In regard to any 64cc head (typical OE iron vortec included) when coupled w/ dished L48 motors.

assuming stock block & bore & L48 piston & 10105117 gasket (as I did above)... but with 64cc chamber ... yields scr VERY close to 9.1:1. Iron 64cc w/ THINNEST steel fp 1094 gasket yields scr VERY close to 9.3:1. FYI, some folks recommend steel gasket w/ Aluminum head; I do Not.

Vortecs are great heads but cannot run w/ OE C3 intake; ZZ4 heads do. Vortecs flow better than ZZ4 heads but require a new intake ($cost$). ZZ4 heads make more compression but can cost more $ than OE iron vortecs. OE ZZ4 heads are capable of more valve lift than OE iron vortecs. Everything's a trade-off. That relatively marginally-low scr w/64cc is why I suggested the 58cc ZZ4 heads in the first place. I've had/have both.

Me thinks if you could get the above new ZZ4 heads, rockers & bolts for less than $700 it'd be a good deal.

-add- per rio ... so right ... absolutely never raise compression on weak-sloppy pistons/rings/bearings.

 

ProComps ? a complete pair for under $ 700


http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1...0CC-HEADS.html

 

Seems ironic the site is called racingjunk. Aren't these the heads that get a lot of negative feedback from experts here? Do a search and you'll see what I mean. I think it's a case of you get what you pay for (or less).

 

They flow less than what a vortec flows with 40CC bigger ports for reduced midrange and off idle throttle response. That is if you get a good set. They really are a case of you get what you pay for unless you buy pro comps. Do an internet or forum search.

Back to back dyno results!
New Procomp 210 Vs
used stock GMC truck vortec vs
Brodix IK 180 vs
AFR 195 eliminators here.

http://www.boatstoreonline.com/procomp.html

 

Please elaborate. I'm about to start essentially the same project as the O.P. has stated. One of the cams being considered is an Edlebrock.

 

Good plan!

 

I have heard complaints over the past 10 years on this forum that the cams are too big ( duration and lift ) for a mild 350ci. Usually when bought in combination with a top end kit.

Now if you find an Edelbrock cam that meets your specifications then by all means go ahead and use it nothing wrong with the cam itself, it is matching the cam with the rest of the parts in the motor that is the key

 

Ive built a motor for my last vette. I didn't start it, I brought it to a local mechanic to make all the final adjustments and break-in. I've been doing research on cam specs ( confuses me ). Building the engine is the easy parts, its understanding all the specs so I can make an engine that will run well. I have to do more research on the details of building a strong engine and having the parts that will work well as a package. . Anyone out there want to set it up for me? I can only pay in beer, I hope thats not a problem.

 

Edelbrock doesnt grind cams. Edelbrock doesnt employ a cam designer.
Most of the cam grinds that Edelbrock sells as being "dyno matched" to their combo's existed before their heads were ever in production.
The same cams are sold by mass production companies such as Melling, Elgin, and several others for lower prices.
In general the Edelbrock cams (at least the flat tappets) have really lazy lobes. You can see this by looking at their .050" duration numbers compared to the advertised duration numbers. For the small block Chevy flat tappet RPM cam the numbers are 308/318 adv & 234/244 @ .050". A 300+ degree duration cam just doesnt have great low rpm and part throttle manners. Compare that to a modern grind like the Lunati Voodoo 60104 cam. It has .050" numbers of 233/241 which are very close to the Edelbrock cam, but its seat duration is only 276/284. It will be much easier to live with on a daily basis. It will have better throttle response, and low rpm performance while still having the same top end performance.
Pretty much any real cam company can grind you a better cam for your application than Edelbrock can sell you.
Im not trying to slam Edelbrock here. They make great intake manifolds and I own several myself.
Your just better off buying your cam from a cam company.

 

All of that for 325hp?

What would you do for 600hp? lol

 

I wouldnt use them

 

Those older "lazy" lobes will also last much longer and if you build the engine correctly can make more HP and RPM better, been there done that

 

I recently completed a "top overhaul" on my '77 and I'm very pleased with the performance. However, I will NEVER do that process again. I regret not pulling the engine and rebuilding it from bottom up. Yea, I have rebuilt '68 Z-28 Camaro heads, new cam/lifters, timing chain, Weiand intake, etc but I still have a lot of miles on the bottom and the rings. Plus I could have done some nice detailing of engine compartment and painted the block/pan etc.

I went to a longtime friend (builds racing engines) and he matched up all the goodies I installed on rebuild. Its my opinion that its far easier and cleaner to build the engine on a stand and then re-install..

My $.025 worth.. Good luck on your project...

Terry

 

I studied it again & agree w/ 63mako ... the L98/ZZ4 heads could use more cam than 1103 ... compared to many other heads' I v. E %, L98/ZZ4 heads can effectively use more intake lobe v. exhaust ... so I agree w/ 63 mako here ... and revise my first cam suggestion ... so w/ stock L48 I suggest L98/ZZ4 heads along w/ summit house brand cam & lifter kit sum-K1104 ... 465/465 224/224 ... still about $90 ... that'll be a better combo ... thanks to 63mako for suggesting another look.

so low-buck head & cam upgrade to stock L48 dished piston 350:

gm aluminum L98/ZZ4 heads, gm 10105117 head gaskets & sum-k1104 cam-lifter kit.

or

gm iron vortecs, vortec intake manifold, fp 1094 head gaskets & sum-k1103 cam-lifter kit.

or

IF you're simply rebuilding an L48 / dish motor and IF your OE L48 76cc heads need only servicing & freshening ... rebuild w/ small dome pistons sealed power H618CP, fp 1094 head gaskets & sum-k1103 cam-lifter kit.

 

None of the Performer RPM cams operate in an RPM range where it would not be beneficial to run a more modern grind. The sole possible exception would be the big block hydraulic roller stuff.
As far as longevity goes, if the new stuff will go 100,000 miles who cares if the old one will last longer.

 

FWIW I didnt take it that way, nor would I give two $h!t$ if it were intended that way. Ive recieved a lot of good info on this site while being a member. To be honest building an engine is easy, its the details of building an engine that will hurt you. Anyone can slap one together, it might not run right or run at all, but it will still be an engine. RIGHT??

I did NO research whatsoever on this before I posted the thread. I stumbled across the top end kits and just wanted some feedback. Which I recieved, thank you all for that . Knowing what I know now about the internals on the bottom end I dont think that I will be wasting my time or money on a top end. Although some of you provided good info, I dont see myself spending money on it while the foundation isn't all that great.

Although some of you may not agree with my approach, my plan is to buy a used block and build that. Then I will remove the stock and put in the new engine. You might say that its a waste of money and a perfectly good block, but I dont want the car sitting for however long its going to take me to finish the build. This way I can still take it out or move it if I need to. I can pick up a 350 block for $100-200, so IMO it is worth being able to drive the car the whole time Im building the other engine. I hope you can all find it in your hearts to forgive me for putting a running engine in the corner of my garage

 

Good plan.