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I have power to both sides of the plug that goes into the power window motor, however the motors won't work. If I take a lead from the positive side of the battery and touch either terminal on the window motor, the window will go up and down. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Wow.. You might have a ground issue with the motor. run a separate ground from the motor and try it. If you get the same results, then see what the voltage is on the connector.
I ran a ground wire from the battery to the ground wire at the relay, no luck. I have at least 12.3 volts on both sides if the plug at the motor. I'm starting to think that this is one of those mysteries of life that we're not supposed to understand or figure out.
I ran a ground wire from the battery to the ground wire at the relay, no luck. I have at least 12.3 volts on both sides if the plug at the motor. I'm starting to think that this is one of those mysteries of life that we're not supposed to understand or figure out.
I believe Willcox was suggesting the ground be run to the motor case.
If you get the motor to run using a jumper from the pos post to the motor connection then I'm guessing you have wiring or relay issues.
A voltmeter will tell you your voltage at the connector but won't tell the amperage available. I think your losing amperage some where in the relay ,wiring or window switch. Try jumpering the relay and then operating the window switch,if that doesn't work then jumper the switch.
You should be able to narrow it down pretty quick.
Could be bad contacts in the switch, that is what was wrong with mine. It will pass 12 volts with no load but when the window motor is hooked up and you tried the switch the voltage at the motor would drop to 0. Jump out the switch and see if the windows work.
Okay, the relay has two plugs going into it. One hot with two terminals and one with one terminal which goes out to the switches. I jumped from the top terminal [which is hot] to the single that goes to the switches, and the motor worked. Does that mean that the relay is bad?
Okay, the relay has two plugs going into it. One hot with two terminals and one with one terminal which goes out to the switches. I jumped from the top terminal [which is hot] to the single that goes to the switches, and the motor worked. Does that mean that the relay is bad?
OK. Either your relay is bad or you dont have 2 incoming power wires to the relay. Im looking at a schematic for a '76 but I think there probably the same. Going into the relay you should have 12volts on a blk/org wire that is the power for the windows. Then you should also have 12volts going into the relay on a pnk/blk wire that comes from the ignition switch to pull in the relay, if you have both these then the relay is bad. If you dont have 12volts on the pnk/blk wire then you most likely have a blown fuse
Thanks Greg, I'll check the volts at both terminals, check to fuse [which I believe is that big 30 amp on the firewall], and order a new relay just to be safe. Hopefully, case closed!
The pink/black will have a 10 amp but the orange/black will have a 30-40 amp breaker.
Make sure the pink/black has voltage as Greg said with the key on AND make sure the relay itself is grounded.
When the relay "pulls in" the orange/black is connected to the red/white.
Does the relay click when the key is turned to on ?
The orange/black has 12 volts always, the pink/black has 12 volts with the key on, and the red/black has 12 volts with the key on. The case of the relay has ground continuity.
Last edited by Silver 73; Jan 30, 2010 at 09:18 PM.