Need brake caliper info
i have been reading posts related to brakes for a couple hours and have found some good info, but not exactly what i am looking for.
i have a 72 With leaking calipers.
i have never had the wheels off a vette before, but i do have the general knowledge that leaky calipers seem to be standard equipment, and that stainless steel sleeved calipers are the standard fix.
what i don't know is were the stock caliper piston bores just bored into the castings, or did they have a regular steel sleeve?
i pulled one caliper loose and it appears to be sleeved, but i didn't tear it down yet to be able to see if it is ss.
with any luck these are already ss sleeved and i only need kits.
also the pistons seem to wobble quite a bit, is this normal with these?
possibly these are the sleeves that compress the seals into the pistons as you push them in? i have only put about 500 miles on this car since i got it, and it has sat for a while. when i jacked it up to pull it apart i found a loose wheel bearing, and it appears that the rotor runout is a real issue with these, so i am guessing that is the cause of the leaks.
thanks for any info, Doug
Where to begin….
OK, Corvettes that sit, can have calipers that leak. Remember, brake fluid is hydroscopic and loves to soak up moisture. The car sits, no heat to drive off moisture, the walls of the caliper can rust and pit then leak. You hone the walls and rebuild. The situation repeats.
That is why many Corvette owners go with SS sleeves. It helps stop the cycle. Do you have SS sleeves? That I can’t tell you from here. Have an experience guy check it out. If not, consider them. Yes, the pistons wobble a bit in the sleeves. I have found O rings wobble a bit less on installation. But really not too much to worry about. Just make sure they are straight in the bores when you install the pads. I would also bleed the entire system to get out the old fluid and have the rotors cut to remove all the run-out. This would be a good time to put in fresh pads.
Replacing the wheel bearing is easy……getting the race to the bearing in and out is a bit tougher, but doable.


If not mark the position of the rotor and the hub so they go back together the same way.
Are you saying a front wheel bearing is bad? If so, you can replace that yourself.
A bad wheel bearing, or a improper adjustment will give you run out.
Before you turn the rotors read this http://www.oeqf.com/techinfo/index.htm








