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I have tried everything to get rid of the “pinging” during acceleration. Timing, carb adjustment and using the highest octane fuel at the gas station. I have heard some folks talk about using an octane booster. Does this work? Which brand is the best, it seems that there are a lot to choose from. Oh ya, 1970 350/300.
I use Lucas octane booster. What brand has are you using. When you buy premium gas at a substandard station is a wash. I have always bought Shell or Chevron. One time I decided to use the gas at a convenience store and had to take my carb apart and clean it out. never again. Pinging, knocking and just running like crap.
But boosters only jump up the octane by a very minimal amount.
I use Lucas octane booster. What brand has are you using. When you buy premium gas at a substandard station is a wash. I have always bought Shell or Chevron. One time I decided to use the gas at a convenience store and had to take my carb apart and clean it out. never again. Pinging, knocking and just running like crap.
But boosters only jump up the octane by a very minimal amount.
I haven't been using any booster upto this point. I usually buy Exxon 94 because I have an Exxon credit card that gives rebates on every gallon I buy.
I have tried everything to get rid of the “pinging” during acceleration. Timing, carb adjustment and using the highest octane fuel at the gas station. I have heard some folks talk about using an octane booster. Does this work? Which brand is the best, it seems that there are a lot to choose from. Oh ya, 1970 350/300.
If the timing is correct, the carb not to lean, and engine not having a overheat problem then you most likely have a carbon problem. GM sells a kit for this problem. There are alot of products on the market for carbon the best I think is Techron.
If the timing is correct, the carb not to lean, and engine not having a overheat problem then you most likely have a carbon problem. GM sells a kit for this problem. There are alot of products on the market for carbon the best I think is Techron.
There is only about 7000 miles on the rebuilt engine. Could it carb up that fast. It's driven on the highway most of the time at or "just slightly over" speed limit!
There is only about 7000 miles on the rebuilt engine. Could it carb up that fast. It's driven on the highway most of the time at or "just slightly over" speed limit!
Yes it is possible with todays gas and the methanol and or ethanol they add to the gas for emissions. Any alcohol makes carbon.
Try pulling a spark plug and look at the plug and inside the hole. You should be able to see top of the piston with a small flashlight and mirror.
Also your carb can be rich and run good and also create a lot of hydrocarbons ie carbon. If possible have it hooked up to a C.O. machine and see what the emissions are. That will tell the whole story.
If your compression ratio is high that can cause a ping. To much full timing advance can cause it to.
If you are using the stock air cleaner, there is a thermostatic valve inside that opens the fresh air door when the heat riser has provided some preheated air. You can't see the door with the hose extension on, but if you remove the hose you can confirm the door is open when the engine is warm (providing ambient air). If it is closed, the constant preheated air will cause pinging.
I never checked. I suppose that I should do that, but when the engine fired right up after rebuild I kind or put that on the back burner.
What was your head combustion chamber cc size? If it is stock we could assume 64cc. So the pistons you installed were they flat top with two or 4 valve reliefs.
If we can establish 10.5 or less static compression ratio I think it can be fixed with a proper distributor advance curve. I ran 10.7 with iron heads. One problem is to much dynamic C/R by using a cam without enough duration. What is it from your cam card.
What was your head combustion chamber cc size? If it is stock we could assume 64cc. So the pistons you installed were they flat top with two or 4 valve reliefs.
If we can establish 10.5 or less static compression ratio I think it can be fixed with a proper distributor advance curve. I ran 10.7 with iron heads. One problem is to much dynamic C/R by using a cam without enough duration. What is it from your cam card.
I am not that experienced of a mechanic to know much about compression. I have only rebuilt two engines in my life, one, a hundred years ago in high school and this one. I bought one of those rebuild kits with everything including the pistons and cam. The pistons were flat though. I followed the steps in a rebuild book to the letter. Engine fired right up.
I have a few suggestions, most help only marginally at best:
Plugs: Try a colder spark plug
Thermostat: Try a 160 degree thermostat
Retard the timing (which will knock the bottom end out of your performance and gas mileage.
The best solution (but costs $$$): CAM 2 RACING GASOLINE (From the website):
"Cam 2" is the generic name used for Sunoco Race Fuels. You can expect the same consistent high quality performance from Cam 2 Racing Gasoline that you get from Sunoco Race Fuels because the names are interchangeable. It is the same product, made in the same facility by the same people. We use this name wherever the "Sunoco" brand name cannot be used, such as gasoline outlets which carry a competing brand of street gasoline. Cam 2 is available in 110, 112, and 116 octane leaded, and 100 and 104 unleaded.
I had a 1970 350
In NJ 93 octane is not always 93. Some times I fill up my car and it pings. Then I add a bottle of booster and it go's away but most of the times I buy Sunoco 93 and never have a problem.
Try Lucas octane booster. I remember seeing testing of octane boosters and of all that the auto parts stores sell Lucas performed the best. In there test one bottle will turn 10 gal. of 93 into 96.5
I have a 1970 350/300 and had the same problem, nothing worked. I now mix 3 gallons of Sunoco 110 leaded to the highest octane pump gas. The car runs great and does not ping.
Also, let me add that octane boosters are usually useless. They tell you that they will raise your octane 4 or 5 points. If you run 93 octane you would think that means 97 or 98. It actually means 93.4 or 93.5 octane.
http://www.kemcooil.com/specials.php I have used this when when I couldn't get premium, stopped the pinging and if you add enough you'll blow a gray pipe
Yes Sir; Had the pinging problem, with my 80. Found the distributor main shaft bushings were letting the shaft go wherever it wanted to, wore out like me. New Mallory installed and problem solved. Check it out, Have a nice day. Gene
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