that!! And from a neighbor, to boot!

I have saved your diagram "just in case". I've not spent much time under the console, but She Who Must Be Obeyed has had it down to nuts & bolts so if Global Warming ever comes back, I'll get her to go out & check that wheel and cable.

Just to conglomerate a few points left lying amongst the noise:

The HC seems to flow water. I detached the top HHose, stuck a finger in the nipple & squoze the bottom hose and water came out the top one. No path through the rest of the system means the HC must be flowing SOMEthing. Sure enough, when I drove it long enough, the HC box under the dash felt "warm" to me. Okay, I wouldn't brag about it, just being honest.

The fan makes noise when it's supposed to (and I know there isn't a true "OFF" position) except for the High, but SWMBO says if you it into High it sometimes works. So I'd suspect a switch as a likely cause for the dead spot. Problem is, as so many here have confirmed, the fan itself leaves much to be desired.
Originally Posted by volition
In my car with a brand new blower it's barley a wheeze at medium. These cars were notorious for the poor ventilation system.


The concept of "Fresh Air" blowing across the HC a-la so many other cars seems like a good stopgap measure at this point. Like all good Sharks, this one can't stop moving, so "forced air cockpit induction" would be nice. If the "outside air across the HC" door is vacuum operated, well... We get just enough vacuum to suck gas up to the Venturis and maybe pull a little advance on the spark, but there's a Big Hole somewhere in those miles of crusty old tubing which we're planning to get started tracking (likely by re-plumbing the entire vacuum distribution system) really soon now... Yes, the lights and wiper door are still "mano-a-mano"... We would push the heater vent door open too, but it is amazingly hard to find any such thing in our copy of the A.I.M., and it's not obvious behind the vestigal A/C box. And then there's pulling the dash ...

Here's the thing... We're staring down the gullet of a decade-level winter storm, and no chance puddles will thaw before next week sometime! If you're in America, you are too! Even with Global Warming, a Volvo-class heater and fan, and even if I plumbed the HC into the drivers seat (well, that might not be a bad idea... ) you won't see us po' southerners outside for a while!!

Yes, I will gratefully accept and use all the advice posted here, thus far and in the future, and hope all of you understand how deeply we Lizard lovers appreciate your taking the time to help us!!!! Just not until the world thaws out some.

Originally Posted by WhiteC3
laughing like I'm crazy.Or am I?
Remember, the cold air means you can run much faster. The adrenaline from that works wonders to keep you from feeling the cold! Crazy like a FOX! (and thank you for giving me a chance to use the twice!)

Originally Posted by GeorgeS
If the water is moving I put my money on the squirrel. (bird nest, rat, etc.)
Yessir! After all that time by the lake, this one had developed its own ecosystem! With the kind of attitude the jumping spiders had, I'd hate to tangle with a squirrel under there!!

That heater core in the drivers seat idea suddenly doesn't seem out of reach...

SWMBO says after a drive the cabin doesn't seem so cold; but I think that's just the adrenaline. SMWBO likes to touch the Quadrajet flame too...
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:29 AM
  #22  
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the thermostasts on both my vettes were leaking internally. now that i fixed them, i get good heat in 1-3 miles. was ~7 before
after 1.5 miles, touch the upper rad hose where it enters the rad. it should be COLD. if it is warm, that confirms the leak.
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