Windshield header post???
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,411
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From: Dandridge TN
Windshield header post???
Is the header post on the windshield frame on a conv. the same as on a coupe? I have been looking for a conv. cowl and haven't had any luck. I found a coupe cowl that is in excellent shape, but was wondering about the differences on the header post. I think the rest of the cowl is just about the same. I know the conv. header has the middle clip for the rag top to attach to. Can I get that piece somewhere to make the coupe cowl work? Is there anybody out there that can give me some advise on this? :confused:
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Windshield header post??? (Steve Adkins)
sI am told it will work, but never did it myself, so I can't actually swear to it's working.....
however, you need a good welder anyway, have him/you....weld in the steel as necessary to make it up....
BTW, I got very lucky on my car, as the entire piece was sandblasted and painted, no holes at all, and to insure that there never will be, I loaded it up with 2-3 tubes of RTV silicone black from a hardware store...caulking gun size.....never a drop leaks now....my car being a '72 has that wiper door, and trim pieces on the fenders...I sealed hell out of that entire fender/post/glass area, just loaded it up...no more leaks inside....I suspect the front was never off my car, as so that part on top of the A pillar joining in the windshiled post was never exposed for prep and painting...so I had to stop the water, so that's what I did, and it worked great....
GENE
however, you need a good welder anyway, have him/you....weld in the steel as necessary to make it up....
BTW, I got very lucky on my car, as the entire piece was sandblasted and painted, no holes at all, and to insure that there never will be, I loaded it up with 2-3 tubes of RTV silicone black from a hardware store...caulking gun size.....never a drop leaks now....my car being a '72 has that wiper door, and trim pieces on the fenders...I sealed hell out of that entire fender/post/glass area, just loaded it up...no more leaks inside....I suspect the front was never off my car, as so that part on top of the A pillar joining in the windshiled post was never exposed for prep and painting...so I had to stop the water, so that's what I did, and it worked great....
GENE
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Dandridge TN
Re: Windshield header post??? (mrvette)
Thanks Gene for your input. I would reuse mine, but the whole cowl area is rusted out, that's why I am looking for another one. So you think I can make that middle latch from scratch? I have a good welder and fairly good welding skills. I didn't think of that. :yesnod: :cool:
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
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From: margate florida
Re: Windshield header post??? (Steve Adkins)
well steve i just happen to have the same thing with my convertible when i bought the car it was in need of some finish work as i started putting thigs together i ran in to some problems one of wich was the wonge windshield header there is a long cut out in the middle of the coupesheader that is for the T bar center of the t-tops the in side trim is the same what i did was cut a pice of metal the size of the opening used the exsisting screw holes and screwed it in place the inside trim will cover it all up you will then need to drill new holes for the center latch hold down end the rear view mirror hope this helps work well for me jim :D
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
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From: margate florida
Re: Windshield header post??? (Steve Adkins)
well steve i just happen to have the same thing with my convertible when i bought the car it was in need of some finish work as i started putting things together i ran in to some problems one of wich was the wonge windshield header there is a long cut out in the middle of the coupes header that is for the T bar center of the t-tops the inside trim is the same with a long cut out what i did was cut a pice of metal the size of the opening used the exsisting screw holes and screwed it in place the inside trim will cover it all up you will then need to drill new holes for the center latch hold down and the rear view mirror hope this helps work well for me jim :D
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,411
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From: Dandridge TN
Re: Windshield header post??? (1970LS6)
Thanks Jim, that helps alot. I don't have a center latch hold down for the top to latch to, is that something that can be made also? All your info has helped alot! :cheers:
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 152
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From: margate florida
Re: Windshield header post??? (Steve Adkins)
i had the center hold down with the car i would think that part is around check with some venders i don't remember if it is part of the mirror assembly i'll have to check and get back to you later :D
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: Jackson, MS USA
Re: Windshield header post??? (1970LS6)
Just replaced the header in my car. Purchased it from Paragon. It was an easy job (with a mig welder). However, the new one is pricey, so I understand why you are shopping around. My understanding is the coupe frame will work just fine. The vert piece I ordered from Paragon was bare bones, no mounting attachments or holes whatsoever, all that is up to you.
However, I do not know if you should silicone caulk. I know, I know, you use silicone all over cars with no problems, including engines. The following may be anecdotal, but while I said it was an easy job, I am not eager to do it again. The glass guy that took my windshield out said that using silicone caulk can cause problems. He stated that some silicone caulks have a high acid content. The high acid contributes to premature corrosion of the windshield frame components????????????????????????? Maybe BS, however, any place that needs a caulk type compound, I am going to check with a bodyshop supply house and make sure it is compatible with the metal and paint which it will be going on. Come to think of it, that is probably not a bad idea for all my projects. :)
However, I do not know if you should silicone caulk. I know, I know, you use silicone all over cars with no problems, including engines. The following may be anecdotal, but while I said it was an easy job, I am not eager to do it again. The glass guy that took my windshield out said that using silicone caulk can cause problems. He stated that some silicone caulks have a high acid content. The high acid contributes to premature corrosion of the windshield frame components????????????????????????? Maybe BS, however, any place that needs a caulk type compound, I am going to check with a bodyshop supply house and make sure it is compatible with the metal and paint which it will be going on. Come to think of it, that is probably not a bad idea for all my projects. :)
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Dandridge TN
Re: Windshield header post??? (MoneyPit)
MoneyPit,
Thanks for the info! When you say the header you bought was bare bones do you mean that it didn't have the middle latch used for the top to latch on to? If it didn't what did you do to make it work? If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the header?
Thanks for the info! When you say the header you bought was bare bones do you mean that it didn't have the middle latch used for the top to latch on to? If it didn't what did you do to make it work? If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the header?
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 394
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From: Jackson, MS USA
Re: Windshield header post??? (Steve Adkins)
I can't remember exactly what I paid for it. It is in the Paragon catalog. I wanted it the next day, so I paid for Saturday delivery. I think total (for the windshield header frame and the two corners) it was about $350-375 maybe slightly more, but about $40 of that was shipping. All I have done to this point is weld the frame on, I do not even have a windshield in right now. When I say bare bones, I mean bare bones. It came with nothing but the frame rail itself. No predrilled holes no nothing. I think the top latch striker you are speaking of is screwed to the frame rail. At least that is how I remember my 69 is set up.