Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: FL
Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem
Well, I got to looking at my standard (non-hydraulic) clutch linkage, and I found that the ball stud that supports the inboard end of the Z-bar and threads into the engine block has stripped its threads and is just wobbling around in there. $&@*#
Since I'd rather not replace the engine block right now, I figure it's going to need some fixing, so here's what I've been thinking:
1. Get some kind of drill up in there, doing contortions around the driver's-side header and other things in the way, and enlarge the hole.
2. Tap the new hole with threads.
3. Thread in a helicoil to reduce the thread size back to that of the ball stud.
People have suggested trying JBWeld before doing all that, though I have little faith in glue.
Any ideas you might have to make it easier to drill the hole are welcome. I have a right angle attachment for my drill, but I don't know whether I'm going to have room.
At least one other person I've talked to has recommended getting a compressor and an air-powered drill motor, which is very small I understand.
Alas, I can remove the header if I have to. It just makes the job bigger.
BTW, when I put it all together I'm going to use these parts, currently on order: http://www.speeddirect.com/Products/...h_linkage.html
-Noel
[Modified by Noel Carboni, 6:40 PM 3/6/2002]
Since I'd rather not replace the engine block right now, I figure it's going to need some fixing, so here's what I've been thinking:
1. Get some kind of drill up in there, doing contortions around the driver's-side header and other things in the way, and enlarge the hole.
2. Tap the new hole with threads.
3. Thread in a helicoil to reduce the thread size back to that of the ball stud.
People have suggested trying JBWeld before doing all that, though I have little faith in glue.
Any ideas you might have to make it easier to drill the hole are welcome. I have a right angle attachment for my drill, but I don't know whether I'm going to have room.
At least one other person I've talked to has recommended getting a compressor and an air-powered drill motor, which is very small I understand.
Alas, I can remove the header if I have to. It just makes the job bigger.
BTW, when I put it all together I'm going to use these parts, currently on order: http://www.speeddirect.com/Products/...h_linkage.html
-Noel
[Modified by Noel Carboni, 6:40 PM 3/6/2002]
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 276
Likes: 1
From: Arlington Texas
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
Noel: You're on the right track with the Helicoil approach. I would recommend all the access room you can get. Bite the bullet and remove the header. JB Weld is just an epoxy. It won't stand up to the forces exerted on the clutch system. I tried a Helicoil on an exhaust header bolt hole on a 454 in a motor home. I was too late, the owner had messed up the hole trying the get the broken bolt out. He had to repalce the head.
The key is PATIENCE!! Good Luck
The key is PATIENCE!! Good Luck
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: spring city pa
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
Noel ,, , helicoils are made to repair damaged threads as I,m sure you already know .Take the ball out and buy a helicoil kit to match the threads on the bellcrank ball . The kit will include the proper tap etc. There is a VERY GOOD chance that you can tap the hole and install the helicoil without any drilling . Avoid the drill if at all possible , as cast iron really does not lend itself to freehand drilling . Good luck
Geo :rolleyes:
[Modified by ram82fire, 2:13 PM 3/6/2002]
Geo :rolleyes:
[Modified by ram82fire, 2:13 PM 3/6/2002]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 1
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Kingt)
Helicoil is the only way to go for this kind of reapir. Don't hesitate to shorten a drill bit to make room. You may have to unbolt the header but I think with a right angle drill there will be room.
Chris
Chris
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: FL
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (71roadster)
Don't hesitate to shorten a drill bit to make room.
I will certainly scope out the hole to ensure I really do need to drill it.
