Trailing Arm Front Bolt
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 552
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From: Oneida WI
Trailing Arm Front Bolt
1971 Vette. I am currently waiting for VanSteel to return my rebuilt trailing arms. My concern is reinstalling the front bolt for the trailing arm. There is very little room to put the bolt back in with the small space and brake line bracket in the way. Will the new bolt with new front bushings have to be hammered or pressed in? Will the holes in the frame have to be filed out slightly?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Just apply a good coat of your favorite anti seize and slide it back in. (Make sure it slides thru the trailing arm first)..
I used a long hemostat to start the bolts, some tie a string on and fish that thru. there are lots of ways to fish that bolt in. PITA, but not impossible,
I used a long hemostat to start the bolts, some tie a string on and fish that thru. there are lots of ways to fish that bolt in. PITA, but not impossible,
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 295
Likes: 2
From: Columbus OH
This is how I approached it. Let me start by saying my hand was small enough to fit inside the rear kickup area with some manuevering. I tilted the bolt upward at a 45 degree angle holding it with my first two fingers and slipped the bolt into the kickup area. I turned my hand and pushed the bolt into the hole, about half way. I supported the trailing arm under the rear spring mounting hole with a 4x4 piece of wood and set the trailing arm in the frame pocket. I put my hand back into the kickup area, made sure the trailing arm was as straight as possible and pushed the bolt into the bushing, through about an inch or so. This will allow you to move the trailing arm out, toward the outer hole and get the bolt through enough to thread the castle nut. You only need a few exposed threads to start the castle nut. Finally, I started to tighten the castle nut to seat the bolt, slid the trailing arm to the center of the frame pocket, replaced shims and torqued the nut to specs. This took a few tries, but be patient it worked for me. The first couple times when I moved the trailing arm to get the bolt through the outer hole I didn't have it lined up correctly and the bolt would push back, out of the trailing arm. Again, patience as it can be done. 
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
If your getting a rotor on the t-arm from us the rotor and spindle will both have a stamp on each with the word ALIGN on it. Remove the rotor before you install the arm. Like mentioned above, use anti-sieze on the bolt. I use 11" needle nose pliers to shimmy the bolt into the inner hole. Also don't forget to put a washer on the bolt before you slide it though the inboard side hole. Than stick the arm in and use the needle nose pliers to help push the bolt through. Be carefull when holding the arm as the backing plates are sharp and can easily cut your hands up. Gloves would help.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
If your getting a rotor on the t-arm from us the rotor and spindle will both have a stamp on each with the word ALIGN on it. Remove the rotor before you install the arm. Like mentioned above, use anti-sieze on the bolt. I use 11" needle nose pliers to shimmy the bolt into the inner hole. Also don't forget to put a washer on the bolt before you slide it though the inboard side hole. Than stick the arm in and use the needle nose pliers to help push the bolt through. Be carefull when holding the arm as the backing plates are sharp and can easily cut your hands up. Gloves would help.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
The old bolts were never greased or had anti-sieze on them so the tend to rust together, especially if the car sat. They can be a nightmare to remove at times.
