Alternator Bracket pics needed
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
Alternator Bracket pics needed
I am needing a few photos of the stock alternator bracket setup on an 80. I bought a chrome upper arm today, and it's different than the one that came with the car. It's longer, has 2 bolt holes close together, and I presume that it's meant to bolt to the power steering bracket holes on the block. The only problem that I foresee is that the arm would come almost straight up, rather than the angle that you see in the photos below. I really want ALL aluminum brackets and such, but my understanding is that the brackets are all different on the Vettes. Is that true? Can someone shed some light on this for me?
The arm that I got looks like this one..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-C...Q5fAccessories
Here is how the brackets were arranged when I got the car, and it was all sorts of messed up. What am I missing here...since the washers on the bracket are NOT the look I am after.
The arm that I got looks like this one..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-C...Q5fAccessories
Here is how the brackets were arranged when I got the car, and it was all sorts of messed up. What am I missing here...since the washers on the bracket are NOT the look I am after.
Last edited by mydejavooo; Jan 28, 2010 at 09:40 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
I have a GM 350 HO Deluxe crate engine in my '80 but I used the stock alternator brackets without any spacers. I haven't had any problems with alignment. I can get a better picture if you tell me what angle/view you want.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
Deja
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
MN....can you take a picture at the front and at a 45 degree? I'm just trying to figure out if I need to take that new bracket arm back as well, since it looks like it would be too long to bolt to the inner lower bracket bolt, and really looks like it would bolt to the lower power steering cradle bolts...the 2 vertical ones. Thanks!!
Deja
Deja
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 1
From: Greensboro NC
[QUOTE=mydejavooo;1572912217]
Here is how the brackets were arranged when I got the car, and it was all sorts of messed up. What am I missing here...since the washers on the bracket are NOT the look I am after.
Were you to remove ALL those washers, intall the lower mount directly to the head, and locate the upper mount to the rear of the alternator, things should line up as they are supposed to.
The only problem might be that if your WP has been changed to a non-vette WP.
As far as the new piece you've bought? Return it. I had that same POS on my car, and it went into the trash for a good reason....
Here is how the brackets were arranged when I got the car, and it was all sorts of messed up. What am I missing here...since the washers on the bracket are NOT the look I am after.
Were you to remove ALL those washers, intall the lower mount directly to the head, and locate the upper mount to the rear of the alternator, things should line up as they are supposed to.
The only problem might be that if your WP has been changed to a non-vette WP.
As far as the new piece you've bought? Return it. I had that same POS on my car, and it went into the trash for a good reason....
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
It also looks like you have a P/S Alt bracket. That's why its shimmed too. I went to DocRebuild. He has all the illustations of all the C3 years but you need his catalog because the web site is useless. 
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Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
[QUOTE=KTKelly;1572916960]
Here is how the brackets were arranged when I got the car, and it was all sorts of messed up. What am I missing here...since the washers on the bracket are NOT the look I am after.
Were you to remove ALL those washers, intall the lower mount directly to the head, and locate the upper mount to the rear of the alternator, things should line up as they are supposed to.
The only problem might be that if your WP has been changed to a non-vette WP.
....
I agree, KTK.
Say the arm gets relocated behind the alt ear and most washers removed, isn't that going to setback the alternator's pulley and throw the alignment?
Can't say for sure but it looks like the WP & crank pulleys line up. Noticed the upper rad hose takes the scenic route to the radiator, too.
Fixin' Bubba issues are always a challenge, eh?
Here is how the brackets were arranged when I got the car, and it was all sorts of messed up. What am I missing here...since the washers on the bracket are NOT the look I am after.
Were you to remove ALL those washers, intall the lower mount directly to the head, and locate the upper mount to the rear of the alternator, things should line up as they are supposed to.
The only problem might be that if your WP has been changed to a non-vette WP.
....
Say the arm gets relocated behind the alt ear and most washers removed, isn't that going to setback the alternator's pulley and throw the alignment?
Can't say for sure but it looks like the WP & crank pulleys line up. Noticed the upper rad hose takes the scenic route to the radiator, too.
Fixin' Bubba issues are always a challenge, eh?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,356
From: Santa Ana CA
[QUOTE=Dustup7T2;1572918361]
No.
In your case, they've used the stack of washers to push the entire alternator forward and align the pullies. In the other case you just relocate the entire alternator forward without the washer stack to align the pullies.
Either way, if the pullies are aligned, the alternator sits in the same spot (front to rear).
If you really want to firm things up, you can put the J-bars on both sides of the alternator.
In your case, they've used the stack of washers to push the entire alternator forward and align the pullies. In the other case you just relocate the entire alternator forward without the washer stack to align the pullies.
