If my clutch and flywheel comes in on Friday from Quartermaster, I will be putting the big block in the 69 for the very first time. In need to hear from those of you that have been there, done it, and got the t-shirt.

Should I install the trans with shifter removed and shove it back in the frame, then drop in the engine and go back under to push the trans into the clutch and finish up from underneath,

or

Should I put it all together outside of the car? Will the engine go in with the trans on and clear the welded in place cross member?

I am using the Quartermaster hydraulic release bearing, so I first have to set that up, and after I know how many shims to use, it will be in for good.

I am installing this engine.



Here is the hydraulic release bearing.




I am still updating the homepage http://mcspeed.hothomepages.com/

I am also hoping to do the test fitting, measuring etc. for my rims and tires. Right now I plan on going with the 2002 Dodge Viper tire series with Michelin Pilot Sports on 18" rims 9" wide in the front and 12" wide in the rear. That should fit nice and tight under the flares.

 

Myway,
Just curious which QMI clutch did you pick and where did you mount the extra master cylinder?? ...redvetracr

 

I've installed the engine/tranny more times than I would like to think of using every combination. My favorite is to have everything bolted up and install it as one piece. Easiest way IMHO. Note the shifter has to be installed last, can't bolt it on the tranny when you install it because it will hit the tunnel.


[Modified by 69Roadster, 7:56 PM 3/7/2002]

 

I went with the Quatermaster complete flywheel and clutch STREET application package #192150. I put a Ram race style clutch in my 90 six speed with the single mass flywheel and HATE it. So, I decided to go with a street clutch with the Quatermaster quality on the 69.

I mounted the master cylinder right under the brake master cylinder in the same hole as the stock clutch rod.

 

69 roadster is right, all in one big heavy cumbersome piece. :chevy

 

For the record, with a manual trans, always with the motor as one big heavy unit. Fitting a trans into a bellhousing/clutch plate on your back with the trans on you chest is no picnic!

Dude, love the flares, don't see many these days.

 

Is there enough room between the ground and the frame (especially the fixed into place welded trans cross member) to rotate the engine and trans as a single unit into place, or do I need to have the car jacked up high?

Also, Should I have the motor mounts on or off the block for this swing?

 

Wow, the engine looks great! I bet you can't wait to fire it up.

What's the benefit of the Hydraulic clutch? Does it substantially reduce pedal effort?

-Joe

 

I have tried to think virtually every system through on the car. The clutch is one of those. I wanted a hydraulic for smooth (engine vibration free) clutch action.

After doing some searching, the Quatermaster seemed to stay on top. I have never run one of these before, so can't predict yet how it will really work. Ford has been putting these kinds of things in production vehicles for many years. Race cars use one very much like this street version. I have great expectations that it will help tame the beast and make parade, heavy traffic, and parking lot cruising much more enjoyable.

Time will tell!

 

The higher the car the better, I've done it with the car on jack stands. Its a lower, tilt, lower, tilt, lower situation. Have the radiator support out of the car so you can come in with the motor/trans as level as possible. One other thing, if you are renting a hoist make sure you get one with a long reach and that will hold the weight with the arm extended. The front of the car is long and most rental hoists are short.

And yes have the motor mounts on the block and trans. so when it gets down you can just stuff the bolts through.

When I put the motor in my car I had all the accessories (p/s pump, alt, starter, pullies) on it because there is little room in there to bolt them up once the motor is in.

 

The clutch/flywheel assembly did not make it here today. It was suppose to be shipped from Quartermaster on 3/6. So, it looks like next weeks project. However, I am all ears to any great install techniques.

 

Thanks for the input. I decided to put it in as a unit. My wife as usually was very helpfull. I would have had a devil of a time trying to put the trans into the Lakewood from under the car. The hydraulic release bearing assembly pretty much had to be on the input shaft, and there was little room to work. So putting it together outside was really the best of all possible options. I hung the assembly from a reinforced beam in my shop attic, and we basically rolled the car into the engine as I lowered and tilted it.

My jack broke, so I could not get under and bolt up the trans.

Soon, Soon, Soon!

Thanks again,

Chris

 

 

69MyWay long time no see, where you've been man. I heard you are spending more time on the action center. I tried to page you the other day, I could use those pics you had about your a/c install. Wow that car of yours is looking good. Have any info about the seat and roll bar installion?
Jay

 

Nice Job :yesnod:

:flag

 

Jay,

Good to hear from you as well. In fact, we are doing another one of the Vintage A/C installs on my buddies 71. My other friend up in New York just finished installing his system in a 78. He did his a tad different. He made a aluminum plate and moved his under dash unit a little into the engine bay to give some more under dash room. We will tuck the 71 just like mine.

You can always reach me at

chrisnikki@juno.com

chech my homepage. I will be uploaded the Vintage Air info soon there as well.

I spend most of my time at CAC since I moderate over there. I enjoy sharing ideas and helpful suggestions at both Forums.

Let me know if I can help.

 

Thanks Chris for the input. I've been thinking about making the original AC hole bigger so I could fit the gen 2 unit through the firewall so it's half in and half out. Then make custom cover for it or something. I'll let you know, and I will visit your site as well! :cheers:

 

Jay, you are right on target. I wanted a fully smooth and shaved clean firewall giving the appearance at first glance that there is no a/c on the car (less the compressor mounted on the engine of course).

You can easily mount the larger unit and install it at about a 15 to 20 degree angle poking it out into the engine bay a tad. Then make a aluminum, stainless, or fiberglass outer cover. Worse case scenario, you will have 25% of the bulk sticking through the firewall that would normally be there with a stock a/c system. Plus, there is no way a stock system can run as efficient and easy as the VA system.

 

Hey 69Myway,

I have done the pedal conversion on my Vette from auto tol 4spd. Where did you get the Mstr cyl at, does it come in a kit?

 

Wade,

You can buy the master cylinder as a "generic" racing model from any race supply source. I don't know of a C3 kit. However, if you go to NAPA, Chevy, or any local auto parts store, you can pick up a clutch master cylinder for a 1985 1ton chevy truck. Then, you can either go to the junkyard or dealer for a resevoir and hoses as needed from the autopart store/hardware store (hard line).

On the C3, you remove the clevis pin from the clutch pedal and replace with a ball stud mount from NAPA. It will be fine thread 5/16" and bolt right into the hole where you removed the stock clutch rod pin. On the other side of the ball stud kit is a female 5/16" fine thread hole. You will put the mastercylinder through the firewall through the stock clutch rod hole. Measure the end of the clutch rod and cut if off. Get a fine thread 5/16" die and thread about 1" of the master cylinder clutch rod shaft. Now, make a quick backing plate for support, get two good quality bolts, drill the firewall to match the mount holes in the m/c and bolt it up. Now mount the resevoir above it in the driver cowl firewall area. Hook up the lines, and bleed the system. You may have to put a stop, or readjust the threaded rod as needed.

Norall did it and shared the info with me. He however ran an external slave cylinder like you would find on the same 1985 full size chevy truck.

Good luck.