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Speedometer Cable Noise & Bounce

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Old Mar 6, 2002 | 03:21 PM
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Default Speedometer Cable Noise & Bounce

My speedometer cable is getting louder each time I drive the car, 71 w/man.

Can it be lubricated or do I just need to replace it?

How difficult will this be in terms of the time it will take?

Thank!! :flag
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Old Mar 6, 2002 | 03:38 PM
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Default Re: Speedometer Cable Noise & Bounce (Mike1971)

catalogs sell an adapter that you can connect to the cable on the tranny end, it had a zirk fitting, pump 2-3 pumps only or you fill your speedo with grease! i made one from the tach cross drive bushing out of an old distributor, the ID of the bushing will allow you to thread in a zirk fitting, and that one was free. Lubing will stop the noise and bounce though. also works for the tach cable but use less pumps, the cable is shorter.


[Modified by HWY 9 - '69, 11:39 AM 3/6/2002]
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Old Mar 6, 2002 | 04:39 PM
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Default Re: Speedometer Cable Noise & Bounce (Mike1971)

Mike1971,
My experience has been when it starts getting noisy and bouncy the cable is starting to fray. You may get by with repalcing the cable, but if there is a burr in the housing you will need to replace it as well. Good luck.
Ed
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Old Mar 6, 2002 | 05:23 PM
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Default Re: Speedometer Cable Noise & Bounce (ED DINAPOLI)

The hard part is getting it to turn loose from rear of the speedometer. It almost takes two hands to work the clip and pull the cable. The tranny end is just gonna be greasy. Not to big a job. Replaced mine with a universal from autozone. The length is not anywhere close to right. About 6-8 inches long, but it works.
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Old Mar 6, 2002 | 05:54 PM
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Default Re: Speedometer Cable Noise & Bounce (Mike1971)

Generally speaking, when the tach or speedo starts to bounce, especially when it makes noise...you need to pull the entire dash, making cable replacement a snap, then take the offending unit apart very carefully, just take your fingers and very carefully pull the indicator needle off the pivot pin...
as you delicately take it apart on the dining room table, laying out each piece, under good light, you can spot eventually two screws holding a horseshoe shaped bracket to the potmetal casting/main housing...remove them and note the tiney pivot parts on the needle....all this and the main input bearing needs oiled....I just use thinnest oil I can find....tranny fluid on a Q tip or even WD40 just a smidge will free up all that old dried oil and upon reassembly you will find it's quiet and smooth indicating....it takes time, but the most frustrating thing is taking those damn dashes out...
I simplified MY dash to the point I can have the whole damn thing in my fist in about 20 minits, maybe less on a good day....

these are very common problems with any old car....
cable is best replaced just DO IT and get over with it...
housing has to be plenty torn up for it to need replaced...
mostly a good amount of lock graphite is good for cable...but once again WD40 has saved more than one cable assy for me.....

be ME, replace the mechanical tach if you have one with electronic, and get over the expensive problems....do it once and forgetaboutit....

GENE
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