Either way, if the pullies are aligned, the alternator sits in the same spot (front to rear).
If you really want to firm things up, you can put the J-bars on both sides of the alternator.
Last edited by toddalin; Jan 29, 2010 at 01:42 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 1
From: west central INDIANA
Snoopy has the correct 3 groove WP pulley, And MN80 has the lower alt bracket mounted flush with cyl. head, as it should be. Your WP is Aftermarket, but should be the same as stock. Take those 3 washers out from behind the bracket, on each bolt. And also take 3 of 4 washers out, from between the bracket and the adjustment arm. move the adjustment arm to the rear side of the Alt. I think this should work.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
A trip to my local speed shop has revealed that my previous owner, Bubba, was HARD at work on the front end of this engine. I have a short water pump (Weiand), and the owner had managed to put a long water pump pulley on the short water pump nose...and of course he had to adjust the spacing with those TERRIBLE flat washers. No wonder that thing would squeal even when it was tight....the belt was not running true in the groove.
I bought an aluminum water pump pulley, a 3-groove crank pulley, and will be rectifying the washer setup, so hopefully this will entirely eliminate the problems that I have been experiencing. I don't have AC, so one of the pulley grooves will be left open, but that's no biggie. Short of getting a new power steering pulley, messing around with getting the old pressed on pulley off, yada, yada, yada....that will be the best solution here.
And DANG those pulleys areexpensive. I should have just gone with a Gilmer setup right from the get-go, but belts are not readily availble for that setup. Maybe if I win the lotto....
I'll post pictures with the setup all mounted this weekend. Thanks everyone for the photos, it's really appreciated!!!!
Deja
I bought an aluminum water pump pulley, a 3-groove crank pulley, and will be rectifying the washer setup, so hopefully this will entirely eliminate the problems that I have been experiencing. I don't have AC, so one of the pulley grooves will be left open, but that's no biggie. Short of getting a new power steering pulley, messing around with getting the old pressed on pulley off, yada, yada, yada....that will be the best solution here.
And DANG those pulleys areexpensive. I should have just gone with a Gilmer setup right from the get-go, but belts are not readily availble for that setup. Maybe if I win the lotto....
I'll post pictures with the setup all mounted this weekend. Thanks everyone for the photos, it's really appreciated!!!!
Deja
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
Alt bracket on 1980
Looking at your photos tells me that the alternator on your car is not the original 1980 style. It looks like a newer style according to the fan and pulley in the photo. This might be the reason for all of the washers between the main alternator mount and the cylinder head.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
Snoopy your pic has intrigued me and I have a question for anyone here. Notice how snoopy has a third pully extension on his water pump that is in alignment with the power steering pulleys. Would anyone have objections to me if I were to want to buy this extension and route my power steering belt all the way up around the water pump as well? (obviously a new sized belt from stock setup)
The reason I ask is because I have had so damn many power steering issues with the belt flying off.... the most recent being that the stud on the back of the pump snapped off
I already have a new pump but I was going to modify the tension retaining system myself in a non-bubba way (machine shop and all) If all three of my belts went up over the water pump that would seem exceptionally solid to me.
I have plenty of clearance between my Rad and my clutch fan, and want to give this a shot. Please object if you foresee any problems, like triple rpm belt interference based on the loads of the accessories and what not... I dont want do destroy belts or accessories!
The reason I ask is because I have had so damn many power steering issues with the belt flying off.... the most recent being that the stud on the back of the pump snapped off
I already have a new pump but I was going to modify the tension retaining system myself in a non-bubba way (machine shop and all) If all three of my belts went up over the water pump that would seem exceptionally solid to me.I have plenty of clearance between my Rad and my clutch fan, and want to give this a shot. Please object if you foresee any problems, like triple rpm belt interference based on the loads of the accessories and what not... I dont want do destroy belts or accessories!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,356
From: Santa Ana CA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,356
From: Santa Ana CA
Snoopy your pic has intrigued me and I have a question for anyone here. Notice how snoopy has a third pully extension on his water pump that is in alignment with the power steering pulleys. Would anyone have objections to me if I were to want to buy this extension and route my power steering belt all the way up around the water pump as well? (obviously a new sized belt from stock setup)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,356
From: Santa Ana CA
Actually the belts are used as timing belts on heavy equipment and are readily available in a wealth of lengths.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 209
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
). My hypothesis was that the third point of contact across from the point of tensioning would actually stabilize the system by eliminating excess up-down travel of the elastic belt, much like a serpentine is stabilized by all sorts of pulleys. Just a hypothesis but please explain your reasoning by gentler curve