-Noel
Racer
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 414
Likes: 3
From: Mineral Ridge Ohio
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
When you drill the hole for the Helicoil insert, you might want to think about using a stop collar on the drill bit so you lessen the chance that the bit will pull itself deeper into the hole than you really want it to go. I don't know what is behind the hole, but I'm pretty sure that you don't want to find out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,080
Likes: 0
From: Exiled Tampa Bay Misfit
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
If you have the room (can't picture what else is around the hole right now) you might want to go for a threaded insert insted of a helicoil. Helicoils are good for low stress applications but a threaded insert is much stronger. The downside is the hole necessary for a threaded insert is much larger than that of a helicoil.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: MALDEN MA
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
How about mig welding the ball stud on for now... 2-3 Tacks should be enough for a solid temp fix...When you go for a rebuild you grind the tacks off with a grinder and you do it right....I know It's bubbad...But it is a solid temp fix...Good luck
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: FL
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (BADCAIMAN)
How about mig welding the ball stud on for now?
Failing that, there's plenty of room on the pad where that hole is, so a threaded insert could be a better approach.
Thanks, all, for the suggestions. :)
-Noel
[Modified by Noel Carboni, 10:08 PM 3/6/2002]
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: MALDEN MA
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
Would make a quick permanent/temp fix...If latter on you have the time and the patience to tackle it..You just cut of the tacks and go at it....Since the stress is placed front to back..A few tacks should hold it solid..And like you said you can still service it...Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
Noel, you might look at using the bellhousing bolts to support a large 2" angle iron piece, weld up what you need, even trim the bellcrank if necessary, save the cut off piece for future welding back together if need be....
but making a bracket from 1/8-3/16 steel and a bit of fab work is the way to go as getting any drill in position and keeping it square while drilling for any insert is going to be hugely difficult, I know I would not even try...
engine on a stand, sure no sweat...in the car....I doubt it....
go for it..superman>>>> :D :cool: :cheers:
but making a bracket from 1/8-3/16 steel and a bit of fab work is the way to go as getting any drill in position and keeping it square while drilling for any insert is going to be hugely difficult, I know I would not even try...
engine on a stand, sure no sweat...in the car....I doubt it....
go for it..superman>>>> :D :cool: :cheers:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 8,220
Likes: 208
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
Noel, all I can add here is that I have one of those Speed directs clutch linkages waiting to be installed and it looks good, sorry that I can't give you more info yet... :cry :cheers:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 922
Likes: 164
From: Hudson NH
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (Noel Carboni)
Noel,
When I originally purchased my Mark IV Bow Tie block, the boss for the clutch linkage ball was not drilled and tapped. Imagine my surprise when I drilled and tapped and struck water! I guess the water jackets on the Bow Tie blocks are different from standard non-siamesed Mark IV blocks.
In any event, I had to epoxy (JB Weld) the clutch pivot ball to the block to eliminate coolant leakage. Teflon tape, goop and RTV were all ineffective. I have been running w/ the JB Weld fix for over 7 years without any problems.
I would not hesitate to use JB Weld for your repair, although I admit to liking the tack weld approach.
Good luck,
Mark
When I originally purchased my Mark IV Bow Tie block, the boss for the clutch linkage ball was not drilled and tapped. Imagine my surprise when I drilled and tapped and struck water! I guess the water jackets on the Bow Tie blocks are different from standard non-siamesed Mark IV blocks.
In any event, I had to epoxy (JB Weld) the clutch pivot ball to the block to eliminate coolant leakage. Teflon tape, goop and RTV were all ineffective. I have been running w/ the JB Weld fix for over 7 years without any problems.
I would not hesitate to use JB Weld for your repair, although I admit to liking the tack weld approach.
Good luck,
Mark
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,635
Likes: 0
From: Union Ontario
Re: Clutch Linkage Ball Stud Problem (ML67)
All I say is don't leave it. Mine fell out once, that is a bitch of a drive with no clutch pedal, as long as you don't have to stop you are alright but it sucks.
I would first try the helicoil route but if that doesn't work I'd see if someone makes one with an oversized thread, and as a last resort, weld the the stud in.
I would first try the helicoil route but if that doesn't work I'd see if someone makes one with an oversized thread, and as a last resort, weld the the stud in.
