Adj Camber Rods: Hiem joints or Solid rubber ends?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Long Island, New York
Adj Camber Rods: Hiem joints or Solid rubber ends?
I ordered the adjustable strut (camber) rods with the Hiem joints. My local guy told me that the noise and vibration they add is not worth it unless it's a track car. Not too mention, which I read on other posts, that you have to constantly check the nuts are tight, due to the vibration. All of the above makes sense, but the theory behind the hiem joint that I read also makes sense. I am still going adjustable, but may go with solida ends with Rubber ot Poly. Which is worse to live with?
Race Director
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From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I can't really speak for the heim jointed versions myself. I do know that my car has run for the last 10 years with poly ends on non-adjustable camber rods and I had no problems with them. This past week I put in Van Steel Smart Struts with adjustable and poly ends. I do know the poly ends are a tight fit and would only go into place with the trailing arms raised up to around ride height because they do not flex enough to allow them to be square with the trailing arm. With the heims there should be no binding ever and should allow free movement of everything. While I was doing the install I was thinking I might buy the heims and add them to the current set up. If I don't like them I can go back to the poly easy enough.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Heims over rubber or poly. 
Rubber bushings are too compliant to maintain dynamic suspension alignment under heavy cornering loads.
Poly, while fine for control arm and anti-roll bars, isn't best suited for locations where movements are inherently in more than a single axis by design (as is the case with the camber struts and TA's), can transfer torque loads into the latter components and their attachments, and increases the likelihood of stiction in those points (squeaks from poly bushings are a positive indication of binding).
TSW
Rubber bushings are too compliant to maintain dynamic suspension alignment under heavy cornering loads.
Poly, while fine for control arm and anti-roll bars, isn't best suited for locations where movements are inherently in more than a single axis by design (as is the case with the camber struts and TA's), can transfer torque loads into the latter components and their attachments, and increases the likelihood of stiction in those points (squeaks from poly bushings are a positive indication of binding).
TSW
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Long Island, New York
Anyway, I have a stroker motor with side pipes. I think that combo will over power any noise or vibration from the hiem's!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I'd be leary of any alignment guy who is so set againts heims, and suggest you make sure he doesn't also have an "it's in the ballpark" attitude towards alignment tolerances.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Had OEM strut rods with poly bushings for 20 years and as noted above they squeaked and were certainly binding. Changed to competition adjustable strut rods with the the Heim joints 2 years ago and could not be happier. They are quiet, hold perfect alignment in all cornering loads, DO NOT LOOSEN UP, and have improved the ride and steering characteristics of the car immensely since there is no compliant bushing in the strut rod. Heim joints all the way!!!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Fremont CA
I have known a few people who have "lost" Heim jointed strut rods on street Vettes over the years. Even with the best Heim joints they will have to become a part to inspect for failure if exposed to street environment for a long service interval.
I don't like poly ended strut rods either as they bind in the movement of the suspension. I was once told a "speed secret" by a Vette autocrosser that you should leave the inner threads floating on your poly-struts to free-up the suspension (not me!) I prefer to run the early small diameter strut rods for my street cars.
There may be an answer in using "Johnny Joints" on poly-struts but, I don't know if they come in right sizes to fit the inner bracket.
I don't like poly ended strut rods either as they bind in the movement of the suspension. I was once told a "speed secret" by a Vette autocrosser that you should leave the inner threads floating on your poly-struts to free-up the suspension (not me!) I prefer to run the early small diameter strut rods for my street cars.
There may be an answer in using "Johnny Joints" on poly-struts but, I don't know if they come in right sizes to fit the inner bracket.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Long Island, New York
After reading the feedback on this and other threads, I'm sticking with the hiem joint rods. And I'm going to look around for some different opinions on local corvette alignment guys. Should probably start with asking the Long Island Corvette Association.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Tampa FL
I have been thinking Heim joint on one end and poly on the other would be a good compromise. I haven't seen any "off the shelf" like this though.
At any rate Poly with threaded ends is bad. I have Poly in the stock ones and it doesn't bind to badly because the shafts are thin diameter and have quite a bit of twistability to them.
At any rate Poly with threaded ends is bad. I have Poly in the stock ones and it doesn't bind to badly because the shafts are thin diameter and have quite a bit of twistability to them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I have been thinking Heim joint on one end and poly on the other would be a good compromise. I haven't seen any "off the shelf" like this though.
At any rate Poly with threaded ends is bad. I have Poly in the stock ones and it doesn't bind too [sic] badly because the shafts are thin diameter and have quite a bit of twistability to them.
At any rate Poly with threaded ends is bad. I have Poly in the stock ones and it doesn't bind too [sic] badly because the shafts are thin diameter and have quite a bit of twistability to them.
And, I would point out that any binding (as well as twisty links) affects suspension dynamics...
Instructor
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From: Dallas Texas
Keep in mind the OD of the mounting point of a shock mount bolt is .618 and the closest rod end available is .625. Therefore, its a good idea to go a size or two bigger on the outer end to make the machined sleeve easier to fabricate, not to mention the rod end will be beefier.
I have to change the outer rod end every other race as they tend to wear out easily.
I have to change the outer rod end every other race as they tend to wear out easily.
