I got some advice a week ago about 2-3 in. play in steering. Advice was to check rag joint. Which I did, and it is tight. Another advice was "adjust lash". I note the lash adjustor screw, but what does it do, and is it likely to reduce the play?
Thanks.
pb

 

Paul,
If it is not done right, it will ruin the steering box.

glassman74

 

you need to check the idler arm mounted on the pass side frame. it shoul have no play in it.

 

do you have power steering and if so are you doing your diagnosis with the mill running or stopped??

 

could it be the steering wheel itself? i'm no expert but it seems it can be finicky to the assembly processes.

 

It is power steering and it isn't the steering wheel, as the shaft and coupling turns with it.
pb

 

Paul,

Anybody that simply recommends blindly fooling around with the lash adjuster screw is best taken with a grain of salt. A box that needs more than just a tiny adjustment is most likely overdue for overhaul, and a tiny adjustment will not remove a large amount of steering play.


Find out exactly where the play originates and correct that.

 

you must start and idle the mill to check for "play" on a power steering vette....if you don't you will have what you describe....do not try adjusting the worm and sector as it is evident you have never been there before....read a service manual first before doing your diagnosis or take the car to an expert.....jmo

 

This probably isn't something that can be diagnosed online. The lash adjustment in the box can only take up some of the slack (gear lash) that exists in the box. If your steering has 2" - 3" of side-to-side play, it's likely a combination of steering component wear.

You need to put the car on stands and observe the linkage while someone turns the wheel. My guess is you will find slop in the rod ends and idler arm as well as the steering box. However, if most of the slop exists in the steering box, it's time for a replace/rebuild.

There are several posts on the Forum that detail the lash-adjustment procedure, but as an earlier poster mentioned, messing around with the lash adjustment can trash the box.

 

.....if he does'nt start the car, he will certainly have 2-3 inches of play at the wheel even on NEW components.....

 

Okay guys,
Thank you for the input. I jacked the car up, removed front wheel and my wife jiggled the steering wheel. I found that there is some slop in the idler arm; at least part of the problem.
As you can guess, I'm no mechanic (although I've had this car for 38 years this month)
I try to do as much as I can by myself, but there's no question that this is beyond my ability, so it's time to take it to the expert.
I do have the shop manual, but it's written for mechanics, I think.
Really, thank your for the input, and if someone says take it to the expert, I listen.
pb

 

Rag joint in my '74 was quite worn, prior owner told me about it...had it replaced, reduced a lot of the slop in the steering...

Kevin

 

Jim Shea has an excellent paper on adjusting the steering box. There are two adjustments and you have to do the two adjustments in the correct order. Adjusting and lubricating my box along with a new rag joint solved my really bad steering wheel play.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...erev14no08.doc

 

Inappropriate use of the BS flag...five yard penalty...automatic first down

I suggested that he observe the linkage, not the steering wheel. Looseness in the idler arm and rod ends--and in particular the difference in the input and output at the steering box--are visible indications of component wear, with or without the steering pump going.

Happy New Year

 

Yeah, I think it might be the box as the shaft turns going into the box, but doesn't turn with it out of the box. After reading Shea's article, I wonder if some slight adjustment would work.
Thanks for the input, guys.
pb

 

Come on guys there are a lot of factors that can contiribute to steering wheel play. Concentrating solely on the steering box is not the way to go. Wear in a lot of different parts could be a factor; tie-rods ends, control arm bushings, wheel bearings, idle arm, pitman arm, power steering mechanism and bushing. If three inches of play is in the steering box you need a new or rebuilt box. Adjusting that much play will put your steering in a bind.

 

You are right about the steering linkages contributing to steering wheel play and Jim's paper starts by saying you should check those things first before adjusting the box.

From personal experience, I have to disagree that 3 inches of play in the steering wheel is too much to adjust with the steering box. That's easy to adjust out with steering box adjustments. If measured at the diameter of the steering wheel it doesn't take much box slop to allow 1 1/2" left and right at the wheel.

 

all good advice...however we still dont know if the op is checking this with the engine RUNNING or not!!.....power steering cars will have that much slop with the mill stopped.....

 

But it infers that the box is heavily worn and in need of an inspection or overhaul. Screwing with the screw doesn't fix the problem, just masks it.

 

Couple of thoughts:

1. If everything in the suspension and steering is up to snuff as many have mentioned, THEN I would look at the box.

2. With the car 38 years old and if the box has not been rebuilt or replaced prior to now, He will probably never achieve tight steering since the grease in the box is most likely useless at this point and the components are most likely badly in need of a rebuild.

On my 78, I have replaced every component related to the suspension and steering EXCEPT the box components, and although the steering is close to no play, I can't eliminate that final amount of play. Spoke with GTR1999 on the forum, and he feels that with an OEM box that has never been rebuilt with my age car, it is almost a certainty that the box will have to be rebuilt since the grease is all dried up at this point and there is either some wear or in need of a rebuild setup to factory specs. Lucky, I live close enough to Gary that I can take the box and bring it to him in New Haven, CT where he can work his magic. From what Gary and others on the forum have told me, Gary will not only rebuild the OEM box but he blue prints (hand adjusts it), something that was never done at the factory when it was put together. The expectation is that the box will work better than when it was new. Recirculating Ball steering boxes are notorious for too much play even when new so even with everything up to snuff on my steering and suspension without a quality rebuild of the OEM box, steering play will remain an issue. Just don't want the OP to chase his tail on the steering wheel play issue!

PS-I have also heard from many that buying rebuilt boxes often does not solve the problem since the rebuilt boxes are not built to real tight tolerances-Thus my interest in having my OEM box rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing. No experience with aftermarket steering mechanisms that change the OEM setup completely.